Dobber

I have Luca already and a Mikal on order, both of those will be Super packed and I think I may order another Alto to build as a Superpack since I have 3 pack kits sitting at home....didn't realise the kit would need so much "re"assembly for the separate kits. I'd be will to do a build up if it would help you out. Chris

Here's what I did with the Ozma, I kind of worked as I went instead of doing everything at once. but the overall hull color is ....... wait for it............ Tamiya gray primmer out of a rattle can! the light grey is MM acrylic light grey and the internal parts like the inside of the backplate, arms, and legs are done with Tamiya Acrylic metalic Grey which was given a wash with black Tempera paint (right out of the bottle) this is then just wiped off with a damp paper towel. It gave the "metal" parts a really good worn look. Then I sealed the "metal" parts in MM semi-gloss. for the "outside" parts I would cut a section off of the spru tree as I went...ie forward fuselage, then both arms, the both legs....ect prime, then paint (if needed like with light grey) or just make sure that the primmer was in a nice even coat since it was the color that I was using. I then panel lined, using a No.2 pencil and sealed using Tamiya clear flat from the the rattle can and then decaled. Let me re-phrase, I built the nose and forward fuselage, the Arms, the Legs but didn't connect them all. The legs I didn't put the external parts on until after I finished the "metal" parts. I then decaled those sections and sealed. For the legs I decaled the external parts BEFORE I attached them the the internal stucture. The only part that did get attached before I decaled it was the intake area becase the decal wraps around 3 parts, but that was done after the internal "metal" parts were done. I used Decal setting solution and then alot of solvent to make sure they settled down really well. Once it was all dry and set....a day or two.... I sealed with the Tamiya clear flat and put it all together. Now some areas will require more assembly before decaling, you just kinda go with the flow and figure out what will make it easier for you......like not having to mask parts that won't have the same kind of coating ie flat, gloss, or semi gloss, and really the main areas that had that problem are the legs and arms. I'll post some pictures of how it all came out, I'm just at work at the moment. This all worked for me because I built the Alto already and basiclally made it out of the box with just minimal painting, so I had an idea of how the kit went together and could really break it down into sections. Chris

Hey thanks Jarrod! Glad you like my canopy. I hope it works as well for all of you too Chris

Thanks, for the flat coat I used tamiya clear flat right out of a rattle can. I worked slow and used a few coats while the "metal" parts I coated with MM semi gloss. As for the thinned purple, I don't know what ratio I used but it essentially looked like purple water. Then I just held it by the tab that locks it to the cockpit, with tweezers, and dunked it into the purple.....completley submerging it. Lift it out, and dab the ends onto a paper towel, which will drawl the excess liquid that pools around the frame, off. Hope it works out for you. Chris Edit: oh yeah, I didn't use future until after the canopy was dunked in the purple and then dry. Then I just dipped the canopy into the future using the same technique.

Here you go David, I used Acrylic Flat Purple and Acrylic thinner...both from Tamiya. The sensor windows are also done in the same fashion. Good thing is since it's Acrylic, it can be removed very easily if you don't like how it came out. As for my model, It's completly painted....ie....no colored plastc showing. I sanded the nose seem, and the "Skeleton" parts came out really well...metalic and dirty looking. It's still not finished though. Still need to paint the cockpit, the root guns and the intake covers. I'll post pictures of it if your all interested, just figured we've seen enough VF-25S's so I never bothered. Chris

David, I feel your pain brother. What finally worked for me on my Ozma was just dunking the canopy into VERY thinned down Tamiya Acrylic Purple. Then just carfully dab the excess off. Yes it's the actual paint but since it was thinned so much it just left a nice sublte tint. Then I sealed it in future. Chris

Thanks, I'll do that. David or any other mod. If you think any other post here may help please feel free to add them in the new thread I started in the customising Section: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...mp;#entry726199 Chris

Here are some pictures of how the "REMOVED" gundam marker turned out. I say "REMOVED" because it is really dark when it was applied and I had to use a strong substance....ie Nail polish Remover....to get it to this level. I only used the GM on the tan portions of the body behind the Orange area and the wings. The rest of the paneling was done with a nice sharp mechanical pencil.....trying to balance things out and I didn't want to risk damaging the rest of the plane with a strong solovent to remove the GM. Notice the areas on the right wing (the one with the 102 on it) all around the 102 and near the root you can see the slight miscoloration. I would definately NOT recomend using the GM that I used on a v2 yammie. I'll try a different thinner on the effected areas but if that doesn't work I'll just seal the whole thing and live with it. Learn from my mistake everyone!!! Chris Edit: thought the pictures would transfer too. They can be seen in the link in the post above.

I was discussing this in the model thread because there was alot of talk about using this Gundam marker for paneling and I figured I'd give it a shot with my brand new VF-1D. Here is my edited post to describe what happened. There where many good posts in response that may help people and a few people suggested posting a separate thread to help. So here you go. I bought this: http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02 I used it on my new Yamato VF-1D v.2. After I traced some of the panels I tried rubbing some ofthe overrun of with my thumb....it didn't even smear, then I tried water and cloth...again didn't even so much as smudge. Finally I got some rubbing alcohol, OOOPS I didn't use rubbing Alcohol I used Nail polish remover on TP it started to finally remove SOME of it but I couldn't get it out of the actual panels (it marker was far too dark a grey) but it did lighten them. After going over every thing, I noticed a cloudiness/ slight miscloration of the areas I had to rub plus the plastic felt rough in those areas instead of smooth like the unaffected areas. Now, I may need to repaint the damn thing. I only did the tops of the wings and the tan area of the upper fuselage behing the Orange portion. I was just under the impression, from how everyone here was talking, that Gundam markers cleaned up easy and could be easily erased. Not what happend for me. Edit: I realised I use Nail poish remover not Rubbing Alcohol. I'm a Dumb ass. However it still doesn't change the fact that the marker wouldn't budge until I used the NPR. GRRRR! Original thread is here with other help tips and warnings. http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...&start=1040 Chris

