rotorhead

just a little pondering here, but would something like that work to scale up an existing model? f'rinstance.... taking a 1/72 regult or glaug and bumping it up to 1/48? that'd be great for us folks wanting/needing enemy mecha to beat up!

there's a great customized max floating in the forums that should be put in the custom gallery: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=21708

people can buy what they want to buy, but complaining about a broken brand new item is totally legit in my book. i had bought a $16 transformer and took it home only to realize it had a broken arm. i took it back to the point of purchase, and it was cheerfully replaced with an unbroken one. people should vote with their wallets. if you want to pay $200 for a broken brand new toy, go right ahead. more power to ya! however, i won't. from what i've read, i seriously doubt i'll pick up a yf-19. personally, i don't see a reason to buy a brand new flawed item. maybe yamato would start paying more attention to what they sell if others did the same.

that's quite possibly the nicest max i've ever seen, and the paint job absolutely rocks! great work on the panel lining too. i can't wait to see if you do a matching milia.

just thinking about maneuvers with valks aboard.... perhaps make the landing deck out of a very thin sheet of ferrous metal? then on the valks, some tiny neodymium magnets would help secure them in place. if that's too heavy, then maybe some metal under the deck in certain areas, kind of like a staging or posing area. i'd also like to see some firepower in the bow. imagine the look of shock on a fellow boater's face when you do a daedelus attack into the side of a scale battleship and unleash a torrent of spring snakes into its hull.

let's see, on my bench i've got a 1:24 tamiya wrx which is the first time i've been able to find a model of my own car, a paper regult, a 1:10 nitro r/c truck in dire need of cleanup and rebuild, and my 1:48 roy waiting for it's anasazi decals. note to self: never EVER try to build another paper model while quitting smoking.

yeah, it is a weird one. i've never heard of anyone else having that either. my camera is sick at the moment, but it's easy to describe: right arm cover, the one that opens to allow the hand to fold inside the forearm. the hinge is just below the elbow. the crack is about 1/8" below the hinge. the crack is from the inside, but not all the way through to the outside, so the forearm cover can open using the crack as a hinge. i couldn't see anything in any mode that pushes or rests on that area enough to cause a crack. however, when the gunpod is in hand, the fin on the back of the gunpod is remarkably close to where the crack is. that's the only thing i can think of that could've affected the cover at all. from the outside, you can barely tell there is a crack, as it doesn't show from the outside. i guess i probably should superglue it before it gets worse.... just need to make sure superglue is safe for it. either that or i may get lucky and find someone that's got a spare.

i've got one 1/48 vf-1s, definitely a re-issue (2nd, 3rd, not sure). everything has been fine on it, and i transform it every now and then, like once every week or so. even the tampo skull is nearly straight. so far, so good, except for 2 things. first, the bit on the gun where you would attach the gunstrap has broken, but that was my fault. it felt thin, and when taking off the gunstrap, it broke out. i think i forced it when i shouldn't have. also, the right arm 'cover' has a near break, a fracture if you will. it's awfully close to where the back of the gun would line up when being held. funny thing is, i didn't do anything to that one to develop such a crack. i pay very close attention to the transformation process so as not to break anything, especially after reading all the stuff here. best i can guess is that it already had some minor crackage going on there. it's still not broken all the way through, so i'm not sure if i should superglue it now, or wait till it finally gives way. maybe they should start calling these "toydels", not quite toys, not quite models. but for $120, i'd like it to be a little more durable than an eggshell.

i can picture the cannons aiming at the zentradi fleet, gloval at the bridge, pipe smoking.... "fire on my command..... DIG'EM!" pummeling the enemy forces with a deadly barrage of sweetly puffed rice goodness. not sure if it'd help, but way back in middle school, we used to make fingerboards (skateboards for your fingers) out of cardboard. a great trick to stiffen the cardboard was to put super glue all over it, basically soaking it. perhaps it could be useful for areas where the cardboad needs more structural solidity. fantastic job on the sdf-1! any plans for a TV version? i've got an empty box of fruity pebbles that you could borrow

same place and size that i found mine! it does work pretty good, although i sometimes feel it doesn't quite reach the bottom of the groove. my easy fix was to borrow one of my wife's emery boards and lightly rub the lead against it at a 30 degree angle. this makes for a super sharp chisel tip for all those tiny panel lines.

i poked around a bit and found the following wikipedia excerpt from "battletech technology": Land-Air 'Mech (LAM) The LAM had the ability to transform into a conventional aircraft and revert to BattleMech mode, enabling it to quickly traverse great distances in a short time. However its weight limit, and real life legal conflicts with Harmony Gold (The LAMs, as well as several other 'Mechs, were based heavily off of 'Mecha designs from The Super Dimension Fortress Macross and other anime series) would end its official existence within the universe. The Wasp, Stinger and Phoenix Hawk were famous LAMs. These Land Air 'Mechs can be found in the original edition of Technical Readout: 3025, along with the other "lost" or "unseen" BattleMechs such as the Marauder, Crusader, Warhammer, and the non-LAM versions of the Stinger, Wasp, and Phoenix Hawk other interesting reading for macross/battletech fans: http://www.angelfire.com/scifi/weirdozone/...ch/mystery.html ahhh.... harmony gold, cross them and they'll sue your a$$. and a listing of battlemechs, pictures included. for extra laughs, take a look at the wasp and the phoenix hawk: http://www.kerensky.tierranet.com/btech/btech.shtml they should fire their artist. that's the lamest valkyrie copy EVER!

