jadefalconguard

Hey Sean, great you've got the second one. Glad to hear you don't have the troubles I've had. I'm working on a complete 'how to' guide on the VF 1 . Will get it online very soon. @ bhop : Already have the fowler flaps down and the seat geared up. But you're right about the gear. I'm going to look in to that while I await my decals.

I bought myself the same one 'cause I wanted to get a complete collection of fine nozzles for shading. Almost same story as yourself. Main reason, my badger 150 only had a medium needle. To make a long story short here are my remarks : - forget about getting a clean airbrush, doesn't work - nozzles : wear out VERY fast and the smallest get clogged easy b/c of the cleaning issues - all plastic body and parts - feels like a toy in the hand And even shorter my pro's right : NON I reccomend getting something else

A small update..... Have been tingeling with the fowler flaps on the VF 1. Nicely made, with metal 'guide' bars to the lower flap. However, the indents that are made for these guides don't really fit + they are waaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy to long. I started by cutting the metal guides to the correct lenght. Testfitting them gave me a general impression on the exact location so I cleared part of the flap. Take care NOT to cut to deep esp. on impression the closest to the end of the wing or you'll cut through. After that a dot of glue secures the fowler flap system. Then generally add putty (I mixed it with CA glue to get a hardened substance). After that carefull sanding and presto Concerning the collour : it'll be a low vizz Valkyrie. I'm not sure with markings, but it may be 'non existing' or maybe an Enigma. We'll see I try to post some pics later on this week.

Great work, I was looking for a low Vizz scheme for my 1/48 valk I'm working onn. By change do you have FS nummerdesignations for your colors used ? I would like to finish it this way if you don't mind

Now that's a good questions Sean Noppe I'm still trying to find something I like. Want it to be sort or less conform Macross, but not white I really don't like it. Might try low viz or something. Depends on the decals I can find. SOmeone a tip ?

It could be that you are getting iced water ! These cans cool down very quickly, when this icing gets in your air feed it will detract H2O (water) from the airfeed hence the druplets in your paint ! You've got 2 solutions : 1/spray with one hand an shake the can with the other. 2/Place the can in a 'bucket' with warm water and cover the top of the bottle with a cloth Ideal would be you get an airbrush with watertrap, but it took me 5 years before I bought one. Hope this helps.

Hi Guys, small update. After my wife looked at the result up to now there was 1 remark. Get that nosecone on that thing. That got me thinking..... and I did it. So now I have a VF1 with nosecone. Guess I'll need a second kit to make one 'open' VF1. Post some more pics along the way.

* bang * drops jaw to ground. Truly amazing........ just awesome, esp. when you think how small that cockpit is. BTW is the seatbelt from a Me262?

Write up in progress, as soon as I got my 40 pics I 'll get it developped and send you a "report" as detailled as possible. Anything specific you'll need ?

Tara tara : one of the milestones in the VF1 just happened tonight ! I taped up the legs and the arm pieces and let her fly Sat there in my living room and went "roaar" and "vroooom" with a taped up piece of resin......Glad my kids and wife were at bed or they would ask me if I took the right pill this evening And now : the 'piece de resistance' a nice view of the VF1S up till now

Just for laughs, here's the pic of the other leg. Don't mind the seam to much, the Fastpack will cover it up almost completely. Ssst don't tell but I'm NOT going to fill it up....just get it smooth for a snugg fit of the FP

Oh BTW I first filled al the existing panel lines and vent holes that weren't correct. That explains the amount of putty on there Now the legs. Man that one part gave me some headaches. The piece was to large so I had to cut it up. Took out a big piece and already started the recarving of the rounded part to get the Fastpack to conform and snugg tightly on there. Some one bring me a dust mask *cough cough cough * After that got cured I cleared out the place for the PE part and filled the difference in hight (noppe forgot to straighten the legpieces before gluing so had to pull out some tricks) with styrene pieces and gap filling glue. Works like a charm.....always

