Busted VF1A

To be fair AVP had great potential for being a really good movie once upon a time. When it was originally pitched it rather accuratly followed the original AVP comic story (those who have read it know how good it was), being set in the time of the original alien(s) movie(s). But stupid execs wouldn't get behind it unless it was set in modern time, on earth, and was pg-13. All bad changes that really killed it for me. From what I've read about AVP2 it's not even directly connected to the first movie... just bad... I refuse to even comment on Doom... I curse your existance to the bowels of hell for this...

I came across this while I was digging throught the web for something else. http://www.twitchfilm.net/archives/010319.html aparently Warner Brothers is actually making a Thundercats live action movie. Thats all I know aside from the churning in my gut over the concept of this...

[:SMILES EAR TO EAR]

still not even a scrap about a YF-21... [:CRIES]

Yup, that's what I thought you were talking about. They don't "snap" in place, they just have little groves that hold them in place under pressure. It looks like you have them in the correct postition for Battroid mode.

1) Not sure what you're referring to, can you provide an pic? 2)if it's the piecies I'm thinking of the're should be two little holes they fit into, but they don't "snap" into place, just kind of hold there. Again a pic would help. 3)Just detailing. I believe this is the radar assembly. 4) No idea, don't have one yet ( but I think it's snap together)

No one should panic about this. I've dealt with HLJ for a long time (10 years) and I know their MO pretty well. Whenever HLJ gets enough orders that they will sell out of their first shipment they automatically stop accepting orders. When thy do this the release/restock date switches to Future release. This indicates to people that have not place an order that they can't get one now, but there will be a restock in the future, HLJ just can't be sure when. The release/restock tags are aimed at potential buyers, not those who have already bought. HLJ tags the items as discontinued when the've gotten enough orders to take all the items they anticipate getting, and they're fairly sure they won't be getting any more after that ( usually because the manufacturer tells them so) Unless you were one of the very last people to order one of these you should still recieve your orders. If experience serves me: when HLJ recieves these and fills the orders they will make these valks available again for a very short time to clear any remaining stock that didn't go to existing orders. So there will be a chance to get these close to the restock date, but it will be really short and you'll need to be lucky. Last confirmed info I had from HLJ was a September Restock for both Max and Milia.

I'm so torn on that one. I really want the SV-51 and want Yamato to focus on making sure it is well worth the wait and the price tag (we won't go into the cost ot my mental health), but at the same time I still like the yf-21 more and would be totally thrilled if Graham came back with offical info on it... like a planned release date. If the 21 is coming out by the end of this year the next few months is when we'd likely start hearing about it right? doesn't Yamato tend to start leaking info about 6 month ahead of the planned release dates? Thats been my experience with the yf-19, vf-0a, ghost and sv-51.

I just ordered a couple of these myself. I've seen them here on MW before and always thought they were much better than the Yamie Valk stands. Glad I can finally get some for myself.

Actually I think the valks are gonna be 1/200 at best in the revoltech line, so if they make destroids I would bet about the same scale. Revoltech is a very small scale line.

The Revoltech Line is awesome. Small but increadibly detailed and the best posability of any line. But they tend to styalize alot...

Diecast, like everything else in the world, is not indesructable. But Diecast is stronger than POM, POM is stronger than ABS. So among those choices I'll be quite happy with Diecast joints. Besides, it's more likely that the POM/ABS parts directly attached to the hinges will break before the diecast does. What I want is machined billet aluminum parts (aircraft grade), but that might be overkill on a toy

Actually when I got home last night I did a comparison to what I was workign on ( I knew this looked way better than the one I was working on) Who produced this Hi-Nu kit? The one I'm working on is bandai's craptacular MG rendition.

LOL, I'm working on the same poor representation of the Hi-Nu Gundam as well. But I only have the inner frame rough fitted so far (the heads not even attached). I'm planning alot of mods for the body and the funnel "wings" to make it look a little better, but it's on hold right now while I work on my Kaempfer. I need to post some images here... Image Quote Removed

you can use pin-striping mask tape, it just a small roll of very narrow masking tape that has a kind of rubbery flexible backing. It can make some pretty tight curves and most hobby stores carry it. run a line of this along the curve to create your smooth edge, then cover the area behind with regular mask. Just make sure the regular mask touches the pin-stripe to cover completly. That way you get a nice clean edge. you can also use automotive pin-striping mask the same way. This is the easiest way if you're unsure about yor skills. Its fairly easy to work with. Others have already mentioned cutting your mask to the shape you need and the liquid mask.

OMFG, I hadn't even thought of that. Now THAT IS skill

ROTFLMAO How in the world did he get the fast packs on inside-out? Now that's skill

I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed yet but HLJ pushed their restock date back from July to September. Looks like I'll have a little more time to save for these then.

Actually I think it's the other way around and the wrong terms to use. First you create a prototype, then you make the test type for testing (obviously). But all versions of a plane are considered experimental until its proving runs are completed and is put into production. As for the YF, I thought it was to desgnate that they were test types and not production (VF) types. Could be wrong.

Sweet.

*wipes off shoes and throws drool soaked towel at Valkyrie addict* Are we sure this is a prodiuction sample? It looka a little mis-aligned at the joints, like a resin kit might be. And I could swear I saw an SV-51 pic from another show where the gun pod was missing as well. Still, it looks pretty sweet, but needs to be a little tighter for the final version.

A number of Jetfire's way back when ( I think I was 6 when I got my first one) and a busted VF-1A I found at a garage sale a few years later. My current collecting was rekindled by a Mospheda Ride Armour (Blowsperior) injection kit made by....Imai I think, not really sure. Come to think of it that was the first kit I ever used an airbrush on... with limited success. But I still have it.

My realistic scheme would have to be Primary Black, Dark Grey secondary, and alternating Black or grey markings (depending upon which color the marking lay on). I mean, its space, why make your valk easy to spot in combat? And since in Macross the squads tend to be made up of 4 valks I would have to say the squad title would be Horsemen. But actually I would go with a light electric blue, with white leading edges and yellow trim and a blue dragon emblem on the fins and heat shield. This is based on a dragon avatar I use in alot of my creations. Now since my fiancee is sitting right here and want's to be heard too, she would have Grey valk, with Purple seconday and pewter trim. and the canopy will be amber, like the SV-51's

LOL, I just got my inspiration for my next custom

I use primarily Tamiya acrylics so I can only speak to those. For thinning a good Isopropol Alchol will work wonders. The higher the alchol percentage the faster the dry time, which can help you adjust for whatever application your using. And it alot cheaper then the model specific stuff Tamiya sells. Down side is that it tends to dull gloss and high gloss finishes, since it doesn't give the paint enough time to smooth out before it dries and leaves a kind of semi gloss surface. I've also found that your decals will sometimes 'silver' a little on this surface just like on matte paint. When painting Gloss I always use the Tamiya thinner, but only for the gloss. as most others have said, Future Floor Acrylic, thinned with alchol is the best top coat. you can mix it with Tamiya Flat Base ( experiment on the ratios for what you like, I prefer a 3:1 ratio) for a dull coat. For clean up regular 409 works great. Mix it about 70/30 with distilled water to clean you airbrush. Remeber to run pure distilled water through your brush after that, the 409 solution will mess up your paint job if theres any left inside when you spray your next color.