kkx

I read up on different techniques and end up trying the safest. I use pastel chalk. It is very easy to work with and erorr prove. Since you can just wash it off with water and redo if you make a mistake. The chalk is cheap too, I bought a few standard weathering colors chalk bar for just a few pounds. Just shave the bar into powder using an old knife and mix some water and washing liquid (to help bind the powder together once dried).

Thank you guys for the encouraging remarks. This is indeed my first model. I did spend a lot of time to try to get things right, it took me over 5 months (with many disasters on the way) to build that. The pictures are "not very good" in the sense that it hide a lot of imperfection. The real things look worst then what the pictures imply. I mainly screwed up on the use of Future floor polish. I tried to airbrush it on, but that didn't works too well. And I turned to use hand brush. After many layers, the finishing is very bad. It looks grainy and uneven. It is quite hard to see from the pictures. Sorry to dispel everyone's good regards but here is some pictures I have taken just now to shows what I mean. But in general I am quick happy and did enjoy building the kit. From a reasonable distant, it looks great (I know many people here don't like the nora's strange colour scheme, but it looks very striking and aggressive to me). The final result give me great satisfaction. I have bought some super clear from the mr. color range and will try that in my next build to see if it is going to be easier to work with that Future.

a few more pics

completed this a while back. I appreciate that advises from people in this forum when I was stuck with some difficulties. This is my first model and the result is not that great, I am working on a VF-0S battroid now. Here is some pictures to share. My camera skill is also not that good.

I have no experience on decal printing. But I have access to color laser printer. I have been thinking of trying to print off some decal to see if it will works well. But I am yet to find a good source to buy one or two peices of clear decal paper for laser printer. I have recieve warning from Anasazi about laser printing being non-opaque. Especially if the paint color on the model is a brighter color then the decal color.

I am planning to use decal from some old/new bandai 1/100 macross kits. So far I have found kits that contain the macross symbol and "U.N. SPACY" but still have no luck with the which skull and cross bone, no step, some yellow arrow and the "101" letter.

Ok, thanks. Will try to look for some 1/100 decal for this.

Receive this kit today, but found that there is no decal sheet. Just wonder if any decal is included in the kit. If anyone owns this kit, a confirmation on this will be very much appreciated. Any idea where to buy the 1/100 replacement decal for the VF-4 ?

Got mine today. Never done resin kit before. Will be a long time before I could improve my skill to a level that can handle this kit. Thanks Ken.

As for as I know, GSI kureosi == GSI Gunze Is it possible that Kureosi is the romanise pronunciation of Gunze ? Gunze Sangyo is a name I seen people uses also to refer to the same company. As Sketchley said, the black box numbers are the reference for the lacquer based paint from Gunze. The white box numbers are for the water based range from the same company. Here is some charts for the Gunze water based paint: http://www.plastikmodell.de/html/gunze_color_chart.html Can't seems to find the lacquer chart.

Maybe the intructions from the hase kit will be a good reference. You can find the scan at: http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models..._65755_vf1d.htm The model section is not as complete as we all hope but I often find useful material there.

No problem at all. The model page is a big help for me. It is a good place to get some info when I plan to buy Hasegawa kits. I wish it can be more complete. Is there anything I can do to help to fill in some info for some of the kits ? I have some of the kits, so maybe I can provide some scans or something.

I am trying to build the super 1J of both Max and Miria (or Millia ? wonder which is the correct name for her?)version. So, I will need 2 set of these for figther and battroid mode: VF-1A Super Valkyrie # 65704 VF-1A Super Battroid Valkyrie # 65713 And if I am felling brave, I will need another two sets for gerwalk conversion....... Sounds too ambitious for a newbie like me. Thanks for the info and the gerwalk conversion thread is also very useful. I feel a bit more confident with a step by step to fall back on. Thanks Chas.

Thanks Chas. So trying to build the super VF-1J (for max and miria) using the 65705 or 65717 will not be possible? Does the 65717 have the J sprue for the J head too? If not, I must try to find some J head for fighter mode (maybe steal/borrow it from my other VF-1J hase kit).

I wonder if anyone know if there is any different between: 65705 VF-1S Strike Valkyrie and 65717 VF-1S Super/Strike Valyrie The model section info said that the 65705 only have one micro missile launcher, so it can be build only as strike but not super. But I checked page 2 of the instruction, there is clearly 2 micro missile launchers in the parts diagram. If anyone have both kits, could you help with some details? Thanks

It is good to hear all this good things about the kit and that so many of you have got yours. Damn, I can't wait to see mine, and see for myself how good this is. Any pictures (of your test fitting etc) to quench my curiosity?

Good to know that. Good luck!

Here is another possible recast: http://www.e2046.com/product_info.php?products_id=6744

Ken, If you are planing to mold these two pieces, I can loan my Q-15. I now nothing about mold, but if add one extra piece is not a big problem, then I happy to help. Can't leave cokefiend without his missing piece. PS: Rob posted a kit from Japan for me the other day. So I got the impression that he is still in Osaka. My mistake.

Missing part for valkyrie13 is Q-16 and cokefiend want Q-15. If you live in Japan, you can cut the cupon from the instruction sheet and order a replacement spruce. Sadly, I don't live in Japan. I am sure there are MWF member who live in Japan (samuraimonkey for one). I have some friends there, I could try to help, but the 3 ways arrangement will be a bit complicated. I do have a VF-0D kit, I could be pursuaded to sacrify the Q-spruce. I will not build this kit for a long while and I can try to order the replacement when I visit Japan in the future.

That bottle looks like a general household laundry bleach. So I will try one that have sodium hypochlorite. I have the same kit (just recieve it yesterday). Thanks nomalbill for sharing this, it is a big help. English is hard for me too. But you have lots of picture, a "picture" can be a thousand words.

Sorry to go off topic here for a bit. Ken, do you know if all the 1/48 VF-1 from hobbyfan is by G-System ? The reason I ask is I brought one the other day and was wondering if it is by G-System (still waiting for the kit to arrive). BTW, did the cheque clear ok?

Swanny's said that in UK it is called "Johnson Klear". I found it in ASDA, I am sure the other supermarket stock them too.

Hi Devin, Just like to join in and say thanks for the minmay guard decals. Best of luck with your phD. Regards, kk PS: this is a bit off topic, but following from the discussion above regarding samual decal. I have just contacted them (to buy some virgin road decal) and I ask them if we provide the scan, are they willing to print decal set for us. I know many of us here need decal for 1/48 custom (and I myself might need one set for my UD VF-1), that is why I asked him. He said that he can do it if we provide 600dpi scans. Seems like a posibility. Not sure how much he will charge, but if we pool our order together, maybe we can get a good deal. I have never buy from them before this, so not sure what sort of quality they give (hopefully as good as Devin's).

If you are looking for 1/72 (both v1 and v2 minmay guard) decal, you can find them in ebay. I got two for myself, still waiting for them to arrive, so can't tell you how is the quality compared to Anasazi's (got one set from him a while ago). Just do a search at ebay using "macross decal".