potatotomato

just a quick one, are the Arcadia exactly same as the 1/60 Yamato, or did they tweak, change, improved anything? how about the materials used on both?

Thanks, maybe i will wait 1 day to get decent Yamato. just wondering do the Yamato parts break like their other stuffs?

how do you guys prevent printed media from turning yellow or foxing out? i have some A4 posters but i don't dare to invest in expensive prints as they usually fox out especially if you display them. most frames ain't exactly air tight.

you guys are more hardcore than Gundam fans.

cost aside, how is this lineup compared to Yamato and newer Arcadia line? I know they are smaller 1/100 vs 1/60.

Anyone care to give some feedback on this line? Elintseeker is up, i always wanted one together with Ostritch but the Yamato was too expensive. Price for this Hi Metal ain't cheap, around same price as Yamato back in the old days, size wise i know it's way smaller, so hows it?

i wish they rerelease those SD vinyl kits. i know we have the much superior D-Style but those old SD kits looks cute.

1/24 stands around 12"? might be able to get a 1/6 action figure body wearing black jumpsuit and put the armors on it.

it's a reissue of the oldskool vinyl kit, you have to cut the parts out from the mold and sand before you start painting and i think you have to assemble them 1st or risk cracking the paint when you assemble it up. the lights are all non-transparent and you think we're in 2017 they could have at least given us transparent parts for that kind of price tag.

hi there. didn't know there's a patlabor thread here. i just built a 1/35 Patlabor recently i give you abit of insight: 1.Design wise IMO it's the best available Ingram in the market. The proportion might not be as accurate but definitely best looking. many times the Ingram looks bulky in the shows like the vintage Patlabor DX. Downside is the cockpit cannot be lowered as is permanently Up. 2.Poseability is limited by the rubber sleeves and armor spacings & lack of additional articulations. It's impossible to remove the nub marks and seam lines. you can only paint it using weathering powder and AB thin layers of clear flat on it. Anything else it would most likely crack when you handle them. You are stuck with fixed hands and the articulated hands are only good for gun griping. There is an elusive Manipulator upgrade upgrade pack from B-Club but i have not seen them outside Shaft Enterprise. Chest cockpit can be opened. 3.There is no full inner frame. i don't see any reason why because it's mostly covered by the armor & sleeves. Most joints are tightened using screws which is good. Only few parts like neck/cockpit/right wrist/right leg/feet has exposed frame that you need to paint (if you are going to paint them). Also the nub marks are located at obvious places so you'll have to sand them to look good. 4.Fitting can be abit loose/tight if you paint them. The Ingram 3 has bad fitting on the shoulder armor that leaves a big gap that requires putty (spacing on the shoulder lights section too narrow). The Chest section leaves a small gap between the white & black piece (even pro modelers have this issue). Not really noticeable since the lower piece is black. Lower Right leg revolver compartment has a big gap around the opening area and it's hard to get it fully opened. If you paint, the compressed stun stick might be too tight to fit the shield so you need to sand the holster, same goes for the Revolver clip. Orange shoulder light might be too tight if you paint. Head & Chest Antennas, Knee armor might be abit loose so you might want to glue them up. Rubber sleeves abit tricky to install you have to slot the sleeves into position before assembling the armors. Glue is needed to keep the shoulder sleeves together with the plastic round frame. It's easy to misalign the inner part of the shoulder lights so make sure they are in position before snapping the armor together. 5.There are Flash unit upgrade parts available in the WXIII Ingram 2 & Ingram Special box set which is compatible with normal Ingrams. you just need to use the LED set & back piece that came with the set. The non-LED parts are also included with all the sets. Installing the LED onto the shoulder part can be tricky especially if you putty & paint it. Even on the promo pics they did not putty the seams like they did with the non-LED release. Suggest cutting the armors out so you can post install the LED after putty & paint. it has 4 LED on front & 2 LED on rear for each side, the 2032 battery compartment & switch is located inside the backpack, you need to remove the black lower part of the back pack (clip on) to reach the battery & switch. You can check how they work on youtube. 6.All except Ingram Special Box comes with dry transfer & sticker type decal (J9 comes with dry transfer only). The dry transfer is very difficult to apply due to many curvy parts. I only managed to use the dry transfer on the shoulder, shield & backpack, for the rest i used the water decals from special box. Special Box set comes with Precut Water Slide decals for all 3 units. you have enough decals for all 3 Ingrams except the "Shinohara" tummy name plate (you get 2). Note it comes with parts for all 3 Ingrams but you can only build 1 complete Ingram with the box set. Box set comes with special high gloss finishing. This is the kind of kit that you need to paint few small areas to look good. WXIII Ingram 3 comes with different face armor than Normal & Special Box & they came with full transparent face armor so you have to paint white & semi-clear green on it. All pilot & figures come unpainted so you have to paint them as well. some clear parts come unpainted so you need clear orange & clear green. also gunmetal for the crotch tow wires. Normal 1 & 2 & Reactive Armors (1, 2+3), EX Command Car & another EX model are sold out, WXIII, Special Box, Ingram 3 & Griffon Flight & Aqua are still available. Special Box is a must have for it's water slide decals & patlamp flash unit. it also has enough spares to convert any ingram to any other if you can't find for example Ingram 3 you can convert Ingram 2 to 3 after building a full ingram. Main difference are the shoulder armors & head. Also Reactive Armor 2+3 comes with different unit 3 Head (movie ver) that is used in the Patlabor PSOne Game on normal Ingram 3 body. Each release comes with some different 1/35 human figure(s), you have to get Special Box, Reactive Armor 1, 2+3, Griffon both types & Command Car to get all the figures available. B-Club also released 2 rare conversion kits for Early Days OVA Ingram 1 & 2. Patlamb flash unit was also sold separately. No comments on Griffon yet as it's still under construction. I read there might be some fitting issue on the leg armor. If you are interested, "Patlabor Model Works Memories" has a rather detailed information on them and has alot of great mods from famous modelers in Japan. It's an updated version of the Patlabor 3D from 2002. There's also Patlabor 3D Show vol 1,2,3, Diorama book that covers older bandai kits. When you look back at it, it's pretty impressive what Oldskool modellers can do with the less superior old kits. you can also see how the modelling & painting techniques has evolved over time. Overall. If you like Mechs, Patlabor kit is something you should not miss despite it's short comings.

