Skull-1

Oh man...the clear decal film I used to print some custom decals appears to have yellowed slightly. I'm not sure if this is due to the clear coat or to the film. Are there decal films that tend to yellow? I know MONOGRAM was notorious for this in years past. AHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!

After a comment like this: I'm not surprised he's being quiet. I for one appreciated the updates regardless of content...

I love Max jets of all kinds, esp. the J. That thing looks like an anime painting or something. Very cool look.

It's *ALMOST* sci-fi to see an F-4 and F-16 in formation with a pair of F-86s... Holy smoke. http://airshowbuzz.com/videos/index.php?id=5

No problemo.

I'm not much of a believer in primer. The panel lines wind up obscured by primer in my opinion. Those painted without primer appear much crisper for my money. If you sand the parts before you paint them you can just use paint. I tend to use automotive paint by Duplicolor or regular paint by Rustoleum. Touchups can be accomplished with a brush to hide wear blemishes caused by transformation. The most important thing you must do is to sand sand sand sand sand any parts that rub together, especially legs, wings, and arms. Otherwise you'll have scuffs everywhere.

I'm with David on this one. If the airplane is BLACK or DARK BLUE then use the red. Otherwise go with the gray especially on a low-viz scheme.

Anything will be a help. At least I can get the Battroid decals in place. If it isn't too much trouble....with my thanks....

I already have all those. They are *LOW* resolution. As my request asks, does anyone have any HIGH resolution scans?

I have a copy of the Hasegaway 1/72 VF-1J decal placement guide but it is pixelated and I can't see some of the decals. Does anyone have a high-res copy of it anywhere? Thanks in advance.

I actually scanned the Super VF-1J also because I hosed up a couple of the EJECTION SEAT DANGER symbols. I wound up redrawing them and printing again but I had to use yours to get the size. Why do they fade? #($&*(#&$(#*&$!!!!!! Can we use a UV protectant clear coat to help? CRAP CRAP CRAP. I have some nose art I may need him to print...

Here's what I did and I am in *NO* way suggesting that someone do this for profit but..... I ordered a *TON* of Devin's sets for my Valks. On my low viz set I screwed up one of the panel lines so I scanned the one for the opposite side into PaintShop, reversed it, and printed one on decal film. I think it turned out about 95% as good as the originals. With the naked eye you cannot tell the difference. It was the only choice I had now that he has retired on me!!!!!! LOL The only problem is, I do not know the long-term quality of the decal film. I have a feeling the left wing will last 100 years because that one is Devin's and the right one will wrinkle and die in six months becuase that one is mine. LOL

LOL

Anyone else? Mr. Cheng? Anyone? Will have to try that dot of blue in the white paint. Will that make it turn GREEN instead of yellow? LOL

Thanks. Of course, that would require me to learn to airbrush. *GASP*

(I accidentally posted this over in Customizing. Please delete that one not this one.) I would love to know what our Valkyrie model experts use to flatten the paint on their models. I heard that Gunz-Sanyo (or whatever it is called) is non-yellowing. Well, I heard that about Kyrlon Matte Finish Clearcoat and found it to yellow with time. It didn't give me the flat finish I wanted any way so that one is out the window. Does anyone have GENUINE experience with a TESTOR'S DULLCOTE *EQUIVALENT* that will not yellow? I am talking raw flat, not matte, not glossy, but *FLAT*. That Gunz product has me particularly curious. Does it yellow with time on white paint? Many thanks in advance for your help.

I looked at Wal-Mart all the time for these and never saw one. When were they sold?

Not always David. There are lots of surfaces and parts that are composites nowadays so there is no metal color beneath. Just a note. Gap filler is also a cause of obvious panel lines. Most panel joints are sealed then painted making them nearly invisible from even a short distance. Model panel lines are 99% overdone.

Thanks Fly!

I thought it was a popular show and that's why they extended it to 36. Am I wrong? With popularity would come a budget I would hope.

Just give me a J head with lengthened lasers and I'll be okay with it even if they are thicker than they are supposed to be.

That'd be cowardly wouldn't it? I wrote it I'll live with it. Just sorry to take things off topic.

If I had to choose between a Toynami MPC and a 1/60 Yammie I would go for the MPC. I like Gerwalk and Fighter modes the best and the 1/60 is not very good in either. I thhink the Super 1/60 is probably about a tie or slightly better because the armor hides many flaws. But I am particularly unimpressed with the Yamato 1/60.

1/60 is okay in Battroid but otherwise I consider it STINK-O. It's okay as a SUPER. The M&Ms are pretty good. Otherwise... BLEH.

I'm not sure I would change much other than making the animation a bit more consistent. Episode 3 is particularly bad (Roy flying a VF-1A, etc.). I know they had to farm out animation but I really wish they didn't have to.