cool8or

It looks amazing, it's a wonderful job. Congratulation!

Cool!

That's far more glamourous that my photo studio. How much does it cost?

Shut up man... I only bought one!!! T_T

It seems like there are not interior details on this kit... That's why the Club-M Ultimate Detail Valkyrie is still the king!! And about the missiles, I'm pretty sure that we will see a missile kit from Hasegawa in one or two years max...

Reno, como habrás visto en un topic que hice hace unos días, yo también he tenido problemas de descascaramiento, creo que ya se el origen pero me gustaría conocer un poco más de tu caso, así intercambiamos conocimiento. Ojalá pudieras decirnos como son tus procedimientos para pintar, que pintura usas, que imprimante, que masking tape, etc. Respecto a las partes metalizadas, noto que no están brillantes, y con eso estarás perdiendo toda la gracia del alclad. Todos concuerdan que lo mejor es que pintes sobre una base de negro brillante, pero yo he descubierto que no importa mucho que sea negro, pero sí lo brillante. Mientas pintes sobre una superficie bien, bien brillante, verás que el acabado del alclad será como estar viendo una pieza de metal. Es hermoso!

I really hope the third book of Hidetaka Tenjin... He's the God of Macross illustrations! But meanwhile, I'll but this kit... Just for the illustration!

Boxart!!! But... I throught that the kit will be the fast pack parts only, but it seems like the kit will be the complete aircraft.

Hola, no había visto este topic y me parece estupendo, siempre es grato encontrar paso a paso, ya que eso de andar sacando fotos y postear todo quita harto tiempo, de hecho es por eso que yo mismo he dejado de hacerlos, pero ya debo hacerme el animo, vale mucho la pena. Respecto a esta maqueta y los colores, una ventaja de la ciencia ficción es que nunca nadie te reprochará los colores, se puede considerar como "tema libre", así que mientras a tí te guste, super! Yo mismo he pintado casi todo a la pinta mía, solo ahora estoy comprando pinturas Mr. Color y con ello estoy siendo respetuoso de los colores "originales", pero saben que? Solo uno mismo lo sabe! Muy bueno el preshading y me encantó la cabina, así que ya se ve que va a quedar hermoso. Saludos!

I mean, picture of Minmay's figure.

Picture please!!

Exo, I'm very interested!!

As I expect, yours is the best Inbit EVER created. And I'm sure that it will NEVER be another better. Congratulations!! Personally, I prefer to put a crystal ball as eye, instead a LED, so I very like the cavity you created to locate it.

I think John is refering to a 1/72 N-Ger.... Do I'm right, John? Anyway, sorry for delay, but I just sent the payment for 2 kits.

Sweet!! Sadly there are not any other Mospeada model kit in this scale...

So, based in your experience, Samuel Decals works and looks better than the originals from Bandai?

I agree with that. Sadly, before hasegawa announces their VF-25 project, I had been started the building of my RVF-25 in fighter mode. But what the hel! Welcome Hasegawa!

You're right!:

If I buy a model kit is for paint it and make it beautiful and admire it in my shelf. if I want to play with, I buy a toy. But anyway, i can understand that there are people who likes these Bandai kits... But the decals?? My God, I can make my own decals in my inkjet printer, and the quality wil be far far better than the ^}><]>~}*~]}*££~^+!! Decals from Bandai. Sincerely, I never have seen before such a worst decal in the market. Damn it!!!

Thank you guys. Good ideas and advices have been mentioned in this thread. To start, I'll follow Cap's advice, I'll go to the Automotive Paint Store and I'll buy a Primer from them. I have a lot of money invested in these paints so I have to give it a chance. Thank you again!

God hear you!!

Mmhm... That could explain it... And could the paint AND the thinner cause the same effect... I'll make some experiments.

This is a very tricky problem. At the beginning of buildind, I test the adherence of Mr Surfacer and everything is perfect, and I trust that all is OK. Even if I try to reproduce the problem, I never get it. But, after several weeks, or months, after you paint the base color, postshading, and masking to apply the secondary colors, is when the disaster occurs: not in several pieces, only in just one or two. . This time, was more frustrating, because I had the kit ready, with decals, flat coating, and the only work left was a metal finish section. I left this work to the end because the metal colors looks better with their original shine, and, talking about this specific case, masking before the flat coat would be more dificult. Mike, I never have cleaned plastic kits. Now I was considering to do it, so thank you for your advise. HWR, I do exactly what you do. As I said before, fortunately I can fix the disaster and it looks like never happened. Obviosly, this problem don't happen with water based or enamel paints, but sadly adherence is not a synonymous of resistance. As you already know, a couple times per year I go to modeling or collector exhibitions, so I really need that my kits to be resistant to friction. In this aspect, enamel and water based paints really sucks.

Hi guys. In the last years, I have been painting with automotive laquer paints, bought in a automotive paint store, and used also the regular thinner (called "acrylic" but obviously is not water based) bought in the hardware store. As you know, I been having some adherence problems in some resin kits, and I though that the problem was the resin itself. But yesterday I was finishing a Hasegawa plastic model , and when I retire some masking tape (Tamiya), some paint take off. It was very frustating, due the valk was almost finish. I use Mr Surfacer as primer, but when this happens it's also removed by masking tape, so when this happens no paint is left, just the plastic. Fortunately, this happened to me so much that right now I'm an expert solutioning these issues, and you can't see it in the final result. I have several Hase kits painted with this same paints and nothing happened in the past, so I don't know what happened this time... May be is the brand of the thinner (not always I find the same brand). If I can't identify the cause, I' m thinking in discontinue the use of this paints an only use Mr. Color paints. Fortunately, I found a web site that have the complete catalogue of this paints: www.sealmodel.com But, in case that I discontinue the use of my automotive paints, I wondering about the diference between the regular thinner, bought in the hardware store, and the Mr. Color thinner... Do you think that deserves to pay more, and wait 3 months (delivery time for surface shipping) to have this thinner? May be it's almost the same product, I don't know, that' why I'm asking. In the worst scenario, I can use Mr. Color thinner only to thin the pain, and use regular thinner just to clean the airbrush and tools. Any comment will be welcome.

Hey, wait a minute... You already have done the half of the sculpting! Looks great!