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Sanity is Optional

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Everything posted by Sanity is Optional

  1. All 4 Bandai YF-19s were pre-orders. The Yamato YF-21s cost more.
  2. With this, I can achieve my M+ goals: 2x Arcadia YF-19 2x Yamato YF-21 3x Yamato fold booster 4x Bandai YF-19 4x Bandai YF-21 All the modes displayed, all of them.
  3. More images via Tag Hobby: https://www.taghobby.com/archives/410975
  4. Try the lighter fluid first, it's not as strong.
  5. I can see it now, VF-11B full set, with supers and the over/under rocket boosters from Macross Plus.
  6. Well, I'm in. Just wondering if I ought to get a matching number to my DX YF-19s, or only buy 2-3.
  7. I have this one myself, looks great and nice and hefty. Shame it can barely articulate though.
  8. Oh, for new stuff, I've paid more. I have an Arcadia PF SDF-1 and a Bandai PG Phenex to name a couple. I just set a limit for used stuff, as the value fluctuates a bit more there.
  9. I set my limit at about $400 or MSRP, whichever is higher. Haven't paid that much for many things, but there have been a few. VF-11B/C and VF-0D are the only things I've bought used for that much.
  10. If you're doing things that are more mechanical than artistic, sketchup is supposed to be pretty good. It's worth deciding what you want to do. Some CAD packages are optimized more towards mechanical parts. They're good for getting exact shapes, with angles and flat faces or consistent curvature. Others are more artistic, and they're better at indefinite organic shapes. I like to think of is as "machining" vs "sculpting".
  11. There's a topic for the Plamax 1/20 Valk kits over in the Model Kits forum.
  12. Worth noting that for Detolfs there's a Yetistand base that clips onto the side/back of the glass shelf and lets you mount one arm above and one below.
  13. For reference, to those moving with gundam kits, I find that sticking them in a large Ziploc bag helps with parts falling off.
  14. That's the problem, once you refit all the displays, next you'll want to do all your lights. I started with just a couple swing-arm lamps for my work-bench.
  15. Actually, it's not all that odd for civilian aircraft to use rivets on the skin panels. https://www.wired.com/video/watch/watch-boeing-s-twin-robots-rivet-together-777-fuselages Now as for military aircraft, stuff gets odd.
  16. You need to rotate the hip bar around the pivot on the swing arm such that it ends up behind the head.
  17. Well that was essentially my question, if they went the law&litigation path, or if they just made a deal with HG.
  18. I'm also interested to know who they arranged with: whatever group handles IP complaints in China, or HG.
  19. Oh, I'm sure it could be done, hell the 1/72 model kit managed to fit in all the various mechanisms. I just would rather not have a toy that worked that way due to the innate flimsiness of such a mechanism. Especially if it was completely unnecessary for anything aside from transformation accuracy. I'm all for not having a box of parts to keep track of, but at the same time we only ever display these in one form or another, not midway between where such a mechanism would be relevant.
  20. Technically the Bandai kit is the most perfect transformation, as that stupid design nightmare of pistons attaching the chest to the legs actually is what is showed in the anime. It's still a design nightmare though, and I'll take a functional swing-bar over that POS any day.
  21. This is why during the 31A fiasco, I just sent a single short polite email every 2 weeks or so.
  22. Not for my Hikarus at least, undid and re-did the swing bar and it held together. One Max stayed in fighter mode, one Hikaru went Fighter->Battroid->Fighter->Gerwalk, the other went Fighter->Gerwalk->Fighter->Battroid (I had to re-box them to move).
  23. I usually take a knife and trim the sprue marks on all my HMRs, usually they at least cut them slightly long, rather than flush and badly.
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