macroadster

Thanks. Is it possible to scan the decal in 300 dpi?

I think anyone that brought Capitan America's Tactical Pod Regult would be interested to see how the IMAI decal looks like. Does anyone have a good scan of the IMAI decal? It would be a great reference to make new decals for the Tatical Pod. Thanks.

Good job on the first try. You might want to add different shading of blue and grey to add realism to Thread. I was trying out Macmaster's brush painting tip last weekend. Here is the result of the AFC-01H Legioss, not quite as good as Macmaster's battlepods, but I learn a lot..

Not sure if this has been posted before. At least, it has more text and build up progress. Hasegawa Variable VF-1

I started another thread about this a while ago. how to build small parts Appearly, it's possible if the right materials were brought. I tried to build the upper arm last weekend with styrene tubes. It was not difficult to make the upper arm.

This is exactly what I was looking for...Time for a shopping spree..Thanks.

It might be easier than I thought to recreate this. My first attempt was using Styrene sheets, and tried to roll it into a tube. That didn't work too well. I didn't know there were styrene tubes for sale. Silly me. How about the joints? There got to be something on hlj that I could use. I just don't know how to use hlj navigation very well. Thanks guys..

Thanks for the tip. I will be sure to pick up a few of those. Any idea about the arm?

Where can I find fist components like this?

I have been trying to build individual parts for a VF-0S Gerwalk. I tried to make small parts out of resin recast of other plastic models, and also eproxy putty. Unfortunately, both methods didn't work for me. What would be the best method to build small parts like this?

This is truely an eye opener for making Hase kits. Check out those light effects in his VF-0A build up. His skill is truely god like. I am so shameful to show my models to anyone now.

Looking good. I still haven't found the time to build mine yet. Looks like I will wait for the shaded version then build it.

That's it folks.

Here is a shot of the nosecone that I prepared.

I tried to chage the nosecone with a heat formed parts, but that didn't go too well. The nosecone is already stuck with the model by crazy glue and putty. I was unable to remove the existing nosecone so I had to give up.

Siding with my current project: Restoring a 20 years old ARII Spartan

Another shot of the arm from the side.

Here is the latest progress on this project: I changed the forearm and shoulder with different parts. At the same time, making the arms movable so it can have more than one pose.

How's going with the kitbash? I have been waiting for more progress for over a month.

Sweet kitbash. Can you take another picture with legs spread wider? I think it would have a meaner look.

If you want to try something new with panel line, I would recommend: Chalk washes This method is totally reversable if you screw up. You might want to do a thin clear coat for protecting your decals, then apply the chalk washes. If it doesn't work out, you can still wash it out with water. If it looks good, then clear coat again to prevent chalk from falling out of the model. Good luck, and hope to see more pictures.

My attempt over the weekend failed with the clear resin. For some reason the clear resin doesn't dry up for almost 4 days. I also got a lot of unsmooth surface on the casted parts. I suspect that I might have too much talcum in the mold, therefore, the parts became unsmooth surface. I will drop by artstuf next weekend, and hopefully I have better luck with polyurethane resin. Thanks for the tip, I will go to Cioppino for dinner with my girlfriend, it seems like a good place for food.

I am going to give my clear resin one more try by this weekend. If it doesn't work out, I will definitely find a place for Urethane resin. I didn't know what it was called, but I like the cream coloured resin. They are so easy to work with during the model constructions. I hope Urethane resin is as easy to cast as to build the models.

I think the mold was probably the problem in my initial attempt. The clear resin actually cured after I left it alone for 2 days. It's hard as solid now, but it still shrinks about 5% after it was removed from the mold. I was using: The day that I casted, it rained a lot. I will try again with a real liquid latex mold this week. I am still worried that the clear resin isn't flexible enough to cast thin and small piece like 0.25" x 0.1". Would that be a problem?

I didn't want to order online because I am moving my apartment in two-three weeks. I will check out Micro-Mark after I try out Ace Resin. Thanks