ghostryder

I managed to get the DVD copied onto my hard drive a an ISO image file on a virtual drive. Fo some reason, I can't get the filed decrypted to IFO format files in the demux file folder. Looks like they are in ISO format? I'm not too savvy with this stuff, so any help would be appreciated.

Anyone know how to do this? edit - nevermind, i saw Tarz's post on page 5, I'll try to make a hard drive rip of DVD before decrypting... Anyone get a read error during decryption, about 47% through the process? I can't figure out if it's just something wrong with my disc. . Same thing happened when i try to rip a copy.

models page It's 1/100 (see page bottom).

Has anyone tried auto polishing compound (i.e., exterior renewer) for paint removal? It might be less abrasive than Brasso and thus less likely to scratch up the plastic. Then again, it could mean hours of fun-filled rubbing.

Some comparison pics I stole from our board members... 1/60 pods look good to me. Anyone got a pic of the Hasegawa pods (fighter kit) compared to the Yamato pods? If they are in-between the 1/60 and 1/48 size-wise, they might be the perfect size for the 1/48.

I've got a 1/60 UUM-7 pod here. The missile is about 0.133" in diameter, making it about 8" scaled up. Seems like the Yamato 1/60 miisile pod may be closest to a realistic size. Heck, even if you scaled the 1/60 missile up from 1/48, the missile would be over 6" wide. Of course, 1/60 missile pods would look too small in compared to anime mounted on a 1/48. I guess nobody is right

In the atmospheric fight scene between Max an Millia in DYRL, all three valks had UUM-7 pods mounted.

I would rather have had proper scale missile pods than a handy storage box Maybe they are scaled correctly for fighter mode, but if so, they'd sure add a lot of drag in the atmosphere.

Anyone have "official" dimensions of the UUM-7 missile pods? I noticed that they are frackin huge on both the Hasegawa models and Yamato 1/48. IMO, they look rather silly, especially in batteroid mode with the wings extended. The scale of the pods on the 1/60 is much better I think. The classic Max -1S pose is naked batteroid w/ UUM-7 pods, but the look is ruined by these gargantuan boxes hanging off the wings.

Toonz Okay, found a local source. Do you recommend soaking the whole piece in thinner, or rubbing with a cloth/swab? Thanks

Thanks... know of any good sources for this (or any substitutes) stateside, or is it only available overseas?

*This thread should be moved to the model/toy customizing section* I know this is an old thread, but has anyone come up with a better way to remove the paint from the heatshield? Skull-001's instructions are a bit confusing, as I thought the skull was tampo-printed to the underside of the heatshield, and then painted over. Is the tape just meant to protect the glossy surface of the outside?

I say hang onto your first edition Hikaru 1S's until samples can be reviewed next year. Yamato hasn't been able to consistently print straight skulls since 2003.

EXO What's that blue called? I'm thinking of using either the Krylon or Rustoleum sail blue for painting the trim for a 1/48 DYRL Max 1S, and it's hard to tell which brand matches better. The Krylon you used looks pretty close, maybe a tad dark. The sail blue seems to macth the Tamiya french blue used by Wicked Ace on his Roy-to-Max conversion. FWIW, I used the light gray Krylon Fusion on a resin recast head and bandai 1/55 (chestplate area), and got a very smooth, rock-hard semi-gloss finish. No surface prep needed on either the resin or plastic.

Just wanted to note that tailfin photos are courtesy of Valk-1S. original thread

looky here

Were you pushing the back hatch into the body PAST the two little tabs to lock it, and then using the little hook to hold the backpack in place? It should not flop over! I feel your pain, I confess I almost did the same before I read the transformation booklet carefully. Good luck with the repare.

That's sick... Kakikazi does not deserve such a nice ride, as it would be doomed to blow up

Supposedly, the second issue has straight skulls. To me, it looks like 1, 3, and 4 have the skull tilted too far counterclockwise, and 2 has the skull tilted a hair too far clockwise. So if you want perfect, it would be somewhere between 2 and 3.

I don't know of any lineart, but maybe these variable resin kit pics will help?

It looks pretty much the same to me, except the red and green lions bend differetly at the waist for that "cat's-ass-in-the-air" pose. The black lion is slimmer (a good thing for the lion), but makes the robot look skinny and less intimidating. Also, maybe Voltron's knees bend now?? That leaves very little lion leg to connect with the blue and yellow lions. I predict a floppy loose mess with legs that fall off when your dog farts in the next room. Damn, I gotta search my folks house for my old lions. It did kick ass back in the day

These are so gay... maybe acceptable for a happy meal toy? Is it me, or does Darth Maul look like Rosie the robot maid from the Jetsons? I could design a grill that transforms into George Foreman, doesn't mean it should be done.

Edit: jenius beat me, also agree that the leg packs should snap tight to the leg and fuselage. Hasn't there been threads about loose RMS missiles and backpack micromissiles? That's the case with my fastpacks, I don't think it's uncommon. Most people leave the micromissiles off the backpack, as you can't see them with the cover on anyways. I used a thin layer of krazy glue on the RMS missile pylon attachment nubs, and that made them fit on the wings much tighter. I also just glued the RMS missiles to the pylons - don't do this if you "pretend" to launch nukes at Zentran ships.

JBO Please keep with the holiday spirit if you must post My Little Pony porn..

What type of aircraft are you? WTF? Never would have guessed - EA-6B Prowler You are an EA-6B. You are sinister, preferring not to get into confrontations, but extract revenge through mind games and technological interference. You also love to make noise and couldn't care less about pollution.