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ghostryder

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Everything posted by ghostryder

  1. I will consider that... Aren't the recasts made of clear resin, and how well does clear resin sand?
  2. Anyone have tips/warnings on how to sand down the thickness of a Yammie 1/48 canopy? Specifically, I wanted to slim down the exterior sides (the bulbous part) to reduce the bloated look when viewed from the top. Looks like the interior was molded around a semi-circular section (more or less), and thickness was added to the sides to give the bulbous effect. I estimate as much as 2-3 mm to work with. I was originally thinking of slowy wet sanding (rough to super-fine grit) until I got a smooth surface. Yes, I know I'm asking for trouble
  3. Hey Mog, I love your nukes! Ditto on this one - 1/48 Super Stealth (Blue Roses Redux) - not a true "custom", but more of an enhancement (paint stripped from rear fuselage and thighs; painted upper arms, intake covers, intake fans; and new eyepiece).
  4. This is the stuff I used to repair the 0A shoulder - strong as hell and slightly ductile so it will not crack. The shoulder was broken without any sign of binding. This problem is inherent to the VF-0A I think, where Yamato added screws to skinny joints to fix the VF-0S looseness. Overtightening in the factory?? YF-19 joint material looks to be the same material. If the YF-19 has similar screws, I'd saw watch out, if not, it probably won't be an issue.
  5. Not familiar enough with transformation, would that result in the equivalent of the YF-19's "gullet"? I suppose that's unavoidable to accomodate the beefy front landing gear. You don't like DD's scheme? It's one of the coolest canon Macross schemes IMO.
  6. Ditto... my first RT.com purchase
  7. I only hope that if they make one, they won't have to fatten up everything up to make the toy work. The spindly alien look is what sets this mecha apart from the rest.
  8. OK, I just used some 2-ton epoxy and I think the crack is fixed (for now). Epoxy is much stronger than Krazy glue, and seems to flex a bit to allow the shoulder socket to expand a bit as you jam the ball back in. I think the off-white kind (which I used) is a bit stronger than the clear kind, so you might want to try that. I can at least pull this off without the left arm falling
  9. It's too bad they haven't made any Zentran/Meltran CMs figures (other than macronized DYRL Max... ewww). The scale of the figures would match well with the 1/100.
  10. You may want to open up the shoulder to check if it's just loose, or cracked. I developed the same looseness problem and found this... (motherfrack!)
  11. Yes, I'm aware of this (and I apologize in advance for the rehash...) The thing that irks me is that we all know that having hero/main character valks in different color schemes is a silly notion - I mean why did the DYRL valks come in a rainbow of colors? Regardless, if they make a toy for an anime, it should look like it was portrayed in the anime. Yamato: Here's our prototype Hikaru VF-1S... SK: Get rid of the red and black stripes, I never should have given the Skull squadron Power Ranger colors. they should have all been low-vis, excpet for Roy (takes a long drag and reflects). Yamato: But... that's how it was in the movie (coughs from smoke) SK: Tough titties, that's my final decision. Yamato: What about when we sell the Strike Pack? SK: (stares out in space)... Oh WTF, you can add the color stripes back for the gift pack, but keep the main color low-vis. Yamato: What about the stand-alone Strike Pack set for those who don't want a non-canon quasi-bastardized Valk? SK: Make it jungle camo... (leaves meeting room)
  12. I still feel more screwed by HFH - I mean, now we have TWO 0A variants that aren't anime-accurate. I would have jumed on both the CF and Shin if they were anime-accurate, but as-is, I'll just stick with the CF and save my $$ for YF-19 version 2.0 and other new designs.
  13. Looks like there's white stripes along the shoulders and forearms as well.
  14. Custom 1/48 VF-1J Cannon fodder
  15. An in-scale DYRL Milia would be over 6' tall... unm... that's all I'm gonna say
  16. Diecast Model noob question- Are there any decent diecast 1/72 F/A-22 models out there? The only ones I've seen still have the nose probe, or have fugly paint jobs.
  17. Great... I was doing fine looking at the Yamato promo shots, convinced I did not want this toy. Sebastian's pics make it look better at every angle...
  18. Don't mind at all - at least you had the guts to clear-coat. Hope your gray match is better than mine... LET'S SEE THE PICS!
  19. I feel the same, TC always gets the shaft. I believe he's the lowest ranking of the three, and the dumbest IIRC, based on those old G1 tech-specs. I'm wondering, has there been a current toy that's been able to pull off the metallic efffect in molded plastic? The old G1 TC color was immaculate. I'd hate to see a Masterpiece TC with all kinds of metallic swirls in it, like the VF-0 feet for example. What would really kill the toy's metallic finish would be stress marks. If only they could use the same plastic as the G1s - that stuff was tough as nails and it looked great.
  20. True, I suppose to be totally cartoon-accurate, it would need a yellow canopy.
  21. Skywarp Repaint Is this for real, or just another custom? It's in the Takara display at Kotobukiya Shop
  22. A thin swipe of clear 2-part epoxy around the leg tabs also works. I used Krazy glue on my 0A cause I was in a hurry, made sure to ventilate the toy well while drying to prevent perma-frost. I hope everyone on this board falls in this category
  23. Well, the leg-to-backpack tabs still aren't as tight as they need to be to keep the legs from popping off when I zoom the plane around in your house... err, I mean when my kid zoom the plane around .
  24. ghostryder

    1/48 GBP

    Looks to be the same dark olive drab color, just significantly different lighting/background cast. I dig it, more than the previous GBPs, but it won't really match any stock 1/48.
  25. Back to the 1/100 VF-1... I tried to fix the high backpack problem by shaving the center nub that the central backpack thruster nozzle butts up against in fighter mode. I also filed down the arms a bit, just to the point before the panel lines were about to disappear. I think it helps the fighter mode quite a bit. I hate to say it, this thing has one of the better nose and canopy sculpts that I've seen, which is better than the 1/48 of 1/60 in overall proportions. Legs are still way too skinny :
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