NZEOD

so the Workroid model could be modded into a Cheyenne?

I dont think any of the current destroids were used as a base model for this one. The only part resembling them is the lower leg plates and even they look... wrong... for the Tomahawk/Phalanx/Defender legs.

Isnt it also the same one that was in Macross Zero? Its a Cod Piece weapon... highly effective STI defence

It was its most fun when it was Wasps, Valkyries, Stingers, Warhammers, Marauders, Victors etc and a few hover tanks and helicopters. 3025 was the best codex and the simplest. Back then my favorites were Battletech, Jovian Chronicles (which had THE BEST mecha figures ever, even to this day!) and Heavy Gear.

the interpretation of the Autocannons in Mech Warrior Online REALLY bug me! An IS AC20 is a single 120mm Slug, so its really a single shot Main Battle Tank gun. The Clan version on the other hand fires a burst of smaller slugs for the same total damage... but it means the damage can and will spread over a few locations which makes it way weaker!

wow that was fast!

its from The Kurita vs Kell Hounds 3025 era fiction. It wasn't written to be in the game. Basically The Kell Hounds Merc Commander Morgan Kell in an Archer (Spartan Destroid) called out the Samurai Units commander Yorinaga Kurita in a Warhammer (Tomahawk Destroid) to a one on one duel and during this duel when the Archer went down on one knee the Warhammer moved in to finish it but found it had electronically disappeared so all the shots went wide and keep bracketing the Archer but not hitting it... yes this is dumb as in the book the Warhammer was close enough to rest the PPC barrel in the shoulder of the Archer so who needs a targetter then... The fight ends in a tie and later Kurita learns how to do it too along with Patrick Kell, Morgans brother. But... Patrick still dies under Kuritas guns later. The best way to envision it is active stealth and ECM as I guess the Target gathering gear helps with the aim point and gun/beam convergence given how wide apart the Beam cannons are on a Tomahawk. Funny... I cant remember some things from Uni but I remember this useless crap from the books I read during breaks in study... annnnnnd then I see the 2007 dates on the posts I just answered... Too much time airbrushing laquers I think.

remember its scaled for a table top. Take that aspect away and I'm sure the fiction would have been written with kilometre ranges in mind and not hundreds of meters. Battlefleet Gothic is another example. In the books the engagements happen at 100000kms in the PC game and the board game its models right next to each other. Then you go play Warthunder on realistic mode and most kills come from god knows where way off in the trees some place a km or two away!.

The city fight moves slowly forward... Working on the layout and trying to figure out the heights of buildings to use and how wide to make the streets. These pics show a normal street with 2 lanes, parking space and sidewalks... think I need to add a centre road Island to get some more width.

The solution is to wrap them in a turn of fiol tape so the lights only projecting from the end. Remember also that you can get brutal with an LED on a sanding wheel and grind the clear over into any shape you want as long as you dont hit the Cathode/Anode cup. Grinding the top off flat then drilling it to a counter sunk cone makes a lens effect that directs the light into a thinner beam. I light pass with a mini blow torch will glaze the cutting and drilling back to transparent.

so perhaps our 1/72 vf-17 and VF-9 Cutlass isnt too far off then?

yes and no... its nice looking BUT... it comes with no instructions and there is some warping that needs heating to correct. But a a semi bonus it doesnt need a Bandai VF-25 as a base. Its a stand alone kit, not a conversion... except it is sometimes missing the cowling on the lower leg to exhaust nozzle part.

Sweet! I'll have a play tonight! Ok so standard single colour LEDs

I reckon get the flash to be max brightness cycling on/off in 300millisec bursts for 2 or 3 cycles then off for 2 seconds. That will be two seperate lines of coding in the sketch but the results should be good. What LEDs are they? Addressable RGBs? If so you could even get the flash to be white with the off state instead being green/red Nav lights are strobes to is a super bright quick on/long off state to grab attention. When I get my noise sketch sort (if I ever get it right) I'll pass that on and you can use it for the dash screen to slightly flicker fade like a TV screen does. Its good for Flame effects in engines too... if I get it to work right.

did the wings come in clear for this or did you make your own wings?

...with nothing interesting to see until AFTER the end date... dont forget, it would be a shame to get disqualified on a technicality like that.

hahha ok... its not??? I thought it was as was amazed at how accurately the side nose panels were the the "screen" shot with the black background!

nice tools

Start with a board that can run single colour LEDS then progress to Addressable LEDS then Sounds and Servos.

Its the same as what we are using but we buy direct. That stuffs been rebranded as Hobbykings Kingduino and an extra charge added. Try here instead: Sparkfun - the red boards from hobbyking Adafruit - the blue boards from Hobbyking

if you run it off a Trinket to have the tip lights flash, fade them down a bit too, especially that scree one. Maybe add in some noise so you get a random fade/flicker on the screen

yeah the leveler is a Retarding agent to slow down the drying

so which storyline is this one featured in?

lessons learnt today... Alclad chrome looks great but once alclad red goes over it things aren't so bright... Where as Model Master silver actually made for a good base for the Alclad red!