Shin Densetsu Kai 7.0

The hip bars click into the place on the gray parts aft of the head and in front of the shoulders.

Damn that VF-1J looks delish. See Eriku the other reason I lost some love for the Toynami 1/100's is because mine look like your 1S pictured; they are in pieces. Cracked polycaps=loose connection, loose enough to fall off onto the carpet and get lost for months. The best thing about the 1/100's by Toynami was the use of ABS and the design overall looked good, it was plenty fun to pose in battroid and the price was good. However the VF HI METAL seems to fix every qualm I had with the Toynami 1/100's and outdo it. I am itching to find out if the inevitable VF-1S will have able to conceal the head well in fighter mode. Every transformable VF-1S to date always has the visor(if even just a bit), peeking out. Will VF HI METAL be the 1st to break this tradition? Tentative purchase list for me might be VF HI METAL Blazer and 1J. Definitely looking into the 1S and 1A brownie since we know those are inevitable just hope Tamashii doesn't webshop the latter and make it exclusive.

The noses don't droop on my VF-0A/S, I'm guessing that no 2 VF-0A/S reissues from this year are the same, as everyone seems to have different situations with theirs. I will try that step you suggested about pushing the leg forward to free the calve locking tabs.

What I did on my Super VF-1A Hikaru and VF-1J Hikaru was pulled the intakes straight down. You actually don't need that much room, it will only go down a few centimeters if any. The culprit isn't so much the narrow tab that plugs into the side, it's the square peg atop the intake that is too tight due to the diecast plate above being painted on the area that the peg plugs into(sorry for the run on sentence).

Just wanted to add, I found 2-4 stress marks recently. Just on my VF-0A, found nothing on my VF-0S. Both are reissues from this year. As much as possible, when transforming the legs to gerwalk/battroid mode, twist the lower leg inwards while bending it down. It is shown in the instruction manual too. You want as less pressure on the 2 connection tabs(the ones on the backplate that plug into the back of the lower legs in fighter mode) as possible. Those 2 pegs have stress marks around them on mine. Ideally, it should not take much to dislodge the lower legs from those tabs. I found that by twisting the lower legs inwards while trying to bend them down/forward, and/or pushing the lower legs inwards a bit to clear the tabs, works best. I tried this a bunch of times last night and the tabs/pegs did not break off. I suspect they won't but just wanted to give you guys a heads up anyways. The stress marks definitely came from the dislodging of the pegs, because I noticed the backplate bending a bit if I tried to dislodge the lower legs without pushing the legs inwards a bit. The stress is coming from the tension, the plate is not supposed to bend much if at all. While the aforementioned tabs have stress marks, the clips that hold the swing bar in fighter mode(aft of the head) might have stress marks in the middle. Now this one I don't really know how to rectify, I imagine that maybe the paint around the bar might be too thick and add more tension. Adding some Krazy Glue on the areas surrounding the backplate pegs, and on the middle of the clips that secure the hip bar in fighter mode may help, but I'm going to wait and see if the marks develop further into cracks. I think mine are okay for now, but I'm buying some Krazy Glue just in case.

I think if you contact Over-drive they might be able to help, but I'm not sure if they still do their parts replacement program.

If you turn the gun hands upside down in fighter mode, can they still stay on? Dynamic crouching poses and poses showing the limits of articulation in battroid/gerwalk modes.

Jazz and all nearly all of the figures mentioned(except for Mindset), are ALL Generations/Classics 3.0! Jazz is said to be very close to a Porsche without actually using the Porsche design. Classics, both actually use the Henkei molds by TakaraTomy.

The Conquesticon Terradive is going to be repainted with a new head as someone else later on, might buy 2 of that, 1 to turn into a Conquest X-30 repaint.

That's all you might need to do, you might not need to shave off any of the plastic on the intake pegs.

What most likely ended up happening was that the paint on the diecast plate(that the intake pegs peg into) was not completely dry when the factory workers put the VF-1 together and plugged the intake pegs into it. This results in stuck parts, happens a lot on action figures("stuck joints"). This happened to my VF-1A Super Hikaru. With that one I learned to just pull the intake straight down/out of the diecast plate, just a bit. On my Focker 1S and a few of my other V2's, simply moving the lower leg inwards with the legs in gerwalk mode does the trick, as the diecast area is not as tight. This is how it's shown in the manual too.

The easiest way for them to alleviate the issue would be to not paint the entire diecast plate that the intake pegs plug into, or at least not paint the area that it plugs into. Inevitably the paint from that area scratches off anyways.

I think the best Jetformer in Transformers this year will be the Conquesticon, Terradive. More kibble than Dirge(Dirge is actually pretty cool in the movie line), but intakes aren't as big and I like the alt mode a lot. Wondering if the repaint with new will be Strafe...the G2 Cyberjet. I'd settle for Dogfight, Depth Charge(head sculpt looks similar) or even Cyclonus.

