Skull-1

See, that is a much brighter, more "blood" red than this reissue of mine is. It's more a wine color...

Are these the type the guy used on the "original" 1/48 low viz?

I would almost suggest spraying the stickers and decals with a dull finish before application. Just don't use Testors...it yellows.

Where's a good place to pick up the burner nozzle kits? Also, what did that guy use to customize his low-viz prototype (the two pairs of nozzles on the back part of the lower leg)? I'd like to try that.

Well, I cannot imagine the original Milia being darker than this one. This thing of mine is *DARK* red. You can barely tell it's red.... It's almost black (dark maroon).

You're the only person who has used tapered hip bars on a 1/55. Were they stock bars that were filed down? I am trying to decide how far to file these. I think the whole section forward of the swivel should be removed like yours are... What do you think?

He asserts that the Milia Reissue is lighter and brighter. Man, mine are both so dark that I'd hate to see what the original looked like. It must have been black!

Technicalities, technicalities. Lockheed didn't make most of the F-16s out there, but once they "bought the molds" so to speak, they're all called Lockheed-Martin F-16s. So, is the Banadai darker than the Taka?

Does anyone have any side-by-side comparisions of the Old Bandai vs. the Reissue? Milia's in particular (the reissue) looks way too dark. Is it just me?

I was hoping KK would jump in here.... I am thinking of taking the forward part of the hip bar off and filing the angle from that point. Would that be better?

That's old news. A-4 Skyhawks used dorsal humps decades ago...

Is that CF a custom? I like the Max and Milia versions, too.

My version: F uel A rmor A rmament S ystem T actical FAAST

That doesn't count. I'm talking about something more than a cosmetic update. (Not that this isn't pretty.)

The tool.....

I will fill the holes in with JB Weld and smooth them. It will look hot when done.

My camera has a busted flash so I grabbed a flashlight.

I'll try to upload better photos later.

I just ran over to the TrueValue hardware store and bought a medium grade triangle file (steel file used to work on saw blades and such). About fifteen minutes of work and voila! Instead of doing them flat I did them at an angle so they look like an intake ramp or something... I like the results.

Don't let him fool you. He's married so he isn't having sex. Sex is a manipulation tool women use to get you to marry them. Be warned.

My "A" had the exact opposite problem: the canopy was glued shut. The replacement canopy is loose by comparison. My Low-Viz canopy is perfect, though. It stays open when I want it to and that makes me happy.

Is anyone out there besides Anasazi still in the 1/55 Decal business or has that well officially dried up?

Max's glasses stayed on becausehe wore cable temples. (You know, wrap-around-the-ear type like Ray Ban.) Aerobatic pilots where them without problems.

M&M variants are far from "repaints." The 1/8 M&M will be molded in the base color (red or blue), no doubt, so that is hardly a repaint. Even so, it's better than a "renumber" (which is what the Hikaru "S" is, in essence). Forgive my impatience. It only took me ten years to get a Max Bandai "J" and that almost didn't happen because Bandai shut the doors down on the production line. Forgive me if I wince thinking Yamato may do the same thing.

www.toy-wave.com $89 plus shipping. For most folks it's $115 total. I am cheap so I don't mind waiting 30 days to get it in order to save a buck or two. I managed to talk the guy into $102 shipped! He's on the straight shooter list so let's hope.