Gerwalker

What was shown on the Macross 20th Anniversary DVD was in fact a standard VF-11 mislabelled. This was an on-screen error. Officially, there have been no pictures released of the VF-11MAXL or VF-16-only the VF-11MAXL Custom. The only reference relating to the VF-16 was that its engines (or a custom version of its engines) were used in the VF-11MAXL Custom. A Japanese Macross fan, JAC-san, has draw what he thinks the VF-11MAXL might look like. You can see it here at Siegfried (another Japanese Macross fan)'s homepage: http://www5.ocn.ne.jp/~sieg/vf-11maxl.html Thanks Windj... errr Nanashi!! We used to have a thread about this in the old forum. JAC-san pic is the closest thing to a non custom MAXL though I think that the legs should be more squarish (in the upper view they look like the custom Maxl but not in the other pic) I was about to convert a Bandai MAXL custom but then I convinced myself that the work would be much harder than the little kit deserves since it is not just sanding the boops but modifying the entire legs/engines. So I will finally make the pink bastard (I also have wave decals with Guvaba and all)

Ewww! ....Nooooo Sorry...But am I the only one who doesn't like Escaflowne? Melissa I'm not saying that's what I want. It's not. Although I enjoyed Escaflowne, I'm not really interested in seeing a sequel. But it is a posibility Sunrise and Kawamori will make one. Of couse, I want a new Macross TV series and just for the record, I'd like it set in the 2020-2035 period. Graham A Escaflowne sequel would be great to sell the new transformable Escaflowne model kit and the never released Yamato Escaflowne (maybe they plan to release it toghether with the new SK robot show?).

David, thanks for share. I like the VF-11 inside the hull (nobody can say that this is a not Macross related topic I have Tamiya 1/350 Yamato waiting. I'm planning to start constructing it after my weekend house is finished (next december or january ) In fact I'm planning to do more naval modelling in the new house (the wife gave me green light to use a room for my models) Maybe you would like this story: I have an architect dealing with the construction of the house and a submarine captain dealing with the papers... In fact he is not just another sub commander he was the captain of ARA San Luis (S-32) (a type 209 german build sub) during the 1982 Malvinas/Falklands war. What is even more interesting is that he is eager to tell me details of the war operations and he also likes to talk about subs!!! Onother interesting point concerning this man and crew deeds during the war was that they confirmed the fears about small diesel subs even for a specialized antisubmarine fleet such as the british during the eighties (he insists that one torpedo was able to hit a british ship) Here is a quote from a very interesting australian site LINK to Ahoy - Mac's Web Log The Royal Navy had professionalism on its side, on the flip side of the coin, the Armada Republica Argentina (ARA) lacked geninuine leadership, its lack of preparation and training were to become evident in due course. Probably the ARA Submarine San Luis was their best performer, operating within British controlled waters for over 10 days..... At 1000 (10 AM) San Luis sighted a large surface warship which could only be British , a torpedo spread was fired, but all the fish ran amok, and missed their target, although an explosion was heard, the British appeared unaware they had been under attack. Sono buoys were dropped from the Sea Kings, but no target was established, in flight fuelling was used for the first time under war conditions, a Sea King would hover astern of a frigate, pick up a fuel line with a hook, and hover for 15 minutes, during the fuelling operation, the frigate maintained its Anti-Suibmarine Warfare manoeuvers, and the chopper pilot really needed to concentrate whilst he followed the movements of his mother ship. Notwithstanding this intense search by the British ships and aircraft, San Luis remained unscathed sitting on a rocky shelf.

I think that the idea of Hasegawa was to emulate most of Bandai robot kits features: snap fit+color parts+poly caps (thank god they gave us decals instead of stickers) I theory you can construct the Battroid model in couple of hours without glue and paint and then go to the backyard to play with it

No, they are molded in white too. There is just one part molded in color: the chest (red in the battroid, blue --?-- in the super batt and yellow in the strike) BTW I hate the colored chest part since it makes painting harder.

David, that's a serious starship!! Excellent work! You should do the same they did in the series: take a pic of the lights and overlay it on a pic of the model with the lights off. You will need a tripod but It would be cool

Interesting discussion! It is always a pleassure to argue with you David. I admit that I use Micro Sol just when is needed and when possible (I strongly suggest to check first on a decal you are not going to use) I agree with you David that Micro Set alone is enough for softening fine decals such as Hasegawa decals (at least in the Battroid model). Even the minus sign decals conform to the surface after applying a little pressure. I use this technique with almost all the decals of the Hase Batt I published in the Modelersite Sci Fi section Link to modelersite. But this the case of thin and good decals which is not always the case. In other ocassions Micro Sol helps a lot. My advise for beginners: always test new techniques on test models or parts. In my experience the gloss coat is necessary if you want good results. Remember: not all the decals are the same (ever deal with old Esci decals?). Maybe an extra fine decal could adhere to a matt surface if you press it and soften with Micro Set but I think that is not a safe practice (it is more a lazy one ). Matt surfaces are very porous and it's microporosity traps air. Though I agree that a satin finish could work as well as a glossy one. I don't agree with using a bare finger for pressing decals. I always use some soft and clean material to do so. In this pic I took during the Battroid construction you can see how the Hasegawa decals conform well to the surface using just Micro Set (all the black and red markings are decals):

A modeler comment: why bother buying a transformable toy of the VE-1 to display it in fighter mode when you can have a superb and detailed Hasegawa model? I know the answer: My hase VE-1 is still in it's box while your Yamato VE-1 is already in display....oh!! if I only have time to build every model I have.