The 1/48 had more clearance for the peg, but in doing so, was more prone to misalignment of the intakes. Still, I prefer that to the V2 1/60's peg/socket section above the intakes. With the V2 1/60, you can angle/push the lower leg inwards from the side to help dislodge the intake peg. If it is too tight, grab the sides of the intakes and gently pull straight out. Scraping some of the paint off from the cutout part of the diecast plate that the peg plugs into may alleviate the tension, as that's what makes the connection tighter than it has to be.

Both.

http://www.tfw2005.com/transformers-news/transformers-generations-classics-30-35/more-new-toys-from-botcon-hasbro-display-170058/ Highbrow's alt mode= Uh...WHUT>?!

I should have worded it differently. Can you transform the toy without swapping out the canopy for the heatshield? I don't mind having the canopy show..I was used to it on the 1/55's and didn't mind that at all. Also, can it still be transformed without retracting the hands, and can the gun hand be kept on(unretracted) in fighter mode? I hate keeping track of parts, so I'm trying to figure out if I can just transform the sucker without swapping/removing parts at all. Are there extra parts needed to mount the gunpod in fighter mode?

Was transformation pretty easy? Also, the retractable right hand, can it hold the gunpod without parts swapping? Is the heat shield necessary for transformation? Just wondering, don't mind if the chestplate is loose without it in battroid mode. I've become a battroid mode guy as I grew older, I love posing battroids(I love all modes really, but battroid is fun because it's the most poseable of all). This figure looks like straight up toy crack. I also think it is expensive, but there is a ton of small parts tooled for just this 1 release, so, to me, most of the price can be justified.

I think it's different plastic. Yamato stated previously that the 1st releases from a few years ago broke due to an unforseen chemical reaction. So far, no one who has a reissue has reported a breakage, and my 0A/S reissues have held up fine during transformation and posing. The VF-0A box has no window/flap, and has an image of the VF-0A in Rabbit shoutai markings, in fighter mode. On the back, Rabbit shoutai markings are scene in all 3 modes. Marking sheet does not come with the Wolfpack markings of the original release, just Skull/Rabbit shoutai.

Just a heads up, the tints on V2 1/60 VF-1 valks are different on some. IIRC not all of them share the same type of tint.

Yep, that's all for wave 1. In addition to Darkmount, Straxus; Blurr, there are: Red Alert WFC Megatron WFC Soundwave DIRGE!: http://www.tfw2005.com/transformers-news/conventions-15/tfw2005-botcon-2010-coverage-generations-and-hunt-for-the-decepticons-figures-170049/

Well for me, I had high hopes for the DX, and my disappointment does not come from being spoiled by Yamato. The DX Messiah is just a disappointing toy. You have some SOC qualities like some very durable plastic(aside those hinges that broke on the Messiahs of fellow members here), and some good heft due to diecast. Yet you have easily scratched off tampo printed markings, joints that are prone to looseness, and limited range of motion. The 27 addresses many of the issues I have with the DX 25 but I have yet to buy one. Oh, and I hate how the hands go limp under the weight of the gun. The shoulder area is ugly too. All of us expected an SOC-quality toy; sure we knew it wasn't going to be completely accurate, but it should have been on par with an SOC in the least. Far cry from the DX 1/65 Macross 7 toys, but far cry from being a good VF-25 toy too.

I don't know, if the 0A used the old molds, I think we would have had exploding arms by now, but we haven't on the reissues, ditto for the 0S. I think the 0S was on sale at HLJ because a lot of fans wanted the 0A more; this is the 1st time that the 0A has been reissued solo, whereas Focker's 0S was reissued 2 years ago and bundled with the Ghost pack.

Looks great to me, best battroid mode I've seen on any transforming VF-1 toy so far. Has that dynamic styling akin to the transforming revalktech without the compromised alt modes. The optional parts are cool but man I wish the box was smaller and more contained. I hate plastic trays like that where nearly every part can fly out if you tilt the tray at an angle.

I can confirm that they are in VA as I got my set yesterday and a fellow member got nearly all of the rest today(just 1 set and another Thrust after I left). Bumblebee is EXCELLENT, one of the best Bumblebee figures ever made EXCEPT for the transformation. Do you miss shellformers? It reminds me a lot of RID, but the RID car bros weren't as much as a PITA to transform. I thought I had it down, then come to find the plates off by a few cm's. Some stress marks on the port that one of the pegs plugs into. Alt mode is great...getting there..no. Prime is cool but I think he ought to have been a voyager. Bumblebee is bigger than him. Have not transformed Prime yet. Fun to pose. Very detailed. Thrust is good and even has chrome(cockpit)! Overall quality is great. Glad to finally have him. Drift is decent, feels more like a Classics 1 figure which may or may not appeal to some of you. The simplest figure of wave 1. Hidden weapons are great, shoulder kibble gets in the way. Worth getting but I think the Drift retool may be better.