ghostryder

According to this, yes... Chemical_Compatibilities_Housings_1_.pdf

Hmmm, a Masterpiece Evil Jetfire??

Guts... I have not used automotive paint, so I wouldn't know. They have touch-up paint that comes in 12-oz aerosol cans. I've only seen people use auto paint on 1/55s, I DO NOT KNOW HOW THE PAINT WILL REACT W/ YAMATO ABS!!! Auto paint usually has MEK, which could melt certain plastics. There, you've been warned I shot the trim tonight w/ some Minwax Polycrylic (waterborne)... seems pretty tough. This comes in both aerosol and open-top can, but for a small job like this I chose the aerosol. I was going to use Varathane waterborne, which is uspposed to be harder, but this will do for a piece that doesn't get banged around during transformation.

I've done some searches on this site, and the general consensus is that NO custom paint job will be 100% play-proof. Chipping and wear will be a given. The best you'll be able to do is use automotive paint, like Skull-1 uses, but then color choices will be limited.

A SV-51 would be sweet - even if Yamato had to beef it up to make a toy work, it would still look b1tchin'.

I'm no modeler, but based on my limited experience years ago - if you're using waterslide decals and will need to put a clear coat anyways, acrylics are the way to go due to easier to application and cleanup. If you'r half-a$$ing it like I do with spot paint and Takatoy stickers, enamels are the way to go for more durability. I PLAY with my toys, so another top coat over model enamels would even be better. For stuff like Krylon or Rustoleum, I don't bother with the clear coat. Anyone try waterborne finish on a custom toy? That stuff is tough as nails and won't yellow, but doesn't conform to parts as well. I finished a 1/60 with that stuff, and all went well except for the stuff not adhering at all to the stock Yammie stickers.

Well, close enough for guv'ment work. Testors white (about 1/3 bottle) with 2 drops black and 1 drop brown (this is Testor's standard orangey-yellow diarrhea brown). After filling in the verniers black and paneling the trim, I want to use a nice dull clearcoat that doesn't yellow to protect the paint. Any suggestions? Do acrylic clears yellow less than lacquer clears? ... and the battroid mode pics will have to wait until I finish my 1J head

Thanks! ...uh....but that's just a touched-up picture . I can only hope to get it to look that good for real

I've always wanted a 1/60 scale perfectly variable VF-1 with a good looking sculpt. Yamato had demonstrated that metal swing bars and landing gear can be small with the VF-0, so I see no issues with using the same design from the 1/48 on a 1/60. The only things that will need to be changed are - get rid needless metal content, get rid of the gimmicks, fatten the nose cone to accomodate swing bar lock (1/60 needed a nose job anyways), and maybe sacrifice retractable hands for fixed articulated ones. However, given that this will come at the expense of new Mac+ toy production and will piss off 1/60 collection holders, I'll be happy with 1/48s.

Although I personally like the CF biege-gray better, I think Shin's blue-gray scheme will be easier to pul off in ABS, unless they actually weather the CF.

I cannot believe how much better this valk looks with the option stickers. It's like, from Galaxy Defender to Lord Vader's fighter ... I may have to get one just to use up my extra low-vis stickers.

Hah, I'm not sure whose idea it was originally. I did up a Bandai CF like this before the 1/48 stealth came out, but I know some MWers have also done some custom 1/48 low-vis schemes with a different trim color along the chest plate chamfer.

BTW, this is all the white I wanted to add (bow down before my awsone MS Paint skilz!). Maybe there's enough variability between the plastic white and the existing white paint on the wings and fins to give me some room for error on the color match...

All of the schemes you mention are fan based creations that were featured in Model Graphix magazine, only one of which (the Minmay Guard) was ever produced by Hasegawa as a kit. 411752[/snapback] Awsome, thanks.

After doing some more searching, I found the model magazines section. I'll just assume the alternate schemes were from Hasegawa, unless someone has some info to share.

Also, in order to store enough conventional jet fuel to loiter and fight in battroid mode, the Zero needs to have some size. Even with the sheer size, FAST packs and dorsal CFTs were added to increase the Zero's range/combat endurance. That's why smaller fighters like the Legacy Hornets and Fulcrums have crummy range, while behemoths like the Flanker don't.

You're right, big daddy's gun was in the shop getting detailed. Hikaru: "Your'e looking a little small today, Sempai. Let me take that big gun off your scrawny little arms." Roy: "Read the box, baka! My gun's bigger AND it's only 1/60..."

Great, glad it worked. Now it's your turn to bust open the elbows and fix those. Let me know how it goes

Thanks, I will try this!

Okay, please move if this is a newbie question- What's the source of the Blue Roses schematic (or for that matter, Minmay Guard & Enigma). Are these decal options on the Hase model kits, or do they have some relavence to the Macross story line and/or pertain to a specific base location? I was thinking of using some custom stickers for a CF, but didn't want, for example, a CF brownie with moon based squad markings.

Considering only a new head needs to be sculpt, I'd say the 0A will come sooner (this year). The 0A head is fast becoming my favorite VF-1/VF-0 head. So functional and bada$$ at the same time. It will be mine, oh yes.... Sorry agr33, I'm stealing your Hase batt kit pic...

Paypal sent for 1/60 Zero sheet

Yeah, first the swing-bar pin, now this . Midnight toy mods + 2 little kids = lost bits 'n boobs

I knew I should have taken more pics... anyhoo, the white thigh halves are held together by 1 long screw, and only the back seam is lightly glued (on mine anyways). I was able to break the glue joint no prob. Once you do that, there are 2 tiny screws that hold the lower gray pieces above the knee. The swivel socket and stem are inside these gray pieces. Just spread about <1/2 mm of 1-ton epoxy on one flat side of the swivel joint, let set, and put back together. I didn't even bother to re-glue the white thigh halves. Next up, I may try the elbow swivels, but those don't bother me as much. edit - watch out for those 2 metal pins inside the thighs, almost lost 1! Two more for the road... now where's that darn pitot tube??

Thanks for the tips. Actually, I just wanted to add some minor trim detail to a CF to make it slightly less blahh... so maybe a perfect match won't be necessary .