Chas

Are you warming the can up int hot water before you spray? That usually helps atomize the paint.

Thanks Max. So you don't polish the wet coat before you spray the clear coat? Hmmm. . . maybe I can save myself some work in the future. This might not be the direction that David is going 'cus he is doing an aircraft kit, but for anyone who wants a high gloss finish I think it is a great help. Oh, and SchizophrenicMC, that's two posts with absolutely no contribution to the thread. You may not have encountered me before but you can be sure that when I do post I make damned sure my post contributes to the conversation. Perhaps you would have less run ins with the Mods if you did the same. 'nuff said. EDIT = TYPO and rephrasing.

Well there is a much greater chance for drips to form with the long slow strokes that is for sure, and your personal expeience seems to bare that out. If you notice there is no "mist coat" in the Tamiya vid. and the can is held much further away. In the "short burst" technique the "mist coat" gives bite for the "wet coat" and helps to keep it from running and by holding the can only 2-3 inches from the surface the paint stays quite wet so any overspray is absorbed into the "wet coat". That is the only way I can explain it. What I do know is the "short burst" technique works for me. I'd suggest trying it out on some scrap styrene and see what happens.

Well here's a good video demonstration of the technique that I use. It's courtesy of the floks over at PLAMO Gloss Spray Tutorial Hope that it helps. Maybe your mist coat is too Heavy? P.S. Ialso place the can in a coffe cup full of just boiled water for a few minutes before I use it. Warming it up helps it atomize. EDIT= typos

Why one coat? Usually for a glossy finish I would do a mist coat of the entire area first. This provides good bite for the next application. After that has set, usually about 15-20 min, I then apply the heavier "wet" coat. For this second coat I hold the can about 2-3 inches away from the surface of the model and spray in quick short passes while constantly turning the model.

Duhh! That's why you use a GOOD PRIMER! Can you not read? if you spray it on a model with no primer it will most likely melt the styrene. But if you prime the model first there's nothing to worry about. Was this point not clear in my last post? I swear talk about a uselss post. Must you unthinkingly vomitt your opinion everywhere? Try reading the posts in the thread then thinking about what has been written before you decide to "contribute" (and I use that term ironically) whatever comes into you haed. Automotive scale modelers have been using the stuff for years! GOD!

If you use a good primer I've found that Automotive Sprays give awesome results for Gloss finishes. PLus the spray nozzles (At least hear in Canada) are designed so that the paint is ejected in a fan-shaped (read triangle) pattern. To get an idea of what I mean imagine cutting a triangle (equalateral) from a sheet of paper and holding it up to the nozzle of the spray can so that the apex is at the exit point for the paint and the base of the triangle is parallel to the can. This makes application VERRY SMOOTH! I use a basic automotive primer as these paint tend to be on the HOT side. This protects the plastic from any dissolving that may otherwise occur. It's priced a little cheaper than Tamiya sprays as well, (At least over here).

Looks like the DYRL Macross is finished (and if you look closely you'll notice that there appears to be more than one of them) Linky

Update: Now in colour! and comming soon Macross DYRL!

I believe that you are talking about my thread from HERE

ust discovered this band "Aural Vampire" a few weeks ago on youtube. Apparently they've played a few Anime conventions in various countries ( the latest being Katsucon, I believe) Anyway I cannot get enough of these two songs do yourself a favour and give them a go. I'm not going to try and label them as far as genre as that has become increasingly difficult - suffice it to say that the music is created electronically and it has stong dancibility with some aggressive overtones whilst the lyrics tend to be on the darker side. (now you're curious right? ) If you click let me know what you think, Shonan Zoku

A few years back (when I first registered at mw) I scanned my copy of TIA #11 Do You Remember Love? I still have the flies in four (i think it's 4) .pdf files. I know it's not rare or anything, but if anyone wants to host them I'd be more than willing to donate them. I also think I have digital files of my TIA portfollios (characters, and mecha) although I'd have to serch for those. Just offering is all. P.M. me or respond here.

