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Everything posted by chyll2
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I am not familiar with the whole VF-1 Toy history but the color scheme and jolly rogers alone is enough to call it fake. Plastic and fitting quality is also sub-par even for an old age toy. And last, the fact that it has no manufacturer marking or even Big West marking means it is a fake product or unofficial product.
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I didnt notice until I read this. I guess when it comes to being "invisibile" the priest/pastor is the person for the job
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converting michael super to my own version of 25F supers. I want more white and red and will put some gray to break it down. Other than I want it predominantly white, I dont know how I will accent the booster and leg armors with grays, blacks and reds yet.
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afaik, the blue hilt is the finer tip from GSI Creos (GNZGM01), and I never heard anyone discussing or using the other thin pen, so my "assumption" is that the other pen is similar to normal gundam marker which might be thinner but not as fine.
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@davindwhangchoi that is a good video, he was able to show the basics of straight build. Though washing the parts for straight build is still questionable
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I dont remember that genie being in that shade of blue
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buyee.jp fromjapan.co.jp the commission is 5% to 10% of the overall cost though each proxy has a different basis on where they compute it. Based on computation, even though FJ ask for 5% commission, the final price is usually the same with buyee (since as I said, they use a different base for the commission) but I always use FJ due to Shipping options. The domestic shipping per toy is less than 1000 yen (provided I never bought any large item). You also have to pay bank charges that is less than 200 yen. These add on are per item you won in Yahoo auctions unless you want both items from same seller or shop.
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I always wash my plastic bits before painting them but that is because I need to thoroughly remove all residue of oil from hands because of numerous handling (snap fitting + disassembly) and dust from sanding the nubs and other works.
- 8366 replies
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Touching up nub marks on Metallic/Gloss kits?
chyll2 replied to potatotomato's topic in The Workshop!
i am not sure on the Gloss coating version of a kit, but if it just like a normal kit but is extra glossy, "maybe" you can polish the rough part where you sanded down the nub. This can be done by sanding the part from 1000 grit to 10000 grit (or less or more, not sure). for metallic kit though, it is a problem since metallic finish or chrome finish is usually painted with gloss black > silver > then clear color. Touching up means you need the sub as small as possible (you cant sand it) and apply metallic touch up and hopefully, your clear color can also match. The nub will still be visible but at least, it will not be as obvious as un-touched nub. -
You fooled me, then I noticed it has more tampo and ordinance compare to other 0D. Never again you will fool me, never again.
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That is scary Do the thigh and the leg assemby or at least the knee part is easy to dis-assemble?
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yeah, update please
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1/48+fp's, 1/60+fp's, 1/72, 1/2k, 1/3k,1/100 and now 1/144
chyll2 replied to VF-18S Hornet's topic in Toys
it is actually easy to dis-assemble a yamcadia wing since it is not glued. With a video on how it is done, I think the most scared collector can be pushed to do it. Tampo marking is a bit of an issue since water slide decals needs to be sealed in order to be protected and stickers are ugly. While overall it is do-able (even with limited modeling skill), I have to agree that it really requires effort and more money that it is not worth it. -
stickers. I just wish at least, arcadia offer an aftermarket water slide decals
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OT: it is the regular release that I won at YJA, it has the avalanche part included as well. Though even if you are interested, I am at the other side of the world and shipping alone will increase the price a lot Thanks Andrew for the review. It is a good valk
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okay guys, Im convinced that I was wrong to skip this. So I need to sell my upcoming MB Avalanche exia to give way to this, hopefully, the price has not yet gone up by then.
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just take your time and read. I started collecting macross toys when the Super VF-25S gave me cancer assembling. So to try it out, I bought a VF-25A and saw the worth it. The most streamlined source of info is this forums and with a little bit of google, I was able to get all of the missing bits. For the average price of the item, the only basis I get is the SRP of the item at the release (1999.co, amiami, hlj, etc). Long released or rare item is very hard to price so that is why when I started collecting, I only set my sight on the newer release.
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There are signs of glue on both of the front tip, but other one has a notorious amount on it. Then yeah, there is the tight fitting as well which made everything removing the front tip harder as well. As for the screw cover, the small screw cover is only hold by friction but since it is very tight fit, you will end up destroying some of it. The large screw cover is heavily glued on mine.
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thanks for wmkjr at the yf-25 paladin thread for showing the way on how to get the super parts ready for painting. It was supposed to be simple removing of thruster and front tip, until the other one just wont be removed. I was so desperate since the front tip is already in very ugly state that I said, fraked it, the whole booster parts needs to be separated. After it did, the front tip is just so heavily glued that I need pliers to removed from one side.
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What Rick said at the end of the episode made me laugh, it is what I needed to get excited with the series.
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their early bird price as usualy, is very tempting
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@wmkjr i took down experiment michael's super part the other day. And yeah, your guestimate for screw cover is the same as mine. I am still having second thoughts on my alto project since I wont be able to replicate all of the markings in black but going a visit here made me realize, that the Accessories use for yf-25 is mostly gray and it never looked odd. The project is a go, I just need to be careful on removing the small thrusters. edit: front tip: one side is removed with damage but nothing a putty cant solve other side is being a pain now, the front tip is actually in a really bad shape but it just wont move.
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Anyone knows how HLJ handles changing of Country and other details? I have snatched one from HLJ earlier but I already found an open PO locally (in Philippines) which more or less the same price if I pay for custom taxes (which HLJ will never underdeclare for) I am planning to give it away rather than to cancel it edit: it is not possible then to transfer an account or orders to another entity.
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basing on the long availability of the toy at SRP (CDJ) or a little above it (NY). I would say that we got a fair chance to get them at release date.
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guess what, mark up from NY https://www.nippon-yasan.com/macross/11169-macross-30-dx-chogokin-yf-29b-percival-rod-custom.html 19800 yen
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