Jump to content

pengbuzz

Members
  • Posts

    5637
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by pengbuzz

  1. As I described (and suspected).
  2. As best I can tell from watching extreme closeups on several videos: the front is one piece, and the back of the head is a left and right piece that combine to form the entire back half. It looks to be glued or sonically welder together; I recommend you go slowly and use caution.
  3. Just remember one important thing:
  4. More progress on the 1/72 shuttle: Stand is pretty much finished now; also finished the thermal blankets on the OEM pods: Still working on the tiles for the bottom; had to fill in part of it because the lines went off on bad angles: Yeah, it's kind of messy; I give up on trying to do any "clean" builds: More mess decals: Finished spacelab: Trying to source parts for a poseable CanadArm; we'll see how that goes. Meantime, finishing work on the Top Gun F-14 (not too happy with it but I'm not redoing the b*****d again. 😠 If it sill looks too dark, I'm painting the friggin' thing like an ice cream truck!!! I also need to photograph the 1/537 former cutaway TOS E, but I've just been unmotivated to do that.
  5. Well, the cruise wouldn't be named for it; it would just bring people there. As for leaving: nope. Although jerks who act up on the island would be given that as a punishment.
  6. ^ The definition of epic.
  7. That's basically what I did when I modified my G1 Devastator: made a waist, pelvis and articulated thighs w/ knee joints.
  8. I've heard of it, but I know LA totally awesome is safe for plastics; not sure about purple power.
  9. Right; that's why I suggested stripping it, and why I also suggested testing the stripping on sprue. I'd truly be upset with myself if something I recommended ruined a project on someone else!
  10. Sounds good.Iif you have any concerns about the process, you can always test it on a piece of sprue from that kit first.
  11. I've tried that, and it never worked well for me. I think you'd be better off priming over clean plastic than a surface like that, as the paint has a much better chance of staying on the model!
  12. If you're planning to paint that model in classic colors, I strongly recommend you strip the metallic finish off it before the attempt. L.A. Totally Awesome!! cleaner removes chrome safely and effectively; just let it soak overnight in it (available at your local Dollar Tree or dollar store).
  13. *wonders when the next sequel to Record of Lodoss War will be butchered made*
  14. They should probably do the "face" as a separate piece.
  15. Thanks MT!! That was the idea! On the note of finishes: I recently found out about a company called True North, that is making a lot of the colors Model Master used to (before Testors punked out), Here's their link: https://www.truenorthpaints.com/ AFAIK, the paints are alkyd enamels, but they have a pretty good selection. I found this site via a review linked on another forum: http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/misc/True_North/TrueNorthPaints/TrueNorthPaints.htm (NOTE: don't click the link the review has to the site: it's an old link that bounces back to modelwarships.com. Instead, please use the link I first posted)
×
×
  • Create New...