

pengbuzz
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Why cause a perfectly good holodeck to detonate?
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- star trek
- patrick stewart
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I meant dip the sponge in the paint and dab it on. I don't recommend you spray the sponge; that would be messy and your wife may question your sanity.
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You could use a sponge...
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1/6 VF-1S by MoWorksShop in Australia
pengbuzz replied to nightmareB4macross's topic in The Workshop!
Or glare at it so it moves on its' own! o.o -
Yes, and Brian May received it!
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okay: (I know: not quite what ya meant! ) Seriously though: most major construction on the new VF-1J is nearly complete; I just have to finish the fighter cockpit and a couple of other things. Then we can get to painting soon (hopefully). They're selling our apartment building again, and I truly resent the circus of potential buyers that stream through here when that happens, with little to no regard for our life here. Stay tuned...
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Where's Discount Spock when ya need him?
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Thanks; eventually (Lord willing) I'd like to do a second VF-1A in Ben's colors, as well as Max and Miryia's valk's.
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For that shoulder joint, I would get the hub off the main body and unscrew the stub stuck in there. after washing it and the part on the arm with 91 percent alcohol, use #0000 grade steel wool to give some "tooth" to both sides and blow the residue out with compressed air. Then, use Permatex Plastic Welder (two-part adhesive system) to fix the parts back together and let cure overnight. After that, use a very small pin vise hand drill to clean out the screw hole and extend the screw hole deeper into the arm section. Slightly sand and file around the outside of the repaired post to remove excess Plastic Welder material and alleviate the tightness of the joint. Replace the screw with one the same diameter but slightly longer lengthwise (so that way stress isn't being put on the repaired section, as it looks like where it broke was the end of the original screw). After that, it's just a matter of reassembling the joint and checking it to make sure it functions correctly. I'd also use some Locktite on the screw to keep the screw fron loosening up.
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Plan: mail your SOC to me so you can buy the ThreeZero version! Seriously though: while the ThreeZero version looks good, I never liked hiding the legs on the lions. Hips still look too narrow to me, but that's just me.
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- Voltron
- Beast King Golion
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UPDATE: Well, got 3 things going on right now, but the 1st one (VF-1J Rebuild) is on hold until I get an issue settled with one of the transform joints. Meantime, progress on the other 2 to report: 1) The VF-1A "Cannonfodder" is approaching completion: Yeah, I know the roundels are the wrong ones (destroid version); I don't have any spares of the red with white delta on them (need the ones I have for Hikaru's Vf-1J that I'm working on). I figure since the valk is in brown shades, maybe its' a bit more forgiveable? Anyways, pics in fighter mode: It just needs a few touch-ups still, some weathering (wash/drybrushing, panel fading) and some minor details added (certain stripes, verniers painted in/ decaled). Otherwise, it's pretty well done. Now onto project 3: the removable armor for the VF-1's: I managed to rescue the Mauler RO-X2A dual laser cannon from the other project (which died when our upstairs neighbor's bathroom leaked water through our ceiling!) and rework it to fit the new boosters: I found that by clipping off the attachment pegs for the fronts of the boosters and sanding them down to where they still hold friction, the fronts can be removed while assembled and replaced on either side with the Mauler cannon (which I added a square peg onto after copying it from the missile pod fronts): As for attaching the armor: I got 12 neodymium magnets (and have 2 larger ones as well); my plan is to glue thin metal plates onto all 3 valks, while attaching the boosters to one main bracket that will slot in between the "backpack" and the back, with a larger magnet in the bracket and the plate on the valk's back (said plate painted the same color as the valk's hull). The arm and leg armor will get 2 magnets each to attach them to similar metal plates, while tabs that slot into the valk at certain points should help keep them in place: Stay tuned folks... more to come.
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That might be an actual tie with Isamu vs. Guld; as pointed out though: all we saw was "screenshots" really. Still, I wish we could have seen that full-on!
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More like Saved By The Bell Phaser.... Kurtzman must be going through the garbage bags of every rejected Star Trek pitch that Paramount ever threw away since TOS.
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- star trek
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More like Saved By The Phaser....
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My first contact with Macross was through the Revell RT model kits as well; though I had never even ehard of the GTC catalog (and a shame I hadn't, as Ron would have gotten a lot of my money back then if I had! ).
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I think someone needs to design a pineapple mech with a pineapple pilot to fly it...
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I would disassemble those arms at the shoulder joint before transformation, get that mushroom cap joint out, drill the center out and plastic weld a metal rod in there. If it's that fragile and stiff, disassembly and reinforcement would be called for anyways.
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ROFL!!!
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You can make your own out of wire and other home materials: As for sand, you can use baking soda and simply paint it once it's sprinkled onto a glue covered surface.
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YF-19 vs YF-21; the entire OVA series was about their rivalry! Project Supernova for the win, baby!!!!
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Which one the best to buy, Arcadia YF-19 or DX YF-19
pengbuzz replied to Vintage Fanboy's topic in Toys
You could always get them both, take them both apart, and use the best of both to build a perfect YF-19. -
Just simple hand tools and a motorized tool. But anyone can do it with hand tools; my arthritis makes the rotary tool necessary.
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Thanks! The head was made from 1/8 inch sheet styrene. I simply sketched the profile of it onto paper, traced it onto the styrene, then cut out one piece and used that as a template to trace and cut 3-4 more. I glued them together and put it under a stack of heavy books to make the glue "weld it" into one solid chunk. After that, it was a matter of using a rotary tool, craft knife ("xacto knife"), needle files, sandpaper and a huge metal file to refine the shape.
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UPDATE: Well, here's what I've been up to as of late- 1) Repairs on my 1/72 Armored Factory: 2) Building a new body for Hikaru's VF-1J (I switched to the newer model instead of trying to rework the old one, as red plastic and a white finish don't exactly work!): 3) I was finally able to fix the slider mechanisms on the old VF-1 body, but now had no head for it. So.... Where I'm at now: Still working on refining the paint job and need to get decals on this; I'll try to have some more pics tonight. Stay tuned...