Hey Guys, first of thanks for the interest. Nice to know other people also look at this. Now, for some treat : the gunpod. As stated earlier I found it a bit 'empty' ans spars for such a big piece. So it took out some old P.E. parts, a Hasegawa gunpod and started transfering the places were something could go and aprox. te place of the panel lines. Each place were there was going to be a PE part I carefully cleared the resin and enterd a PE part. Bu using a sharp X-acto blad and a screwdriver (!?) (the ones used for PC assembling) I cleared the panel lines. Though not clear on the picture ..... again (hm, instead of buildign this thing I should get myself a new camera ) edit : noppe you can't see the panel lines, you'll have to trust me on that one, they are there)

@ Neova, I'll take with with the reflex camera, but it'll take some time to develop. Also, when you would correct this, remember also the part that is used to let the canopy work. This also needs adjusting. If interested I can measure it up for you and take pics along the way. LMK Oh and if you can get those kits, I'm interested I plee guilty to wanting a second and maybe third one, depending on price

I'm working on the legs right now. As soon as they are finished I post some pics. Also from the gunpod. Had it updated a bit Hang on for more. Alpha HX here you go, hope this is better EDIT : noppe, doesn't work

Normally if I clean up my Badger (150) I completely disasamble it (head, needle) and cup AFTER I sprayed it liberally with the appropriate thinner. Then use some paper or cloth damp with thinner and clean the parts. After re assemble en spray it again throught with thinner. Maybe overkill , but my badger is 6 years old ans tstill working fine Oja, when I plan on using it very soon again I only let it soak in thinner, not so time consuming

I challenge you to a trial of grievance Inners Sphere Stravag . oops wrong forum. Sorry Kurt, you're right. I looked a bit closer and . no offence intended.

I must say it looks very good, hands down. Regarding the "melted plastic" don't worry to much just yet. Once painted and drybrushed it'll look better. I read a lot of battletech novels and the armor always gets melted away by lasers, so your cool You would want to try to thin down the plastic before doing the damage. This will give you a better impression of scale and lets you handle the plastic easier, just a tip Please, show the pics once you finished this.

Small update, didn't get much work done today, so I tested the leg parts. On first sight I thought one of the leg halves was to small. At second sight I found out 1 was to long . So it looks I'll be cutting one part up. Luckilly it's only to long so it will be quit easy to solve. I'm glad I'm building the Strike version so the Fast Pack will hide the seam. So I won't have to take to much time to rescribe and fill One thing I got done was polishing the feet thrusters. I used again Testor Metallizer and started polishing. You can see the result below.

Thx for the heads up. I was wondering how to get that thing to fit. How does this vac formed canopy react to 'superglue' ? I'm thinking of using white glue but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough BTW do you have any pictures online from your VF1? I'm interested to see one finished

I'm still deciding what I'm gonna do with these. I plan to make a 'little' diorama with the VF1 that's being readied for action. So it could be I leave them open to hook up some hoses. If not I'll prob. use sheet styrene and putty to get a nice fit. This is the general idea I'm planning on

Finally the big moment. I was able to start and mate the cockpitarea with the main fuselage/body. After looking up some linedrawnings and looking at almost every footage I have from Macross (to great dispair of my wife) I found a major flaw in this kit. The cockpit is to round in regard with the body . I decided to clamp the forward part of the cockpit shut and 'pull' the ending to fit the fuselage. This leaves me with a gap from +/- 1mm to fill with sheet styrene. I'll prob. get problems to join the canopy but we'll cross that bridge when we get there. You van see the gap in the previous post Did anyone else make this kit ? I would appreciate any feedback I can get and to see how other people solved this problem. Anyway, this is the drawing I had from the seat assembly. I can't remember where I copied it as it was meant to serve as a guideline for me. Don't want to infringe on copyrights or anything

The seat ( now this is a crapy picture)

Finally painting time I used Tamiya Buff for primer and preshaded with black. After that I gently airbrushed 'Air Command Grey' from testor over this to get the finished color. To accentuate the details I washed with with Vallerejo paints thinned with water and a drybush with the same Grey for highlights. The seat received a flat green canvas drybrushed with light brown to get a worn look and a slightly darker brown for the harnass. Alas these pictures don't do the work justice but it's gives a generall idea

Model builders are optimistic people : they expect to live forever to build all those models . I try to control myself and order 1 at a turn