Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0

Oh HELL YEAH they can! I just hope they will. Not all of the returning characters need new molds. Bumblebee doesn't. Characters such as Starscream, and Jazz do. Starscream was a fun toy, but definitely could have been executed much better, with the design not changing much(if at all) this time around, there was more time to make an accurate figure this time around, which I hope Hasbro did. Jazz was the most disappointing figure that I bought in the movie line, even moreso than Swindle. The range of motion on the knees was heavily hindered to the point of disappointment, the lack of appropriate forearms was very obvious, and the arm articulation overall wasn't great.

To be fair, Hasbro and Takara had to work off of character designs that weren't even finished. This time around, the character designs of returning characters were already finished, hence the higher accuracy. Now I seriously hope Starscream has been completely redesigned as well.

Starscream deserves a leader figure more than Brawl because: A-He has far higher brand recognition B-He survived in the film C-He will play a prominent role in ROTF. D-Jets sell. E-As much as I like the 2007 movie toy, it is dated, and does not match up to what we see onscreen, unlike the dlx Bumblebee remold that we saw a while back with new head/cannon. Starscream's robot mode onscreen has skinnier legs, more weaponry, and is more slender, and we all know how inaccurate the F-22 mode on the 2007 toy is.

I hope that Starscream gets an all new, far more accurate, sleeker, kibbleless, larger pricepoint figure this time around. I don't care if the other seekers like Ramjet or Skywarp are repaints of the 1st movie molds, just make Starscream all new this time around!

Thanks man, I appreciate the offer, but I'll decline, the thrill of the hunt still excites me.

It would help with the forearms, everything else that is diecast can stay the same without affecting anything. The diecast forearm part on the right arm of my Aoshima flops around under it's own weight, when it is supposed to stay in the forearm. If made out of plastic it could hold up much better and also wouldn't weigh down the arms, wouldn't eventually wear down tension at the shoulders.

I bought Cheetor recently, not as bad as I imagined he would be, but flawed nonetheless. The cat arm kibble in robot mode hinders articulation for the arms, not just on the elbows, but shoulders, as the arms cannot be placed parallel to the body due to the kibble. The cat mode is excellent, except for the plate that folds to show a maximal symbol in robot mode, it seems like an afterthought in cat mode. I wish there was a way to keep the eyes red without opening the mouth, it is neat to see the color change, but ultimately I prefer being able to keep the eye red without pulling back a lever. Poseability is decent, I like the ninja stars, but don't like how the ninja stars cannot be held securely in the hands. I can see what the designers were aiming for by making a sleek, slender robot mode, but I prefer the thicker, more balanced look of the original.

They should switch to a newer factory and use no diecast in the forearms. The diecast in the legs is okay provided that the hip ratchets from the Aoshima are used. There is no point inf having diecast in the forearms as it only weighs the arm down. Also make the bicep joints out of hard plastic, and use swappable fixed pose hands instead of the crumbling movable hands that it came with. What I found disappointing about both the CMs Legioss and Aoshima Legioss that I have, is that they balance each other out. What is wrong on one, is not a problem on the other. What is problematic on one is a blessing on the other. I wasn't expecting this at all. I was expecting one to completely outdo the other. I prefer the Aoshima's proportions in armo soldier mode, it is big, bulky, and powerful in appearance. Yet I prefer the CMs in armor fighter mode, sleek, reminds me of a mechanized airplane derived from the A-4, MIG-29, and F/A-18, all three of which I like. Durability is definitely better on the CMs yet pieces such as the wings and arms are secured much better in fighter mode on the Aoshima. The most disappointing thing about the CMs Legioss is that it simply does not lock together well in fighter mode, because there aren't pieces that lock the arms and wings to the main body at all! They remain in position solely by the friction of their connection joints, yet are extremely easy to knock out of position, if you are a guy like me that swooshes the fighter mode around. Hands on both have problems, the Aoshima hands look like they will fall apart eventually, and are rag dolls at the wrist. Mine cannot stay in position with the gun in hand. The CMs has much more durable hands but poor grip, that gunpod is not held securely at all on mine, in fact it reminds me of the old 1/100 HG Gundam kits that had no pegs to secure the weapons to the hands. Those hands did a terrible job. I have since given the gunpod to my CMs Tread, which does a much better job of holding the gunpod. However I hope this does not change, but worried that it may eventually. Have any of you found a way to keep the gunpod gripped well in the CMs Legioss' hands? If you have, I'd love to know. The mini-missle doors open much better on the CMs Legioss, it's like a hot knife through butter. I love how the missle tips are more pronounced rather than just the painted flat circles on the Aoshima. On the CMs the arms are much easier to extend when going to soldier mode, with no fear of breaking, and made of durable material. Not so on the Aoshima, I don't know why anyone thought it was a good idea to make the bicep joints out of soft plastic, as well as using diecast in the forearm, and making the arm to shoulder connection to tight, which could lead to the bicep joint snapping off when extending the arms for transformation. On the CMs, this process is very smooth. Articulation and range of motion is better on the CMs, except for the lack of a neck joint, which is annoying. The Aoshima can be put into some great poses, but not in more dynamic positions than the CMs. Range of motion on the elbows & knees for the CMs is better too. The CMs does not have a place to lock in the wings in soldier mode, the Aoshima does but the wings do not lock into the nose very well.

