ghostryder

Brian, I assume that the GBP plastic is ABS just like the 1/48. Have you tried this stuff on non-white 1/48 plastic, like a CF? I wouldn't want to deal with perma-frost...

I tried to find an MSDS on that stuff but couldn't. Model styrene plastic is similar to ABS in terms of what toasts it and what doesn't, but there are still some things that will eat ABS more than model styrene. I might soak a valk piece in ethanol tonight just to try. The worse that could happen is absolutely nothing. Will report later with pics.

The 3-disc perfect collection has the full version with vocals (disc 2, track 14). I don't believe they included a Karaoke version on this collection, assuming that's what he's looking for.

Heh, I don't touch the hard stuff (anymore). Does the 400 grit sandpaper leave scratches on the plastic, or are you just using it to rough up the paint for the alcohol to penetrate? Have you soaked a part in isopropyl before with any affects?

I took some liberties interpreting "F" See second page of attachment for a full list of crap you should/should not dunk your precious in. solvent_compatibility_2_1_.pdf

I mentioned in an earlier thread that 90% isopropyl alcohol removes the stock Yamato paint when rubbed with a cotton swab. I haven't had the guts to soak a part overnight, for fear of damaging the ABS. According to chemical compatibility charts, isopropyl alcohol gets a "B" for compatibility w/ ABS ("A" being "no effect" and "F" being "your valk is toast"). One of the things on the chemical chart that got an "A" for compatibility was ethanol (booze). For kicks, I got myself a bottle of 190 proof (95%) Everclear and tried the swab test - works just as well as isopropyl! I may try soaking a 1/48 part for my next project. Anyone try ethanol for removing valk paint?

Graham, Will we find out anything more on the type/amount of Tampo printing before the next magazine pics are released?

Heh, being picky about which $160-$200 hunk of plastic to buy does not equate to having a va9ina, my friend . Financing from selling guitar crap will be in next week. I've decided to get the VF-0A AND the SS fastpacks. The 0A is just PRIMED for customization, so I can't resist that. The SS FPs will grace my Hikaru 1S.

Thanks for the tips. When I was a kid, I used to cut up those plastic bags used to store computer components (clear with blue-green metallic film) and glue them to clear plastic parts for the same effect. May try that if all else fails.

It's a TV/DYRL bastard just like the VF-1A CF. For a TV head, check out the pics test forum to see what NMB4M is working on - sweetness...

For hose who have/have seen the latest issue of the Hikkie 1A, do they have straight skulls? Just trying to predict what the new Max/Kakizaki 1As will have.

Well, that image is burned in my head now (DYRL max w/ stealth FPs). Thanks a lot...

Yeh, when I saw this I was frantically searching for yet another thread on a new Yamato release

The problem is, will HFH approve an anime-corect Shin scheme if he's claiming there should only be 1 gray -0A scheme?

I only have 2 1/48s and a VF-0S. Although the VF-0S is different, I find myself still favoring the 1/48s just a little for their sleeker looks and playability (they are toys, damnit!). I'd be buying the 0A for the awsome head sculpt (the best IMO) and just to have a gray scheme. I'd be buying the SS because, I hate to say it, the whole unrealsitic paint scheme looks frackin tight witht the FPs. I still have some more guitar crap to sell before I can justify buying either, so maybe Yamato will release yet ANOTHER new scheme before I have to make up my mind

Just find yourself another expensive hobby and switch off when you lose the passion. Then you can sell off crap from one hobby to finance the other.

try this thread pics of sheets I still say paint over those skulls and do Blue Roses

Go spend your $$ on your family for a while and enjoy. I have to remind myself all the time that I'm a family man and not just a big ugly kid with too much $$. Makes me much more selective and anal about what I buy.

Or just give us 2 sets of tail fins and tampo print UN SPACY everywhere. Those fins come right off anyways

Ah crap, guess you could also go to the source: Takatoys

30, wife (6 years married), 2 mini-ghostryders (3yrs and 9 months), and only 5 valks. It's only been over 1 year since saw the light and woke up from my Robotech coma...

True, but didn't all the 0As in the series have UN SPACY on the legs and fastpacks? I actually don't mind not having squadron markings or numbers, but making those UN SPACY stickers look good over deep panel lines is a farkin' pain.

What's the best product/method for giving a nice reflective iridescent coating to plastic? I've always hated the 1/48 -1J cyclops eyepiece, and though thtis would be a cool easy way to cover it up.

Can't help you on waterlsides, but if you want stickers, Takatoys makes 2 versions of the low vis/option sheet with markings for low vis (skull), blue/red roses, and enigma. He pulled all the pics off his sale thread, so he may be sold out. Twinmoons may have some of his older sheets left (see attached), and also has Devin's waterslide decals in multiple choices. If you get the older low vis option sheet, there are gray skulls (only 2) and gray kites. I like the gray better than the white on the SS. Personally, I'd use the blue roses markings (there are more stickers for that scheme to plaster over your tailfins, heatshield, and fastpacks). I can't stand that they printed the skull over the panel line on the tail fins Twinmoons

Seriously, if you have a 1st run and your tail spikes DIDN'T bust off, be grateful and enjoy your toy. The VF-0 will never be as rock solid as the 1/48 no matter how much they tweak it.