NZEOD

Expect a black lions one in a weeks time team

I'm assuming its simple enough to omit the Lil Drakens so the 31F can be built standard.

I'm going back to get some more. French ground crew for destroid techs and the black hawk helo pilots with body armour as destroids pilots for my wave destroids

Waves destroids were amazingly well designed so this one should be easy

Ok... I came across a source for 1/72 carrier deck figures from a guy in France who operates under the ReedOak label. Carlos, the guy making the €600 carrier deck dioramas has some of the figures in his diorama wip images painted plain white. As they were insanely detailed I assumed they were photoshopped images of real people... well... They aren't! You can actually see the damn ring binders on the Checklist SOP folder!! Sooooo me being me... I bought every different pose he had. And this just the US Navy crews. There are helo crews, RAF crews, Russian ones and French ones, men, women, Caucasian, African American.

If I touched alissas makeup products I'd be executed

It's not my colour polish

Check again... more images. Nail polish was for scale reference... these are 1/144

Another hangar nesting completion for my macross airbase

who was the Aussie printer?

Dude... seriously... Proud of how far and fast you've come with this

ah ha ha... ha well played

you better be joking. btw... the real jetfire is far less glamourous.

ahhh yes it will..... there are plastic types as well as glass now

I'll have a play with a set of wings over this easter holiday and see what options I can draw up on simplified wiring paths OR fibre optics.

smd resistors would fit inside the wings so in theory all the wiring could still fit between the top and bottom wing panels. To solder to SMD resistors takes a special kind of patience/madness and a really good soldering iron and tip. I fail at it often. Fullsized resistors could be hidden in the arms perhaps... 1/8w even smaller that 1/4

nope... its the Diodes themselves. They aren't made to exacting specs and so tiny differences can cause one LED to draw/suck a ton more current through it than the others regardless of the resistor. In parallel you really need a single resistor FOR EACH LED not one for all. Awesome little graphic link attached for what is likely happening with yours and causing the heat. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/22291/why-exactly-cant-a-single-resistor-be-used-for-many-parallel-leds Do you have spare wings? I'd suggest building up a new set of wings with a resistor on each LED (still outside the wing to avoid heat issues) so you'll have 6 wires and not 2 entering the wings. Sorry for bringing the bad news. If you continue with the original set you WILL eventually burn out the brighter LEDS. You want a 1/8W (blue body) 82ohm resistor (grey red black) for EACH white LED, the same for the blue LED and a 1/8W (blue body) 120ohm (brown red brown) resistor for the red I've based this on the 4.5v LiPo output. It will still work for 5V so your safe there.

Where is the resistor? not in the wing? The resistor converts electrical potential into heat.

next exercise for you... try random fade and colour flicker so your engines randomly flicker and fade BUT don't ever reach zero/off. That way your lighting will get more a throbbing effect than to flicker. So assign a value range from say... 120 to 255 instead of 0 to 255 - for those curious, LED fade is done on a value from 0 (off) to 255 (max intensity) with Arduino coding.

Naa that's not high... 10000 Milli Candela would be high. So that's not the source of the heat. What resistor are you using and hows it wired? 0402SMDs are the same ones I'm using in Alissas X-Wing miniatures and there are no heat issues

White glue works too

what mcd LEDS are you using?

Loctite them. Easier and it will work as well