Anyone getting this guy? Tempted to get it but not sure where to display it. I actually prefer Mazinger Z but the price is too high for him now. I skipped Gunbuster because i prefer the Greyish Brown on the 1st release, new one seems Blueish.

hi, for Gloss i prefer Future Floor because it's the cheapest compared to what you get for a small bottle of hobby coats or cans of coats. I have a $1 clear coat that works well for semi-gloss, only cheap solution i haven't found is for flat coats, Mr.Hobby's bottled flat seems the cheapest for $3 per 10ml.

The reason i panel lined them before future because i know Gundam Marker Oil Based doesn't work well with paint or coats, i have tried panel lining on a painted -> Lacquer Gloss coated surface, the result was pretty similar as you described, the marker dries on the spot and you need a hobby knife to scratch off the excess, few users told me Gundam Markers are designed for unpainted plastics. About panel lining on the Future Floor, do you notice dried Future Floor tend to be easily scratched? I have some moving parts near the joint and the armor sometimes rub against the shoulder, causing minor scratches you can see the "white" dust coming off. Also how do you prevent Future Floor from gathering downwards when you do a wet coat? I used brush i can clearly see the coat gathers towards gravity. I chose brush right now since that was how the youtube showed, they also suggest cotton rags. I'm not sure how to polish with a paper like the youtube showing without damaging the coat though. And by panel lining after the coat, how do you protect the linings? Also some areas require panel lining before applying decals & top coat, how do you get around it? Would it work if i Panel Line them, use some clear matte/semi gloss coat to seal the lines/decals, then use Future Floor to gloss it? I tested on semi gloss primed areas, seems the Future Floor can't fill up the paint particle patters & result was not as smooth.

This is my 2nd attempt on using Future Floor as gloss finishing, however the result was different from the 1st one which was mostly unpainted. 1.I use Gundam Oil based Marker for panel lining, left it dry for few days, apply Future Floor with brush, notice the Future Floor will "melt" the panel lines and causing smudges when Future Floor "flow downwards". I had to apply very dry brush, and try to avoid the panel lines, but this result in much less gloss finishing. 2.I used Future Floor on semi-gloss coated surface (using it as prime to paint certain parts of the piece), I noticed no matter how thick i applied the future floor & how many layers, the spray paint texture is still noticeable & the whole piece doesn't look as glossy as it should. I don't get it, where did the future floor go? 3.I notice Future Floor tend to "flow downwards" due to more water based, it's causing uneven smudges after dry, previous try had similar smudge but went away once it's dry. I would assume using airbrush would have similar result seeing how Future Floor works.

yea, even though it's a different style but yea making 3D model look like 2D. that one is amazing, yet i still don't get how they achieve the 2D looks, do they only look good from 1 angle? seems like from any angle they look 2D. i tried google but not sure what the term for these effects are, and so far, i've only seen 2 such works including this. and i found this Gundam: http://en.rocketnews24.com/2014/11/27/japanese-model-builder-wins-at-gundam-makes-a-3d-model-look-like-a-flat-drawing/ really can't tell it's 3D model kit: I think the type of paint they use also adds the effect? do they use like Pastel or watercolor instead? Bringing it to a new level of 2D, B&W Comic strip: