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Everything posted by pengbuzz
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Okay, looks like I can post!
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Test
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Well... when I built my custom valk, it was a Zeta Plus that was the basis for the framework (I modded the daylights out of it):
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I think (just my opinion anyways) that the difference is that in the original Japanese productions, they treated the mechs (in this case, the mobile suits ) as a means by which to tell the story. The characters were the primary point and the story was set in a war drama that happened to be one where mankind is using an advanced combat system that is robotic by nature. In 'Murican productions, they treat the mech as the whole point and the characters are secondary tack-on's. You just don't get the tension, heartache, loss and pain that the original stories convey because Michael is too busy setting the fuse for the next 5 tons of TNT. on the "junkyard vomit robots beating each other back into scrap"... that pretty much sums it up.
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Bettr than what I ould do.. Going to be takng a break fr a while folks; health is nt good right now.
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For an dvanced race, the protoclture seemed a bit...careless...
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does anyone happn to have parts 117 and 118 fr the imai vf1 1/72 kit (slidrs for the chest)? tried fixng mine and the prts disintgrated sorry nt doing too well, has seizur last nght.
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[Netflix] Masters of the Universe: Revelation
pengbuzz replied to Old_Nash's topic in Anime or Science Fiction
Yeah. They also need to darken Adam/ He-Man's eyebrows a bit. They almost get lost in the scenes and he looks browless to me! O.o -
No... I'm a bit leery to put anything else in aside from lighting. I know I could use batteries, but those get expensive after a bit, and I'm not sure about trying for house current, as I'm no electrician, and I don't want to burn the base (and house) down. Otherwise, I'd love to put in much more lighting, sound effects, an electric motor for the elevator, screens to replay scenes from the cartoons, etc. I just don't know if I could do it in a way that wouldn't turn the cardboard into a fire hazard. Hence the solar powered light. If anyone has ideas though (folks here should know more about this than I do), I'm all ears. There's a member on TFW2005 (Maximal prime) who's doing the entire Ark and Mt. St. Hillary and his work puts mine to shame! https://www.tfw2005.com/boards/threads/w-i-p-g1-ark-diorama.1208935/ Seriously, check his stuff out; it absolutely ROCKS!!! He's nearly done with it!
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Currently working on my Transformers Activity Center: I just put in the new med center, and redid the landing pad: At least the gang seems happy with it:
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Yeah... with the loss of TRU in the states, that left many like Hasbro and such without a major venue for their collector's stuff in a brick and mortar setting. Kay-Bee Toys had been working on a comeback a couple of years ago, but they failed to launch when they couldn't get the financial backing together (it would have been a disaster anyways, given COVID and all). There used to be other places such as FAO Schwartz, Child Kingdom/ Child World and Toy Works (later merged with Kay Bee); now, it's pretty desolate. Then also consider retail stores like Caldors, Bradlees (mostly northeast US, admittedly) tanked, and K-Mart and Sears in the states are one foot in the grave (and the other sliding in) thanks to Eddie Lampert's BS "business practices", toy manufacturers have lost a lot of retail presence out there.
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- silverhawks
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Looks like they used the same body for both red and green, TBH. I wonder if they did that just to get the prototype shot up?
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- Voltron
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Honestly, I would just paint the blue on the edges and use a sharpy fineline marker if you feel you need it. otherwise, I'd just leave it off if I were you. It's going to be a pain that you just don't need bro.
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Double post
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BTW: HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!! I like doing the toys because they tend to be built stronger than the models. That said: I'm also willing to go to great lengths to correct the imperfections, and will even graft kit parts onto a toy if I deem it necessary. Well bro...you could always mail it to me.
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TALLY-HAAAAAAAAAAWWWWWWKKKKKKKKK!!!!!!!
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- silverhawks
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Must have gone to the Star Trek School of Greeblies (U.S.S. Stargazer)...
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Typically, steel does tend to be more resilient than aluminum at scale; it's one of the strongest metals out there per se. As for bluing, you could always heat it until it turned blue. :D
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Right? I'd love to try the Storm Attacker one and see how it would turn out!
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Super Macross Mecha Fun Time Discussion Thread!
pengbuzz replied to Valkyrie Driver's topic in Movies and TV Series
Did UN Spacy try to replicate the satellite after repairing/ restoring it (as in, build more of them)? If so, that would explain the Three-Star Heavy Industry Factory Ships in the New Macross Colony Fleets. -
One thing I do is make note of the transformation on my customs; I will make a diagram of all three modes with areas prone to scratch circled and notated. For example: on the VF-1 chunkies, the nose where the swing bar locks into place is ripe for scratches. To combat that, I use a paint like Krylon Fusion or Rustoleum "Painters Touch 2x" that actually bond to the plastic. I will also use the same clear coat as the Krylon or Rustoleum so I don't get formula conflicts (some paints don't play well with one another), and let the clear dry for 2-3 days before doing anything. Sanding: I use caution on sanding parts for "clearance", simply because some parts like the chunky's swing bar need that friction to lock into place. Examine how that part of the transform works and what you'd need to make it work with paint. In some cases, I will leave a part the plastic color and find a way to work it into the paint job as to not cause issues.
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Wish i could find one; I could use the gun pod...