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Mog

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Everything posted by Mog

  1. After a pretty lackluster Season 6, it was fun to see the crew back for this final season. Hopefully, they can knock this one out and end on a high note.
  2. Mog

    Mog's Matchbox 1/3000 SDF-1 Custom/Mod

    Repaint A-Stance mod Extension of main guns (with polystyrene and magnets) Repair of busted shoulder joints Panel-lining
  3. So, I’m waiting on a few figures, and I’ll be screwed if Bandai ever does SOC Legendary Defender Voltron, the Sincline Combiner, and/or the Fleet of Doom Robeast Combiner. But the Macross shelves are pretty much set:
  4. TV Kaki and CF have noticeably different color schemes: Kaki has white chest and back with brown shoulders, while CF has brown chest and back with white shoulders.
  5. Well, I picked up Max second-hand, so not sure if the original owner ever got the TV hands from the retailer (or just didn’t include them as part of the auction).
  6. Unfortunately, these days it’s Pre-Mouse and Post-Mouse.
  7. So, I know Hasbro’s “carbonized” some of its figures lately. But I went and “chrome-a-tized” this old figure’s gun: Looked kinda plain in just black plastic, so I gave the BFG a chrome wash to make it a little more “lived in.”
  8. Thanks. The TV Max and TV Kakizaki were some of the last 1/48’s produced by Yamato. They were packaged as Macross Chronicles, but they did NOT come with TV hands (a fellow MW’er helped me to acquire those). Edit: Actually, it was @Ignacio Ocamica who gave me the TV hands all those years ago. Glad I’m able to put them to good use again!
  9. I may not want one, but I can admire the insane amount of detail and effort that went into this.
  10. Yes, I know they’re not the same scale. Yes, I know one is a DYRL version, while another is a TV version. But it’s too fun of a pairing to pose:
  11. Regarding your question @nightmareB4macross, it’s Citadel Base Caledor Sky. It’s the same blue I used to touch up and brush paint parts of my custom SDF-1. Staring at the TV Max, the Citadel paint is just a smidge darker than the blue on the legs. But it’s passable.
  12. So, I got a display space ready for Sentinel’s red/Zeta Legioss and its eventual release in December 2020 April 2021 : Might be able to fit a red Tread in there too, when Sentinel releases it in December 2023 (I’m being optimistic!).
  13. Yah, kinda figured that’s what happened. Just surprised it impacted the blue plastic but had no impact on any of the white plastic. Or if it actually did impact the white plastic, it yellowed all the white pieces consistently. In any case, I’m glad it was only the blue that was affected. Made it a quick fix-up:
  14. So, apparently white and grey aren’t the only plastics that can “yellow”: Granted, I’m the idiot that left it up in the attic for the past seven years enduring all sorts of SoCal temperature variations. But the 1/48 was left in her original box, which doesn’t have a flip cover and doesn’t allow any sort of light through. Surprisingly the white parts haven’t really yellowed much if any, and I already repainted the yellowed/“tealed” parts back to Macross blue. Comparison of repainted arm to tealed-out arm: One half showing the damage, and one half repainted:
  15. So, I left my 1/48 Max up in the attic for the past seven years (no place to display it . . . until now! ). It was kept in its original box, away from sunlight but left to the mercies of California temperature variations. I was worried it would be yellowed all to hell. It wasn't too badly yellowed: But then I flipped it over. . . . whoops! It's even more noticeable in battroid: How she originally looked 8+(?) years ago: I'm kinda surprised the blue in the arms, hips, and head changed to practically teal. Would've thought the white would be the color most impacted by the temperature changes. At least I have some blue paints that are a close match.
  16. @enphily posted these awhile back. In these prototype pics, you can see the hard point under the wing and the matching gap on the gun here:
  17. I'm honestly okay with the angle of the railguns. I'll probably be posing her in cruiser mode once everything is settled, and the angled guns give her a little more of a dynamic look (than if the guns are all pointed straight with the rest of the ship). For anyone who does this, the challenge is that the railguns themselves are about 5mm thick. So, there's not a lot of room to work with to drill in a joint or connection point. I came up with one possible alternative: instead of using a ball-socket or ball-hinged joint, you could probably make a swivel cut on the railguns and use magnets at the cut. If you ever bought Star Wars figures back in the early 00's, there were a lot of figures that used a swivel-cut for the elbows. Basically, the swivel-cut joint allowed you to pose the arm straight or with a bend at the elbow. In the case of the Macross, a swivel cut at about 80 to 85 degrees on the railgun (basically just slightly off from 90 degrees perpendicular) would give the railgun two pose options: one position angled out and then swiveled on the magnets to position them lined up straight. The tricky part is to cut the railguns at just the perfect angle so that they'll look straight. And you'd be limited to only two poses, as opposed to the unlimited options of a ball-socket or ball-hinge joint. Considering you'd have to purchase magnets anyways to hold up the main guns or to extend the main guns, this is a cheaper/"sunk costs" alternative.
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