I think it is there just for diecast presence. After handling my Aoshima, I've noticed that the diecast is self defeating in the arms, on the right arm, the forearm piece does nothing but fall under it's own weight, swinging freely, which also brings the arm down if I have it posed aiming high. It does not help at all that the forearm uses tension to stay in place. The diecast in the legs is fine, it adds good heft and does nothing detrimental.

Hey how are the shoulders holding up on your Shadow MPC? Is the gun heavy enough to weigh down the arms(aside from the diecast in the forearm which really does not even need to be there).

Speaking of Tomcat.... Anyone going to buy this?

Actually this is quite easy for me now, I have never done any web videos, but if I took pics, maybe it would be easier to pull off. It literally only takes me 3 seconds or less to pop that bar out of the nose hatch when going to battroid mode. THANK YOU GRAHAM! I really appreciate that. If they are made out of POM I might go ahead and get the 1J and early bird the 1D for my birthday. I have a feeling that the 1J is the first to have POM shoulder hinges, the 1A doesn't look like it. To be honest, I would just swap out the 2nd shelf items for the new 1/60 VF-1 toys, and then swap out the Doyusha's/GNU on the third shelf for the new 1/60 VF-1. That way, everything on the 3rd shelf is in scale. With the 2nd shelf, who knows, Yamato went back and redesigned the 1/60 VF-1, who says they won't do the same for the QRau? Also, the TV QRau is in demand, not to mention has different parts, justifying a new mold(that and I heard the DYRL Qrau toys are a bit floppy). I would put the WHAM SDF-1 with your 5th shelf which already has Wave products. If you wanted to clear out more, I would get every Toynami Legioss out except for one that you might want to combine with a Tread/Beta MPC. Then store away the 1/48 Votoms toys. Hell on the 4th shelf, I would take down any broken arm VF-0 toys, and just swap them for new 1/60 VF-1 toys. That way, everything is still the same scale, and you can display them as a "bridging the gap" display, from VF-0 to VF-1. The 1/60 battroids might not seem like they have much more articulation than the 1/48, but the truth is, it locks together more solidly and can be posed in much more dynamic positions.

I love these toys too, the shoulder hinge is just one flaw that is irritating. Everything else is fine, removing the hip bar from the nose cone isn't even that hard anymore. I like my 1/60 much more than my 1/48, which in comparison, is a floppy mess. The 1/48 has a longer nose and more durable shoulder hinges, but that's about it.

Well it's way too hard to be PVC.

There pricing may eventually become competitive too. Competition is great.

ABS on the Roy 1S that was released months ago, probably the same for the 1A, the new 1S Roy/Hikaru & 1J Hikaru might have POM.

It might very well be, I noticed that in the picture you posted next to the old 1/60, the shoulder armor and pieces are distinctly brighter than the rest of the arm pieces, which are in an off white/light grey.

I hope they slow down, and take more time to ensure that the quality control of their products is superb. Innovation is canceled out by fragility. They have clear winners on their hands provided that they are sturdy. With the v2 1/60 VF-1 they are so close, just need to fix the hinges. Agreed. I think Yamato should go by this; when in doubt, use POM.

The nose has to be pushed up. You will see slits on the side, below the black stripe, near where the head rests in fighter mode. You have to push the nose section up until the slits are no longer visible, a plate on the chest slides into those slits. Then make sure the swing bar is parallel to the backplate, it can angle and you can feel a detent which locks it into position, make sure the bar is aligned with the backplate and not at an angle when getting the hip bar in.

Movie Toy News!

Looks like the guy cut a piece of either the base of the head, or the neck piece on the 25S to make the head stand out.

When I say 1J, I refer to Hikaru's VF-1J, the Vermillion team one with red and white. Are you referring to the reissue Roy that came out this month and Hikaru's VF-1J, or his VF-1S? The hinges on my Roy 1S(1st release) were ABS and could flex. We thought it was, but found out later it didn't matter. Someone had a 1A break, both hinges with the burr ends facing downwards. No, it has everything to do with it. The 1/48 never had reported shoulder hinge breakages, similar design, except that it is stationary. Made of POM. No breakages. Had it been ABS? You can bet there would have been breakages. They can, they have made changes before. 1/72 YF-19 1.5 had fixed Tab B parts. 1/72 VF-11B w/FAST packs had fixed hips. 1/60 VF-0S w/GHOST had fixed arms. It certainly isn't POM. POM is used on the 1/48 shoulder hinges and there is a distinct difference in feel, and appearance. Also, jenius has a 1J with no breakages and the pins are facing opposite directions. Not if the hinges break. If it is POM(which I am really, really hoping for as Hikaru is one of my favorite characters and his 1J is combat relevant), then I will buy that, the VF-1D and more. For the VF-0, no, we got our info either via Graham, or indirectly through Over Drive. The first time Graham asked, Yamato told him that there were no reported breakages from Japanese customers. For the 1/72 YF-19, Yamato went as far as to make a 1.5, I forgot if it was marked on the box but I do remember that there was a way to tell before buying. u know it just occured to me that all of the 1/60's released so far are flown by Hikaru. I mena the 1S is roys, but was also I heard that hero characters in Japan are typically shown with red and white colors for costumes, mecha, or vehicles. Isamu, Hikaru, Alto, Sylvie, and Basara all had red, Shin had it on his helmet.

Me too

Now you know exactly why I want to see the shoulder hinges fixed.

That guy also bent the knees further back than previously seen