Opus

They're all pussies compared to Charles Bronson. Arnold included.

The hands come off. They're really tight but mine pulled straight off. The wierd thing is that a post in the arm goes into a hole on the hand. I checked all of my other robot toys to see if thier hands would fit and it seems like everything else works on an opposite priciple with a post on the hand and a hole in the arm.

My hands wre all jacked up too. I ended up gluing them in a fixed pose and popping them off for transformation before I finally got pissed and sent it back to Toynami.

Use the search function and all will be revealed. This question pops up about once a month.

That folds in to make room for the canopy in robot mode. How do I pop it out again to make it flush in fighter mode? I hook the gunpod's stock under it to pull it up.

I think it can be a bit over. You just can't put more LEDs than the adapter is rated for. There are probably lower rated adapters out there as well. I'm no expert, I just picked an easy to find adapter. Personally I would experiment with a mock up first. Radio Shack sells a sack of 20 LEDs for about $3. Having things blow up in your face is half of the fun of figuing out something new.

Right. Use an adapter that puts out 800mA to pump juice through a device that cannot handle more than 10mA. You still need a resistor to limit the current through an LED so that it doesn't burn out. From his diagram it looks like the whole thing is wired in paralell. According to the page I linked his 15 10mA LEDs would need a 150mA adapter. A 6v 300mA adapter would do the job just fine.

You guys might be over thinking this one. Have you read this? http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/mh_led.htm You should find the info you need to calculate the output of an adapter in this article. Resistors shouldn't be necissary with an adapter, that's the whole point of using one.

It seems to me that since the job of an adapter is to convert alternating to direct current you could get one with the same rating as your batteries and wire your LEDs straight to it. Keep in mind I'm not an electrician but I do have what my friends call the "Mc.Guyver Touch".

I honestly don't understand the Hollywood trend to remake movies that don't need to be remade. Flash is perfect just the way it is. As a matter of fact it's one of my all time favorite movies. The only good thing I can see coming of this is a possible resugance of interest in the original Flash Gordon which could lead to DVDs of the 1930's serials (if they still exist).

Unless they start a new production run to compensate foy the units taken off the market. When I get my replacement I think I might keep it MIB and see how much I can get for it in few years.

I wanna play too.....

Hopefully Toynami will learn from thier mistakes and use a different factory and sturdier materials on the next two. Needless to say I wont be buying another Toynami product unless it gets 100% rave reviews.

When you take the hip joint apart all you need to do is sand some of the paint out of the socket and the rubber piece should stay in. You shouldn't need to glue it. For the gunstrap rings twist them to the side rather than pulling them apart so you don't distort the shape of the ring. I hope that makes sense.

I hear you but mine is #01831 and it basically exploded right out of the box (read through this thread from about page 73 on for details) so either you got lucky or I got a lemon but since more people have found problems with thier pre 3000s than havn't I'd say you lucked out.

I hate to to tell you but Flash Gordon(1980) is the first film to feature a Queen soundtrack. A kick ass one at that.

I have a sinking suspicion that that is the real reason for the different versions and the paint on the intakes was changed in an attempt to distract us.

Well fellas, toynami is going to exchange my alpha for a new one. Cross your fingers and pray I get a good one. EDIT: cain't speel

I'll tell Graham what I used to tell my troops. There will be plenty of time to sleep... when you're dead.

I used this scale converter http://users2.ev1.net/~jimbobwan/scalcalc.htm and with a length of 10.25m in fighter and the toy being about 24.13cm it came out to around 1/42nd scale.

Look at my pic on page 74 and you'll see where that washer goes. It's a massive design flaw that should have never been made. The washer pops out during T-formation. This is why everyone has floppy arms. The washer needs to be glued onto the post on the bicep. I did this and no more flopy right arm. Ah, I remember that picture now. Is the bicep easy to take apart? Mine came apart pretty easily but it already had a big gap in it. You may be able to put the washer back in without taking it apart though. If you lift up the dicast piece and flip up the tail fin you can see where the washer goes. I think you could use some forceps or tweezers and alot of patience to get it back in. edit: got bored and drew a diagram.

Look at my pic on page 74 and you'll see where that washer goes. It's a massive design flaw that should have never been made. The washer pops out during T-formation. This is why everyone has floppy arms. The washer needs to be glued onto the post on the bicep. I did this and no more flopy right arm.

Then you'd have no reason to go to thier site and buy the DVD.

Nah, I'm only listing actual broken parts, not floppy limbs, otherwise the list would be a mile long already Graham So true. Opus, How did you take your arm apart? The more I look at mine, the more it seams like the rubber washer just came off. The other arm actally holds poses. It is a night and day difference. Are the screws under the missles? Was it a pain to take apart? I hope the arm is not just glued together. There are no screws. I used an exacto and ran it along the seams and the two halves popped right apart though.

Actually the rubber bits are already in there they just wont stay on. Thats why I took mine apart(plus it had a huge ass gap in it). I glued the rubber piece onto the post and it seems OK now. I also glued the hands but now I can't transform him. Anyone know a good replacement ? I considered using 1/60 hands but they're so fugly. I plan to email Toynami but I'm going to wait a few days until I'm less pissed so I can be civil about it. I hope they can replace the broken parts and not the whole thing since it's a pre 3000 and it has a decent paint app.