Thanks everyone for all the input. Here are some pictures of how the "REMOVED" gundam marker turned out. I say "REMOVED" because it is really dark when it was applied and I had to use a strong substance....ie Nail polish Remover....to get it to this level. I only used the GM on the tan portions of the body behind the Orange area and the wings. The rest of the paneling was done with a nice sharp mechanical pencil.....trying to balance things out and I didn't want to risk damaging the rest of the plane with a strong solovent to remove the GM. Notice the areas on the right wing (the one with the 102 on it) all around the 102 and near the root you can see the slight miscoloration. I would definately NOT recomend using the GM that I used on a v2 yammie. I'll try a different thinner on the effected areas but if that doesn't work I'll just seal the whole thing and live with it. Learn from my mistake everyone!!! and thank you for your help, advice, and the slightly off topic nature in this thread. Chris

Did the plastic need a gloss coat before I used the marker? I'm starting to fear I made a rookie mistake. This is why I hate trying new things I never seem to get it right. I just need to stick with what I know. Chris

Hey David, I bought this http://www.hlj.com/product/GNZGM02 I used it on my new Yamato VF-1D v.2 ( yes I know this is the model thread but I was talking more about the marker which has been mentioned here often more than the object) After I traced some of the panels I tried rubbing some ofthe overrun of with my thumb....it didn't even smear, then I tried water and cloth...again didn't even so much as smudge. Finally I got some rubbing alcohol, OOOPS I didn't use rubbing Alcohol I used Nail polish remover on TP it started to finally remove SOME of it but I couldn't get it out of the actual panels (it marker was far too dark a grey) but it did lighten them. After going over every thing, I noticed a cloudiness/ slight miscloration of the areas I had to rub plus the plastic felt rough in those areas instead of smooth like the unaffected areas. Now, I may need to repaint the damn thing. I only did the tops of the wings and the tan area of the upper fuselage behing the Orange portion. I was just under the impression, from how everyone here was talking, that Gundam markers cleaned up easy and could be easily erased. Not what happend for me. Chris Edit: I realised I use Nail poish remover not Rubbing Alcohol. I'm a Dumb ass. However it still doesn't change the fact that the marker wouldn't budge until I used the NPR. GRRRR!

Ok, so I bought a few of the Gundam markers, for panel lining, that evey one keeps talking about, and what the HELL!!! I thought you guys said that mistakes clean of easy with your thumb or water!!!? I could not get any of it off without using rubbing alcohol which in turn screwed up the plastic!!! What the hell! Chris

I too canceled both my 25G and 25S preorders. This just dosn't look good, especially for the price. Chris

I'm still waiting for Overdrive to cancel my 1/100 VF-25G pre-order. Soon as i get the money back, via paypal, I'm going to buy this. Anyone know how long it takes for Overdrive to cancel and refund? Chris

Holy Farking Schnit!!! That is a thing of beauty!!! I'm so excited to get this! Just look at those gorgeous lines in fighter mode!! Chris

I can understand that, but then where's Athena. It was a scheduled flight, if Boomer is taking her place then shouldn't he be wondering what happened to Athena....."why isn't she here for her flight" thus leading to "what did Boomer do to her?" Unless he just didn't give a crap.....which in his state of mind I guess could be believable but still seemed pretty lousy on his part. I get wanting your love to escape, but not giving a crap about what she did to someone you know is pretty...well....frakked up. Chris

Who did the chief think he was helping into the Rator, Athena or Boomer? I mean they Kissed she said she meant everything she had said about how she felt about him, if it was Athena shouldn't he have gotten a little suspicious that she had the same "HOUSE" projection as Boomer did....not to mention the sudden turn emotions from Helo to himself. Or, if he knew it was Boomer, what did he think happened to Athena....since it was her Long term flight that was scheduled. Just seemed odd to me. I understand that he helped Boomer escape from the brig, but what did he excpect to happen after that? Chris

That Ozma version has an F type head in fighter mode. Hope Bandai isn't cutting corners and not bothering with the correct head unit for fighter mode. Chris

I also preordered the tv max 1A. Will the tv 1A's have the correct style head, or will they just be DYRL style 1A heads? I think I'll probably be getting 3 more vf-1's after this one, a vt-1 and possibly another dyrl valk and a vf-1d. If the 1A heads will differ, that'll probably make my my mind up for me. Chris

I'll have to see more of the 19 kai, but I too like it better than the animation. I know I can be a bit of a line art fanatic, but that mainly applies to the more recent designs that use CAD, and therefor didn't dramatically change proportions from one mode to the other. I never did care for the cartoony proportions that the M7 valks had and even M+ too.....ie.....huge legs and such......and mouths. For once it seems to work in my favor after the dx proportion debate. Chris

Couple of questions, anyone know when the RVF-25 is supposed to be released? Also will super and armour parts be sold separately or will they only come as a bundle with the 25's? I'd really hate to have to rebuy these freaking things just to get the super/strike parts. If the are separate, hopefully they won't be that web shop only bs. Chris

I'd be very interested in seeing a good profile shot of the fighter mode to see how the canopy looks. Chris

So does anyone know why the vf-25G is more expensive than Ozma's or Alto's? Does it come with something extra? Chris

Roger is correct, he and Adama met after the war. Since the colonies were probably in a state of chaos, it would probably be fairly simple to create Tigh's backstory and service record. Adama was the one who pulled strings to get Tigh "reinstated" into the Colonial fleet. Chris