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About SteveTheFish
- Birthday March 8
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https://stevethefish.net
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Gender
Male
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Location
Gunma Prefecture, Japan
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Interests
Linux, modeling, retro anime, retro video gaming
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SteveTheFish's Achievements

Destroid Armour Waxer (3/15)
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I've got the very first kit, with the no-name blue-haired girl. I can scan if you'd like.
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@nightmareB4macross That's always been my favorite pose, the one between Fighter and Gerwalk with the legs extended and the arms retracted. That looks cool.
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Imai's kit was 1:100 and Arii's kit was 1:72. typically Arii kits had better surface detail, but Imai had overall better proportions. Some of the Arii kits are awkward-looking. Their Glaug though was pretty good. I've never seen one in-person, but builds I've seen of it look nice.
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I'm sometimes working on this Dirty Pair garage kit I bought at Wonder Festival in Chiba about 10 years ago. The last time I touched this was in 2021 I think. Now I've done a dry fit to test it out. Just using pins and blue tack to keep it together. The guy who made this kit also made other Lovely Angel kits, as well as Zentraedi and Meltrandi fleet ships. He introduced me to the head of Studio Nue... I forget his name because I am apparently not a big enough fan. IIRC, I think he told me that Kei's character was sort of inspired by his wife. Don't quote me on that.
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Hey, I noticed that the contents of one of my Citadel shading bottles is getting a bit too thick. What should I thin it down with before it tries up? IPA? Water?
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Arii 1/20000 Zentradi ships... building after decades!
SteveTheFish replied to megatron-uk's topic in Model kits
Those look great. I am also building these same four ships, but I was not lucky to get the 15th anniversary repops and mine must probably be from the '80s. The decals for the Therval Salal were manageable, but decals for the LST and Breetai's flagship were brittle. I poured Microscale Decal Film into the airbrush and sprayed them a few times. After that, they didn't break apart but were still stubborn. -
Thanks! That's exactly my thoughts on the armored parts. I've been building this Imai Armored Valk alongside the new Hasegawa one, and I had plenty of leftover paint I'd mixed for the armored parts on the Hasegawa one to use on this smaller kit. When I'm done, I'll take a picture of them side-by-side.
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The eye decals are leftover for the Hasegawa Eggplane Girl resin kit I'm also working on. You can see the face in the lower left-hand corner of the photo. Fortunately, not only do they give you a choice of eyes, but they also provide several in case you screw it up. I have the 1400 Enterprise E myself, in a First Contact box. I just recently bought aztec decals for it from HDA Modelworx.
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I worked a lot on my Enterprise E kit last night, laying down more decals. The topside decals went down more easily because the surface doesn't have deep concave sections. I've cut out the red and blue warp nacelle parts of the decals to lay them down without interfering with the blue fluorescent paint. I got to the point where I had to stop. Due to the nature of having to handle the kit, I wouldn't want to run the risk of handling it with wet decals lest they come off on my hands, right? I just did one side of one nacelle so far. My plan to just cut out the red and blue parts from the decals worked though, so I'm pleased with that. Oh, and there's one big U-shaped decal that goes along the front. I did not have confidence that it would survive, so I cut it essentially in half (in a blank part of the aztec pattern) and put it down in two sections.
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I could've sworn I already posted this on here, but I guess not. I'm nearly done with my modified Imai 1:100 Armored VF-1J. It's altered with custom ball joints, better hands, and aftermarket decals. Actually, the only decal I used from the original decal sheet (which was pretty worn, ugly, and barely usable) is that flame/torch thingy on its waist. Uncannily, several spare decals from the 1:72 Hasegawa kit fit perfectly on this 1:100 kit. the standard UN Spacy roundel I used for the wing on the back came from a sheet of basic Macross decals from China on eBay. Other warning labels and such came from HiQParts generic aftermarket decals. I used the same leftover mixed paints from the 1:72 Hasegawa one, but made this one Millia's red Valk instead. Yes, I know that Nichmo made a hypothetical Millia's Armored Valk in 1:200 scale back in the day, but I don't prefer that scheme because I figure that the armor parts would all have the same, uniform paint scheme across all the Valks.
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There are actually two different versions of the Cruise Chaser Blassty. There was one they put out in their Moderoid series, but this stylized artwork version (which a resin kit was made of) didn't become a plamo until now. It's pretty incredible as I was not expecting them to make this at all! Cruise Chaser Blassty is an old Square RPG on the NEC PC-88 computer, Japan only.
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simpit VF-1S inspired simulated home cockpit for Space Pew Pew games
SteveTheFish replied to Beko Pharm's topic in The Workshop!
Neat. So what game is that? Can you play Pac-Man on that thing?- 12 replies
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Thanks! Old kits don't get enough love. Speaking of which, I've begun working on that Bandai/Imai Defender kit I mentioned a few weeks ago. Below is the first video. As for the Tested stuff, it's best to put it in the 'Hey look at this really cool model build I saw' post thread.
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I'm painting this small resin Nadia figure. She comes in one part, so just one resin lump. Made by Kaiyodo. I bought it a few years back for only about 2,000 yen. Now this has jumped up in price since then. I just started her eyes but ended up making it sloppy. I need to wait for the paint to dry. I'll work on it when I get home from work this evening. I'll need to do a flat coat after I'm done, then paint her gold jewelery.
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How are you priming your models? It looks like you're perhaps using a spray can of Tamiya primer, but you aren't warming it up with warm water and shaking it for a minute properly. I see a lot of splatter that's giving your unwanted texture. If you prep it properly, it shouldn't come out fuzzy like that. Either that or you're airbrushing it and it's not thinned enough.