ghostryder

Hard to tell from the CG art, but the VF-25 design looks like a bit of a throwback compared to the YF-21/VF-22. Even a bit more primitive than the SV-51. Beautiful nonetheless! I'm still a sucker for 4th / 4.5 generation designs, so I'm all over it's looks... also a sucker for swing wings

This is Hikaru's valk isn't it? I imagine they painted a new red skull/001 on a set of old strike fastpacks right before the final battle. EDIT - maybe some smoke over the other white text, which I assume is what you were refering too also. Looking good, can't wait to see the finshed product.

If you look at solvent - plastic compatability charts, I think ethanol is safer for ABS than isopropyl alcohol. It's more pricey , but get a bottle of 200 proof Everclear (or if you have access to lab grade ethanol, get a bottle). I soaked 1/48 parts, including heatshields, in this stuff without any ill effects or clouding.

Not crazy about that 1/48 VF-1 fleshy CF color. Shouldn't it be more dark desert sandy/bronze?

Any updates?

This looks about 75% better cleaned up. I agree with DH, that noscone needs to be blue. I wonder if some lt gray vinyl stickers over those black hinges would work, to at least cover up the black in fighter mode.

Looks like this one, except packaged differently. linky

I'm ok with the metallic engine covers, but egads - that weathering/battle damage looks horrible (inconsistent and unrealistic). Please don't do this with Thundercracker...

I give the nod to Max only because he defeats her repeatedly in a VF-1 vs. a Q-rau. To me, a non-FP VF-1 against a Q-rau should be toast, assuming equal piloting skills. Too bad we never see them match up in the same mech and in the same state of mind. EDIT - all his 1-on-1 victories that I remember were in atmospheric fights... maybe the story would have been different in space?

I think everything looks great so far! As far as making her look more like Misa, I suggest either a smaller forehead (maybe by building up a little more bang coverage), and build up the bridge of the nose a little bit to make her look less like a girley caricature, and more mature. And, of course a bit more sadness in the eyes

All I know is when I got my 1/55 Joons VF-1J back in '86, it put all my other transforming toys to shame. The transformation design and articulation were revolutionary for the time. The 1J remains my fave... the 1/55 1S and 1A heads are far too bulbous, even in my eyes as a kid. "Hey mom, look! I don't have to take off any boxing glove fists and attach a nose gear to transform into jet mode!"

In some blurry scenes at the end, he has both a black heatshield and black emblems on the fastpacks . That's how I prefer it (here's some older crappy shots w/ bad lighting).

Hey, those are pretty cool, especially the Super O and the Super CF. ...and surprisingly, less brick-like than many TFs !

HA! I'll believe that after you get one valk for each mode

Ahhhh... brings me back to that first time it took me 30 minutes and 3 heart attacks to transform my first 1/48

You can do either, assuming the paint line isn't so thick as to make contact with your fingers while handling. You can always paint without clear coating and see if it stays on. If it doesn't, touch up the panel lines and clear coat. IMO, if you use stickers and you handle your toys, clear coating isn't worth the trouble.

If you use a very thin lead pencil (0.3mm), the lead should be deep enough in the panel groove such that your fingers will never touch it. I guess some people use thicker lead, and have rub-off issues? Keep in mind, pencil lead darkens quite a bit if you clear over it. So by not clear-coating, you will have ultimate control over the final darkness of the line. I forgot to mention, an easy way to panel line darker plastic (fastpacks, gunpods) where pencil might not show up too well is Sakura Pigma Micron pens (0.25mm). These are alcohol-based artist pens that clean up with spit/water when applying, but stay on pretty well after drying. Here's some examples of the Pigma pen on fastpacks and gun (these were my first attempts, so don't laugh):

Seriously, for a white valk and your first time, go with a 0.03mm mechanical pencil. For the little amount time it will take you, the results will be fine and you do not need to clear coat. I play with my valks, and the panel lines do not rub off at all. Take a look at Swoosh's M&M VF-1Js in the "strike a pose" thread for a better visual. This full frontal of my avatar valk will also give you a better idea of what pencil looks llike:

Excellent choice, my friend. You won't regret it. Be careful of these guys when transforming, or adding FAST packs.

So if Yamato stays close to 1/60 scale on their upcoming VF-11B, is this what we can expect? (Squidd's pic)

Ditto... I've saving my hard-earned money for Ivanov version 2, and the VF-11

I know ... why not on the SV-51, Yamato!

So Yamato really isn't going to paint the canopy frames, and they're gonna leave the landing gear naked zinc diecast?

Looks like MP Thundercracker will have a black radome? If so, I hope they go all-out G1 toy color scheme on him (black tail fins, metallic saphire blue - instead of some bastardized real-world color). This photoshopped MP starscream pic I found has me yearning.

Hey I had that kit back in 1987 , except mine was vintage 1983-85, when the kit came with hi-vis Starfighter decals - your right, the instruction sheets are exactly the same, except the decal instructions. They could have had the decency to use their only "slightly" newer F-14A+ kit, which at least had the correct GE engine tailpipes.