anime52k8

god damn you, now I'm going to have to re-watch all of Nadesico...

it should be, accept that I've got a laptop and non of the ASCII commands work for me.

in either episode 21 or 22 (somewhere around there, right before they introduced the VF-171EX) several CF's are shown with the leg armor from the super packs attached but without the main boosters.

right now I've got two VF-25F's, and one I'm going to build as alto. but the other one I'm feeling a little crazy, and I'm going to try and paint it up like this: I'm also thinking about making a pair of delta wings for it. anyone happen to know of some good tools/tutorials for scribing panel lines? (I've tried it before, usually with little success relative to the amount of headache/frustration.) any help/advice on scratch building (or if you think you can talk me out of it) please speak up.

you know what it was, it was the half fast packs. and the CF VF-25's are identical to the VF-25G accept for the lack of sniper rifle. (so would they be VF-25A's, or VF-25G's as well?)

lets see, the GM02, being lacquer, is less likely to be messed up by handling once it dries (if you don't clear coat it this would be a concern). but, being a lacquer mean it will be harder to fix if you make a mistake (lacquer dries quick and once it dries it's hard to safely remove it), but because of the fine, hard tip it's easier to avoid going outside the lines. the GM21, being acrylic, is easier to clean up if you make a mistake. and because of the soft tip you will get a lot of excess paint, but it's no big deal since you just need to dampen a tissue and wipe away the excess. obviously though acrylic will be much easier to mess up if you handle it. which is why most people go over it with an acrylic clear coat. if you don't want to clear coat, I'd say get the GM02 and take your time.

here's my personal experience. the General rule of thumb is as David explained it (lacquer is the strongest, fallowed by enamel, then acrylic) but there are some exceptions. first, sometimes you can get away with enamel coats over acrylic. if the acrylic is ABSOLUTELY dried AND cured. once an acrylic paint is completely cured, enamel usually won't be enough to damage it, usually. another point to make is that not all lacquers are created equal. for instance Tamiya lacquer (both primer and colors that they sell in rattle cans) --- while hotter than any enamel or acrylic hobby paint --- isn't as hot as automotive lacquer. putting real automotive lacquer over a tamiya/Mr. Color lacquer will have about the same effect as spraying tamiya lacquer over tamiya enamel (i.e. bad). and then there's testors/model masters clear Lacquer. Don't ask me why this is but for some reason you CAN to spray model Masters/Testors clear Lacquer over model masters/testors enamel. this works about the same as spraying enamel over acrylic. if the enamel paint is 100% cured and dried, you can spray the clear lacquer over it and not have any problem.

are these pics supposed to make these look more impressive/less sucky? if so it's not working

i meant to say O, as in the O in Koning, I want to know how to type the umlauts over the o so it's actually spelled correctly.

these two are by far the best, I think the Koning monster (how do I get the farting dots over the U) looks a bit better and more accurate, but it does help that the VA-6B is an inherently boxy design, (and the uniform Grey color looks cool)

I liked the robotech credit role. (I don't care what anyone says the opening BGM was better)

It's just SVD, or Dragunov sniper rife. not "SVD Dragunov" the D in SVD stands for Dragunova so your basically saying "Sniper Rifle Dragunov Dragunov" ok, I'm done being anal now.

OMG, ME WANT O.O

I'll just have to keep an eye out for when it pops up then. (macross take precedence over queen's blade)

which engine are you talking about by the way? the 1mm micro rotary engine there working on at Berkley, or the one that's a cube with a spiral channel cut into it that acts as a combustion chamber? (name of that one escapes me completely)

NO!!!! missed Sheryl again... now I'm going to be checking overdrive every 5 minutes until it comes back (if it comes back.... ) at least I got klan. by the way, does anyone know if/how you can cancel an order for an in stock item from HLJ? I just put in the order today so it's not even in their system yet... crap I'm going to be so broke... (if anyone's willing to part with a Sheryl figure, I'd gladly pay you for it)

something odd I noticed. the little blisters on the top of the 25F's head (in the black painted section) appear to be hinged for some reason. I have no idea why. anyone care to venture a guess?

Really, That's what you got from the pic? couse to me it looks like they could have made the landing gear at least 50% longer and doubled the diamitar of the tire if they just had the gear rotate and then fold (like on the 1/60 YF-21) and that without changing the leg at all. had they made the extending portion of the leg a little shorter, there would have been even more room, and you wouldn't have the stupid Urkel look. way to be lazy bandai ugh. I'm feeling nauseated just looking at these...

I get a little satisfaction out of beating him to the link.

that's kind of what I was trying to say.

it should go here: http://macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=27475 now, IBTL

nitpicking, loudmouthed freaks only when it comes to toys.

in after IBTL.

...and the VF-0 was an older aircraft. more modern valks have stronger airframes and presumably can handle transformation at higher speeds and during more intense maneuvers..