shiyao

The Ingram is a pretty good figure. I finally have a three-dimensional representation of something Patlabor. All poses unsupported.

haha that was funny daggraa. really cheeky.

ah yes drybrushing. it seems like such an attractive and easy to do concept, and yet execution is always .. impossible (to look good - at least for me anyways). i've searched around drybrushing FAQs, but they tend to be vague (dip brush in paint, wipe it off with tissue, get to the parts and start brushing!). do you have any particular tips as to how to perform proper drybrushing? i know we're supposed to drybrush areas that have wear and tear (eg. gun barrel, thrusters, rain-exposed areas). but anywhere else?

haha .. well, to be honest, everytime i screw up with the airbrush, i think to myself: "that's just battle damage .. weathering .. dirt etc". i want to stop that. it's a cop-out! should i not use black for shadowing? would something like faint grey be better? the truth is, i like nice clean gundams/mechs with only the minimal amount of shadowing done. something like this (by Michael Fichtenmayer):

the latter being preshading, and the former being postshading yeah? yes i would like to see those videos, if possible. do you know the URL? i'm sure all the beginner modellers on MW would appreciate them! my main worry is that my airbrush has a 0.3mm nozzle and i have no regulator on my baby air compressor. so the spray comes out actually quite wide, rather than narrow. this makes shading along the seams and lines tricky.

hi all, just wondering: does anyone know what series this toy is from? and what it's called? produced by? scale? i just think it looks gorgeous.

alright, i've been directed to post stuff in this thread for feedback, so here goes. this is crap by everyone else's standards here; which is precisely why i'm posting it. to get good advice on how to make it better. i've only airbrushed on what i perceive to be "shadowing" - unfortunately, as you can see, it has turned my Strike Freedom into Strike Greydom. once again, please offer your collective wisdom. i am your peon.

wah, that was very enlightened so looks like i shall have to purchase gloss coat as well. there seems to be no end to what i should buy for this &(#$^&@#^#$ hobby. thanks anyway!

whoa, thanks! that was a very detailed reply. i am very grateful. so i am comforted - rich is an ok brand. at the same time, depressed because it appears i will have to fork out more for a new compressor with a regulator (not sure where to get regulators *alone* here in singapore). right now i'm just doing basic shadowing on my kits, as per the advice on dannychoo.com. Does anyone know of any links to gundam modelling tutorials on the web? i've already seen dannychoo and fichtenfoo's - now im looking for more lazy like-minded individuals' opinons will post up pics of the kit soon. if anybody wants to volunteer their gundam building method (ie. cut off sprue, trim, airbrush, top coat first or what first etc etc), please go ahead!

okay, here's what's been happening. i have been completing my models out-of-box, and then topcoating them with a matte finish. no paint, no airbrush - just topcoat. i then proceed to outline panel lines with gundam marker - and i've discovered that i am unable to use eraser/sandpaper/tissue to wipe away any errors! so i was wondering if i could just airbrush first, THEN panel line with gundam marker (and therefore rub away with eraser?), and THEN topcoat. sorry for the confusion.

1. Well ... I don't really mean paint-matching per se .. more like, "How in general does one make his model kit look good without a full paintjob?" 2. So I can get a regulator SEPARATE from a compressor? I already have the latter, albeit with no controls. Thanks!

haha, another tangential question from me: We all know that removing gundam marker ink from the PLASTIC of the model kit is easily done with tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper. But how about removing gundam marker ink from an ALREADY airbrushed model? Will tissue paper/eraser/sandpaper suffice? Or is thinner necessary? (in which case, how do you remove the gundam marker ink WITHOUT taking off teh paint?!??!) any help will be welcome this is driving me crazy.

i reckon people don't play much with their yamato valks once they're customized. maybe a transformation here and there for a photo shoot, and that's about it. is that answer satisfactory? does anyone out there transform his/her customized yamato like 10 times a day? hell i can't remember the last time i transformed my 1/48s.

Hi guys, I just got my first internal-mix, double-action airbrush yesterday. I used to own an external-mix single-action affair. It was, suffice it to say, crap. Anyway, a few quick questions (I believe these have not been answered on the other threads, but feel free to destroy me if otherwise): 1. The brand of my internal-mix airbrush is "Rich". I have been assured that the company that makes Iwatas makes them, as well as Mr Hobby, and everything else. "Only one airbrush making company in Japan. Iwata is just the brand to market in the US." (-->shopowner) Is this true? 2. I feel that although paint control is good (pulling back on the lever), air control (pressing down on the button) is less so. Is this common to all internal mix airbrushes? There appears to be very little difference between little air and maximum air. 3. I do not like to fully paint my kits. Especially the MG ones, which are already molded in fine colors. So, question: what is the best way to go about "touching up" an unpainted kit, without fully painting it? Will I still have to use primer/base coat? And are there transparent primers? 4. Is a 0.3mm nozzle fine enough for postshading? 5. Mine is a "Baby Air Compressor". Without any controls, just an on/off switch. Problems? Right, that's all for now, thanks! Shiyao

haha ... have you tried resizing your photos? that was my problem initially. of course, you're close to a 1000 posts .. so.

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OK, has anyone made any Kotobukiya Super Robot Wars model kits by Kotobukiya? I've just finished Alteisen (see pic; no paint yet) and man, was the fitting a bitch. Glue is supposedly optional but in this case I had no choice but the apply it by the truckload. The plastic was really flimsy as well. I had to shave off a whole bunch of polycaps just to make them fit and articulation is as good as zero. Has anyone made the new Armored Core (Mirage) kit by Kotobukiya? Is it as crap as this? I hope I haven't wasted my money. I bought 5 kotos in a mad spell the other day.

I just got Mirage (this kotobukiya AC) yesterday, and I was wondering: how has the quality of Kotobukiya's SUPER ROBOT WARS model kits been? I fear I might have foolishly splurged out too much on 3 kotobukiya kits in one go.

according to the official release date, these babies are already out in japan. anybody with confirmation for that? and how about over in hongkong and singapore?

strangely .. very strangely .. i see the potential for rumble. it's just hasbro, they don't really know how to pose their own toys for photos. i bet he can be made to look badass. we all thought skids was a joke from the photos - as it turns out, he turned out to have one of the best 'bot sculpts ever. ** as for super threads .. i dunno man. i guess i don't like their lack of specificity .. and attention-grabbingness.

If you've seen this already, forgive/bite me. Alternators Rumble, Decepticon, Honda Civic Si! Kudos to Torsten at binalternators.de and wal-mart! *** http://www.binalternators.de --- > Torsten's site http://automobiles.honda.com/models/exteri...elName=Civic+Si ----> for more pics of the Honda Civic Si

http://thegreatsze.blogspot.com/2006/04/ar...se-trading.html Wrote a primer on the topic, just thought I'd share it. Hope this hasn't been done before, if it has, please feel free to remove this thread mods.

Is there a dalong.net equivalent for FIX Figuration and Zeonography figures? (In an ideal world, there should be a dalong.net for everything on earth.)

eh, haterist, hurin? i don't post much, but i do know one thing - i enjoy reading both of your posts. the two of you make sense most of the time, unlike other folks with massive MIB toys of themselves. there should be no conflict between the two of you. insert requisite qualifiers here.