i've had good results polishing clear plastic with plain, old skool toothpaste. not the funky whitening, gelly, uber-breath funk repelling kind... just plain old cheap white tooth PASTE. i've saved tons of watch faces and model windshields with it. put a splot on your finger, rub it around for a bit, rinse, repeat if necessary. practice on something else first if your worried, although i've never had any problems with it.

from what i gather, 'convoy' is the name of optimus prime in the japanese market. kinda like how in the US, we've got 'robotech' versus what the japanese call 'macross'. IMHO, convoy looks closer to what i consider to be optimus than the US optimus, ie no battle damage and normal smokestacks.

chas, in the states, one can easily find 'rubbing alcohol' up to 90% concentration, even in the local grocery stores. 40% is the most common, but nearly everywhere i've looked, the 90% was on the shelf right next to the 40% . i used to clean my airbrushes with a 50/50 mix of windex (blue ammonia glass cleaner) and rubbing alcohol. that being said, i've never tried to thin down body filler with it. edit: to stay at least a tick on topic, mechtech.... that is one amazing job you are doing! i know i'd never have the time nor the patience to finish such a project. my hat is off to you, sir!

over here in the US, we also call it 'rubbing alcohol', and you REALLY don't want to drink it! it's definitely not the same kind of alcohol that some of us imbibe in.

perhaps put the monster on a side burner for now and do stuff that nobody else is doing. my vote's with enemy mecha, preferably 1/48 scale. you can't go wrong with a line of destroids, although i'm not sure how things would go over if someone else is already working on them.

huzzah! enemy mecha! now i need to figure out what size to print for 1/48. this should get me by till someone decides to cast a 1/48 glaug... or regult... or q-rau

now THAT'S what i'm talking about! fantastic pics!

*ahem* just a gentle nudge back to "New Pics Of Low Vis Version 2" TV vs DYRL is a great topic, but i'm pretty sure there is already a thread (a lengthy one at that) devoted to it. we now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.

... or some 1/48 enemy mecha! man, i'd lose my mind if i could get a 1/48 glaug. or heck, i'd take a regult too. i'm not picky. hrm, the more i think about it... i'd have to find my mind before i could lose it again.

i thought it was a short, angry, hairy canadian with claws and a wicked hair do.

all i can say is, WOW! that's one bad-ass space pickle! i think it looks great, although i wouldn't personally spend that much on a model.... any model for that matter. but i know if i saw it on display somewhere, i'd be staring at it for a loooong time.

just one... roy's vf-1s 1/48 with fast/strike packs. it'd be cool to have a bunch of different valks, but if i'm only gonna have one, it's going to be the one that in my mind defines the whole series. something about opening that fresh new box with a skull-1 inside.... i had all kinds of fond childhood memories come flooding back! TV 1/48 Vf-1J (Hikaru): 000 1/48 Vf-1J (Hikaru FP): 000 1/48 Vf-1J (Miria FP): 000 1/48 Vf-1J (Max FP): 000 DYRL 1/48 Vf-1A (Hikaru): 000 1/48 Vf-1S (Hikaru): 000 1/48 Vf-1S (Roy): 001 Variations 1/48 Vf-1A (Low Vis I): 000 1/48 Vf-1A (Low Vis II): 000 1/48 Vf-1J (Stealth): 000 1/48 Vf-1J (Stealth FP): 000 Accessories 1/48 Vf-1 GBP (Blue): 000 1/48 Vf-1 GBP (Camo): 000 1/48 Vf-1 FP: 001 1/48 Vf-1 FP(Clear): 000 Others 1/60 Vf-0S Roy: 000 1/60 QR Mirira: 000 1/100 VB6 Koeing: 000

ah, the great wm cheng! actually, it was your vf-1s that made me want to make mine nicer however, i'm trying to avoid clear coating. i could clearcoat it with some future, but i want to try to keep it close to stock. the panel lines can be washed out later, and decals or stickers could be removed if necessary, as long as they're not clearcoated. how durable is an uncoated decal? or an uncoated sticker? is future too shiny for the finish? please forgive my noobiness i didn't even think of pm'ing anasazi directly. boy, do i feel stoooopid. but on a side note, my brother in-law has a decal making kit for his computer. it's the basic one i've seen at most hobby shops. from what i've read, i know i'll be happy with the anasazi decals if i go that route. what i don't know is if they are better than the hobby store decal kit, the same, or what. from the sounds of it, his stuff is probably a good deal better.

having just bought my first valk(vf-1s focker and fast/strike packs), i'm wanting to add a little detail. i've used a mechanical pencil to bring out the panel lines. now i'm looking to get the decals put on, but i hear so many bad things about the yamato decals that i'm not even going to bother with them. my question is, should i get the takatoys stickers or the anasazi decals? i do plan to handle the valk on occasion, which may include running down the hall screaming 'WHOOOOSH!', so i want to make sure they'll hold up. i also do not plan to clear coat the valk. i'm trying to keep any mods i do reversible, if i ever end up selling it later. granted, it's doubtful i will, but it was one of the ways i was able to talk my wife into letting me get one. that being said, where in the world can i find either the takatoys stickers or the anasazi decals? i've found several vendors that carry them, but every single one of them is out of the roy vf-1s and standard fast pack decals. i REALLY don't want to resort to the yamato decals if i can avoid it. thanks to all in advance! greg