Skull-1

The flat plate side of the wrist acts in place of the forearm stowage door. The sliders are eliminated. The "L" bracket on the back of the hand (wrist) is used to remove the hand and, when flipped around, to hold the hand in place. The photos show a before/after side by side comparison. Like so..........

Easy to do... http://forums.macrossnexus.com/index.php?showtopic=167 Works great.

Either but I like your recasts the best....

Shameless bump. Anyone anyone? I am desperate to get some. ARMOR that is. ARMOR.

Good point!

Put JB Weld on it and they'll be burying it with you when you die... Still in one piece.

JB QWIK will dry in about five minutes. Hard as stone in a couple of hours. It's pretty much all I use now although the slower drying stuff does have advantages for filling seams and shaping things... You can probably do a little practice on plastic fusing using old model sprues. That's how I learned. It takes some practice but it is a great art and really makes it easy to replace a broken pitot tube or gun barrel.

I will have to test that. About the only thing it won't permanently bond to in my experience thus far is a greasy pan... It will work on the Toycrappy stand.

JB Weld bonds to anything...even flexible plastic... Using candles you hold plastic above the flame until it gets squishy...then shape it and allow to cool or fuse with more plastic... Easy to do. Works great for making antenna, gun barrel, head laser, and other similar parts.

JB Weld bonds to anything...even flexible plastic... Using candles you hold plastic above the flame until it gets squishy...then shape it and allow to cool or fuse with more plastic... Easy to do. Works great for making antenna, gun barrel, head laser, and other similar parts.

Geezus guys have you never worked with molten plastic?! It is a common model building technique. Read up on it. JBWeld works better than Gorilla Glue any way...

If the socket has already cracked... Melt a socket from elsewhere onto the existing stand...

Geezus keeeerist you guys are really dense... I did this with all three of mine. Dip the f'ing socket in some boiling water and snap the ball in, moving it around the whole time. The rubber will stretch slightly and will NOT crack after it cools. Problem SOLVED. No glue. No fuss. No muss. At the end of the day you can always melt a new ball/socket from somewhere onto the stand and ditch the Toynami ball/socket if you want... But u guys are overthinking the heck out of this.

I like what you have done...but as usual my critical nature comes out... Kawamori really overdid the flaps. There is no need for a double slotted inboard flap on the Valk. Keep it simple like the Hornet. There's enough complexity as it is. That being said... NICE work.

If you boil the rubber and but the socket in it will stretch not split.

I suggest boiling some water...sticking the socket in it...pull it out and then snap the ball in place and let it cool...

I suggest boiling some water...sticking the socket in it...pull it out and then snap the ball in place and let it cool...

I need customizers to make me decals and cockpits for my 1/100s. Any takers? I sense a market for them!!!!!!!!

The "hatch turn thingies" are vernier thruster ports IIRC.

Double post. YUCK.

Yeah and my 1/60s always try to flop over backwards..... Too top heavy in Battroid mode.

I tend to consider most weathering way overdone. These are modern fighters not junkyard cars... That being said..... This is a very impressive submission. It's almost sobering, to be honest. Is this supposed to be a TV version or DYRL? Obviously the damage makes me think of TV but the pilot doesn't match Roy's TV colors... Pretty nice. I wouldn't have had the courage to do that to a 1/48 as much as they cost! LOL

Fantastic custom.... Really is. WHEW.

http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...e=post&id=35951 The nose gear is *WAY* too big on that sucker....

The only mode the 1/60 gets right *IS* Battroid.... But I still prefer the 1/48. I don't like the hands but it's not like Yamato couldn't have done them differently...... Those ballsockets on the 1/60 look like a pair of testicles that got kicked...