Skull-1

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! THE HUMANITY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you try pulling the canopy out sideways you'll snap the hinge off! Don't even think about it!

The canopy hinge is placed into a notch. A cover plate is glued over the notch so that it covers the hinge. Basically half of the hinge rests inside the fuselage, half inside the fuselage hinge cover. [O] <--- Side view of hinge O ....... Top of Valk is <---- ............. Nose of Valk is ^ | |

Anyone making custom 1/48 heads yet?

An animation mistake somewhere around Episode 35. I think it was Robotech's "Broken Heart" episode. It's an "A" with the "A" laser in the center and the "J" lasers on the side. A total screwup, but... Oh, and they call it a "YF-1R" if you can believe that. Stupid...

I love the TV-style hands for the 1/48 Hikaru "J" Valk. Anyone out there planning to make them when the "J" is released? I could use some for my Max, Low Viz, and DYRL Hikaru.

Thanks for the help, both of you.

Yep. I was putting that thing on but not using the hook spade to hold the backpack to the thing that funny thing holds... Urp.... Now if I can just figure out how to get Max to hold the gunpod straight...

Got it! I couldn't figure out how to make it work. I wasn't using the hinge part to hold the back pack to the head plate hatch. Stupid me. Thanks!

Which part? I hate that I can't read Japanese and my attempts to search are not working. The search engine isn't doing anything. "We are unable to find any items to display." GRRRR.

What the heck is wrong with my Max? I can't get the backpack to stay up with the Super booster pack attached. Any ideas?

If the Blue Angels still exist in the time of Macross they aren't going to be the "U.N. Navy" ADS. Put the "U.S. Navy" on there like it should be.

Silver chips are not a good idea considering this thing is probably made of "foreign" (HAHAHA) materials. I'd say it's made of some super plastic or composit, but not traditional aluminum alloy, at least as far as the skin is concerned. That is the question you have to answer... "What is a Valk's skin made of?" Once you have that answer you can paint the chips to match the color of the material in question.

I would consider a few things regarding weathering: 1) What is the surface underneath the paint? Is it primer, is it composite material, is it Zinc Chromate? Paint your weathering chips with the appropriate color. I would think gray or ZC. 2) Are the repairs already completed? If so, then try different shades of blue and paint them on in rectangular patterns to mimmick same. 3) Is the Valk seeping fluids of any kind? What kinds if so? I'd say use blacks and browns for hydraulic and oil stains. Just a thought.... Nice work.

They have special paint these days that doesn't affect radar. He'll be fine.

JB Weld is the best thing ever made....

1/55s forever! My twenty year old Bandais will still be around when my brand new Yammie 1/48 is a pile of sawdust!

Beautiful!

I can't wait to see if the "new and improved" Hikaru "A" has the same flaw.

Roy's paint looks so much better....

Back in my caveman days I came up with this thing. Not sure why I'm posting it here, just bear in mind I was using a 386 with MS Paint back then.... http://jaddams.csw.uic.edu/aod/Picassos.html

*MW in unison*: "SHUT UP A**HOLE!" Just kidding. (Anyone remember "Flight of the Intruder"?) Welcome aboard New Guy!

Nail polish remover. Absolutely the best thing ever invented for removing super glue.

I would think it would darken with age. Look at the lighter parts... They have darkened with time.

Guys, UV light is 99% of what causes plastic to yellow. I've done experiments upon experiments with this very phenomenon. It all boils down to light. Even indirect light is enough to cause yellowing, albeit at a slower rate. It's light light light light light.