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mslz22

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Everything posted by mslz22

  1. My target would be mid to late spring, figure May or so, one other thing that i did not mention in the other thread was that i plan on this kit having a very detailed engine compartment..... thanks for starting the thread ALPHAHX mike
  2. mslz22

    Monster

    It would be a total scratchbuild, like Jesse said the Konig is a different scale, and to use any parts from the existing 1/72 kit is not really wise, it is pretty inaccurate and, again, the weight is borderline silly......I've daydreamed up a plan on how to go about the building and casting, if we get enough people on board i will (once i catch up on some other stuff) set aside a couple of weeks to really get the building going (or at least this would be my ideal situation) it would still be at least a month or so before i could start work...
  3. mslz22

    Monster

    If you think it will get the # up to 25 that would be cool.... thanks mike
  4. mslz22

    Monster

    I would likely use brass or some sort of abs tube for the cannons, i would have a detail insert for the end of the barrel to add detail....i think so far we are up to 11 people so far in the thread..........
  5. mslz22

    Monster

    Yep those were the ones i was looking for.... thanks mike
  6. mslz22

    Monster

    My goal would be to get it around $275.00 + shipping, for that i think i would need 25 people, again no prepay, just a nod that 25 people would want a kit. for that price i would need to get it down to about 6lbs of resin, which may be possible. V thanks for the offer, once i get a better idea if this will really go ahead i may take you up. If anyone has good scans of the line art from the perfect memory book that would really help too, there are a couple of small drawings in there that are close to blueprints as you will get thanks mike
  7. mslz22

    Monster

    I've been pondering the cost and as with most projects the price will depend on how many people are interested, to the point that if it was 25 instead of 20 it would make a difference. I guess we can feel around for interest. I would not want any money until the masters and the molds were finished and everyone was happy with the master, I just really do not want to hold peoples $, i can fund the build myself. So if you guys are serious, should we start a seperate interest thread? this is pretty cool because i have been wanting to do a destroid build in either 1/48 or 1/60 for a while (just ask Jesse he's heard me talk about it for a while) but if a 1/72 monster is what people want (assuming i get it done right )maybe that is a good place to start
  8. mslz22

    Monster

    Ok, after 4 hours of driving today (yes 4 hours!!) I've come up with a plan of how i would scratchbuild a monster and more importantly how i would cast it to keep the cost more reasonable than this one. If there are enough people interested i may start thinking about the build after i finish up a couple of things in the next few weeks (Blueroses custom/vf4 stuff/another scratchbuild for another model place that i can't say what it is but Jesse has seen the progress ) but i would really need to know how many people would be interested to see if it would be worth it.
  9. mslz22

    Monster

    I've considered (once i am caught up with other projects) scratchbuilding a 1/72 monster, but making the body/arms etc hollow to keep down the weight and the cost. this one is nice but very inaccurate, another recast of it would be tough and really break the bank. I have to take a long car ride today, i will daydream about how i would scratchbuild one
  10. mslz22

    Monster

    They really could have done a big chunk of it hollow to keep the weight down (not MN the original sculptors) for example the arm cannons could have been built hollow by having the inside face be a "lid" on the rest of the arm, that alone would have saved a ton of resin. also at least part of the body could have been hollowed with a similar "lid" cast seperatly to keep the weight down.........
  11. mslz22

    Monster

    WOW, i have not thought about this kit in a really long time, I have not worked on this model for years, but when i first got it i wanted to really superdetail it, I started to do some work as seen in the pic. My modeling skills are much improved since then, someday i will need to finish this up and really add all the bells and whistles, looking at it now it really needs a lot of structural change to get it to look more like the line art.....still a fun, rare kit to have...
  12. it looks like the wings being thinner than the joint where they meet the body was part of the original, and of course that transfered over the the recast. when i put together my test cast one i was thought that perhaps it was intentional to simulate some sort of hindge, but after seeing what it looks like nice and matched up i know i was wrong.
  13. The Molds for the yf21 are still good, not sure about the 19, I will PM Jesse. However it would be a little bit before I could get a couple cast up, if you are interested PM me and i will let you know what is going on. thanks
  14. I used model masters (enamel) Camo Grey for the light grey and navy agressor grey with a ghost coat of the camo grey over it for the 2nd color.....looks right to me.....
  15. The only thing that would make that cooler is if at the end he said "I AIN"T GETTIN ON NO PLANE FOOL" then murdock gave him a glass of milk.........that would knock him out and the rest of the gang would pick him up and put him on a plane ...........really, I think that happened in just about every episode of the A Team why not this one.......
  16. I use zap a gap (availiable at hobbyshops) in the green bottle, it seems to give me a few extra seconds and really can fill a gap, especially on a resin kit if you drop a bit into a gap and then sand a bit near the gap (do not sand off detail!!!) and let the resin dust attach to the glue.
  17. Here is a list of a combo of what I would pay or what i have paid... 1. Bandai VF-1S Strike Valkyrie 1/55 $250.00 2. Bandai VE-1 Elintseeker 1/55 $400-$50.00 3. Bandai Super Ostrich 1/55 $400.00 4. Bandai VF-1A h. Ichijo 1/55 $75.00 5. Takatoku VF-1S Fokker/Ichijo 1/55 (blk/yllw stripe) $150.00 6. Takatoku VF-1J H. Ichijo 1/55 (red stripe) $150.00 7. Takatoku VF-1J Maximilian 1/55 (blue) $200.00 8. Takatoku VF-1J Miriya 1/55 (red) $200.00 9. Takatoku VF-1A Kakizaki 1/55 (brown) $150.00 10. Takatoku VF-1S GBP-1S gift set 1/55 $300.00 11. Takatoku VF-1S Super Valkyrie 1/55 $250.00 that is assuming that they are all in nice shape with boxes.. hope that helps a bit..
  18. Got mine today from Kev at VE, and my review will be short and sweet. I really really like it......and I am happy i got it....
  19. Unless I am mistaken no Club M kits came as a multi mode kit, in fact most should be fighter only, and if it was the 21 the 21 has no gun. as for decals, most recasts do not come with decals unless specified that they are included.......
  20. PM me for any info, I assure you it is less than what CC was charging and very reasonable for that much resin mike
  21. For anyone interested check out my site http://p208.ezboard.com/fmslz22modelsfrm7 note that this IS NOT a recast project I purchased the masters from Captian Cardboard so all the parts are made from the original masters........ thanks and feel free to post at the site or PM me with any ?'s mike
  22. I noticed in the first 10 minutes it was bogus, the scene where he is on the internet messageboard, the directors log on was KAHNMAN1, which is con-man 1
  23. What Krlon told me is that fusion paint will stick to fusion paint, however there is a window of opportunity to do this and I can't remember exactly what it is. Call the 800 # on the back of the can, they were pretty helpful. Like I said the real issue is that a clear coat will not stick well, so if you are applying decals they will be unprotected, if they even stick...adhesion backed stickers should not be an issue. I have a can and was planning on playing around with it a bit, I will post some results when I get around to playing with it. mike
  24. Your best bet is to scratch build, it is not too hard of a shape. You could build out of basswood (or such) and laminate with styrene. If you know how to mold and cast you could take a mold of it before adding the details that oppose each other (ie the towers) and then add the scribing and details to the resin copy.....
  25. size difference......and I stand by my 1.34!!!! I guess I should not round #'s uncaffinated!
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