DatterBoy

Picked up some Laser Printer Decal Sheets from the shop. Those things are not cheap. Costed about 6 bucks a sheet. Since I can't print white, I had to buy a white and hope that I can match the paint color for the blue. Here's a run down of my costs for this project so far... - Rohby recast $50 - Fusion Patriotic Blue $4 - Fusion Satin White $4 - Tamiya paints (Red, Yellow, Black, Silver, Green) $6 - Brushes $2 - Decal Sheets $12 - Xacto Set $20 - Tamiya Masking Tape $6 This is pretty much assuming you start with nothing, which is what I did. Of course, a lot of these materials will lend to future projects, but this sucker is coming in well over an original JM, but I have to say... I think it does and will look much better than the originals do. Things I still need to get: - Flat lacquer - Decal Film spray I plan on doing the decals on Illustrator tonight, hopefully, printing tomorrow and applying as well. We'll have to see.

I was at the hobby shop the other day. I noticed that there was mold release formula and cleaner at the shop. Anyone ever try this type of stuff?

Update:

I used to use enamel, but ever since plastic bonding fusion, I prefer nothing else. Once it dries, hard as a rock. Only real problem is the limited palette to choose from. I'm using Patriotic Blue and Satin White. Thinking I'm going ot have to get some inkjet waterslide decal paper to finish this baby off. Hope it's not too pricey. In the process of painting up the fastpacks now.

Always wanted a Max 1A and have had Rohby's recast for some time. I think that painting a JM custom is very much like painting a 1/48, same rules apply on a smaller scale. Anyhow. I learned a lot of things this first round that I wish I would have done in advance. Probably some really obvious things that I skipped around the first time. Right now I imagine it looks a lot like what it would be if a TV Max 1A was ever released by Bandai. No decals, fresh out of the box. Here's what I have so far: Things I didn't do that I should have: - sand down areas of friction - scrub harder to remove the release agent - used tamiya model masking tape - waited longer for the paint to dry (it said for 7 days, I waited 1... so impatient) Still want to: - decal - paint visor - paint wheels metallic - touch up chipped parts - tighten leg joints (floppiness) - loosen arm joints (super tight) - paint up fast packs - paint the fat pilot and fit him in - sand/polish the canopy - add a layer of flat clear coat (future?) to the whole damn thing Man, for a small scale JM, this sure does take a lot of work. More as it comes.

Sure did!

OK Stage 1, before I try and do some custom stickers and a bit of color add:

Hayao, Any chance you can get us some shots of the side armor insert with out the GBP? I want to see what it makes the valk look like when the space is filled. Thanks!

If I only had real skills, there would definitely be massive potential... for now, all I can do it paint the pieces without any fanciness...

You can find what you need here: VF-0D Scans

Hold up... those are the TV hands, yeah?

I think you mean me... I'm using Krylon Fusion. That stuff rocks.

Ah... I remember seeing that custom now. Curious, did you paint the valk up first and then apply the decals? :Dat

Yeah. Show us some Minmay Guard pics. In the meantime.. guess what I'm making... Anyone know if there is some special paper that will allow me to print my own decals?

Yamato's boxes suck @$$... accept it and move on.

holy crap...

You know, if Yamato wanted to milk the mold, I figure all they would have to do is get Big West's sign off on creating paint variations After that, all the completists would go ga ga...

Tried looking through your gallery... soo many pics... my machine choked... hahahaha I'll check it out again ina bit.

YOu gonna round that sucker out a bit?

I've been considering doing one for a long time now and was curious if anyone had done one to date. I'd like to see a finished product made from Rohby's casts specifically and don't seem to recall one ever being posted. If you got one, post some pics so I can maybe get some ideas. Thanks!

This thing would kick some serious arse if they narrowed out Prime's Obliques like in the lineart. It would give him the more trim and athletic look. I wonder if the width there was a necessity...

Is it really out this week?

With all those 1D conversion kits out there, some spare pieces may pop up. Post on the wnated section and see what happens. :Dat

The arm bands are not a must have but I added them on my own in order to compliment the black bands on the legs. I like the balance between the upper and lower half. My 1D Batt Great work Kirt! Your 1D looks so clean. Makes me want to try again.

Any of those made from a Rohby Recast?