Tricky question... there is no Tamiya flat clear coat!!! There is a flat base (X-21) that is actually a paste that you have to mix with tamiya paints (clear or not) to obtain satin or matt paints. You have to experiment yourself with this stuff but it works fine for me. Always mix it with paint and never used it alone because you will get a frost effect.

1. Clear cote (Future, Tamiya, etc.) the model. 3. Cut the decal trying to remove as much of the clear carrier as you can. 4. Put it in warm water. 5. Brush a little of Microset or simmilar on the spot you want to place the decal (this solutions lowers the surface tension so the decal can descend on the model instead of float and also softens the decal's carrier) 6. Using a tweezers remove it (still on the backing paper) from water and gently touch some tissue paper with the backing paper of the decal in order to remove the water excess. 7. Place it onto the model next to the place you want the decal to be applied and gently slide the decal with a brush. 8. You can correct the decal position using the brush or other tool (never use your fingers!!) 9. press the decal with a soft and clean tissue. This will force the decal to confrom to the surface details and also removes water. If you find blisters or slivers you can punch them with a needle and press again. (some modelers use to apply microset onto the decal before pressing it) 10. Apply Microsol onto the decal. This solution dissolves the decal's carrier so it looks like painted on. The decal would shrink a little but it would return to it's original shape after drying (I use the potential would because some decals reacts badly with microsol and the like, so always experiment with a decal you are not planning to use before using this solution) 11. wash the model to remove the glue and solutions residues. 12. Clear coate again and you are ready for panneling, weathering, etc.

The flat and satin contrast idea is brillant!! First time I see it on a plane cammo. Car/bike modelers use that technique to suggest different materials even if they have the same color. For instance if the car or bike have black plastic, rubber or even metal parts painted black you can make them look as different materials by just using satin, flat and gloss finish on them. Thanks (once again) for sharing your work with us!

Because by the time it is out in Brazil..... the 4dvd edition will be out. And besides.... I don't have a R4 DVD player. Wrong Abombz!! The DVD (region 4, spanish, portuguese and english ) is out today here in Argentina and since the dvd was made in Brazil I assume that it is out there too. The extended edition of FOTR was never edited here and I'm afraid Two towers will follow the same fate.

Model Masters acrylics: I hate them!! except for the clear coatings that are really great things. Every time I tried to handbrush with this paint I got terrible results. I also found that the results also depends on the color: black paint is one of the worst. I know they have a new formulation and maybe my experience was with the old ones.

William, Another master piece from you!! Thanks for sahring! Glad to see that you finally tried buffing metallic paints going straight for the best: Alclad II As for finding the Tamiya tape (don't remember who was asking) try in HLJ-- Tamiya--supplies others (you can put a couple of rolls into your next HLJ order): Tamiya masking tape

I knida like the bizarre schemes. So much more interesting than the monotony of DYRL. I like non standar schemes too, but I prefer things like the Blue roses and so. I consider the valks as war machines (since they are so) and even more a Strike Valk!! All that bizarre markings and pink accents don't fit with a strike IMHO. Just imagine a full armed F-15E painted that way.

It looks more realistic IMHO. Also if the the transparent plastic is not flat (as the in the case of the Hasde Valk search and landing lights) there are some refraction effects that enhance the depth effect when the plastic is painted just on the inside. By the other side I use to paint navigation lights on the outside (they are ussually very small) Also all the possible paint deffects are hiden when painting this in this way. Yes I put a silver sticker inside the valk search lights. The effect is very realistic. I cut the reflector from a Bandai sticker sheet (from a 1/144 VF-11 MAXL) Those stickers look terrible when applied on a model but since they are mirror like they are useful as reflective surfaces B)

I think the legs can be positioned straight but, please: Don't ask me to pose it again!! After the photo session I had to touch up a lot of spots (as someone said in other thread --1/48 plastic model VF-1-- models are not for transforming or posing. Thanks for your comments!! I've used Gunze's acrylic clear colors and yes, I had to apply (hand brush) a couple of layers to cover the surface! I painted the inside of the transparent parts only.

Thanks Shawn for this models only section!!! An the Macross How To section is also a great idea!! i'm not a completist the way you are. I'm trying to have at least one of each mecha in the Macross universe, scale doesn't matter (that makes things a lot easier ) The problem is that not all the mecha in Macross have been represented as a scale model. And this is where scratchbuilding and/or kitbashing come in handy.

Here I am LTSO!! There is no way to go directly to my article. You must first enter modelersite and the click on the Sci-fi and ships tag: Modelersite link The legs are really poseable but the hip joint is fragile. Some of the poses shown in the article were obtained with the joint broken!! I fixed it later but is still fragile. The new hip joints in the super and strike are really better and more resistant.

Hi again! Glad to see a models only forum!!! I think that I will not buy this one. The scheme reminds me the VF-11 MAXL custom a lot... too much pink and lavander for me. <_<