I haven't bought any of the VF-0 kits but if they are anything like the VF-1's then the answer is -No-. If you want the landing gear bays closed you will have to mod the kit parts to do so, or putty over the holes sand and re-scribe the panel detail. Not really that difficult to do, but trickier than if there were closed gear bays provided.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh, Well that explains it. Up here in Canada they just end up lying around cluttering the place up. So we wind up doing all sorts of things with them, you know like arts and crafts kind of stuff - instead of glitter, or in scrap-booking to add some 3-d elements. I once had this gay friend who. . .uummmm well nevermind I'm going OT anyway.

Well what else is there to do with them?

The position I wanted the model in required weight in the nosecone, without it the model tended to tip backwards. Simple as that.

I've used Shotgun shells, well the buckshot that's inside anyway. Had some lying around (don't ask) so I just cut open the jacket and removed the buckshot. Lots of 3mm or so lead balls worked great in my Hase. Gerwalk conversions. Just dropped in where I wanted (nosecone, fastpack front end, and front portion of feet) squeezed in some CA and Bobs your uncle. So, if you just happen to have some shotgun shells lying around that you don't plan on using - well you're all set!

You know I can understand most of these requests (even the crazy wish-list ones) but I can't get my head around this one. . The kitbash gerwalk (using Hase kits) is so easy to do and at around $60 it's less expensive than a resin conversion kit would be, plus afterward you've got some great bits left over for your spares box. And for those of you who continually wine about all these great models you'd like to have while at the same time bemoaning your horrid lack of skills I have but one thing to say, " If you care enough to whine about - Suck It Up, quit your winning and start to learn." Kit building is not brain surgery. All it takes is time patience and some dedication. Every skill needed for the hobby can be accquired if you can supply those three things. If your not willing to invest those then IMHO you forefit your right to complain. Talent is a concept created by those who wish to be better at something, but are unwillinng to put in the work that becomming better demands. O.K. off my soapbox now ( sorry 'bout that not sure where it came from it just kind of happened ) Anyway Cap'n Although I've never been a customer of yours I do thoroughly enjoy watchinng you do your thing and it gives a strange sense that all is right with the world when I see the love and concern for quality that you put into your work, plus knowing that such well crafted versions of some of my favourits subjects exist in the world makes it easier to sleep at night. That being said I do think that the ground vehicles in 1/72 are a greatly needed product as are the enemy mecha.

No problem! So do you guys agree that it is totally scratch built? When I first saw it I thought maybe he started with a VF-25 as a base (not that that would take away at all from the accomplishment), but as I don't have a 25, nor do I read Japanese Iwasn't sure. Edit I'd keep my eyes open at the next Wonderfest in Japan (or whatever hobbyshows are comming up)

Check it out Folks P.S. spend some time and browse the rest of his stuff; you won't be disappointed!Linky Just click on the pic at the top of the page.

Gundam markers are lacquer based. You should have used an acrylic, or enamel clear coat.

Yep, and before he got started on the tool there would have been pattern makers who had to scratch build the original pattern. Before SLA/SLS technology was developed the skills that some of the folks here on the boards have was highly sought after, and remunerated. Things sure have changed since the eighties. Nowadays 3-D printing tech. is starting to make it into homes.

I used t work in rapid prototyping (SLA & SLS,) When the patterns came out od the SLA machine we would sand down all those ridges you see on these to a smooth finish and then make silicone moulds and cast them off in polyurethane resin. That way we could get top notch looking prototypes off to the client in less than a week. When they got a prototype that their engineers were happy with, often we would go through two of three modifications in resin, then they would order up some aluminum tools made up. Those cost usually between $30,000 - $50,000 (CAN). A steel 'production' tool started at about $200,000.00 (CAN)

Well I thought I'd be picking a few of these up upon their initial release as well - I think I may have even said so ( Yep I did!), But I've since cooled on that idea. As I took a step back from all the whoop-la over the first kit releases of these designs, I realized that there are a lot of other kits out there that I'd rather build ( judging from the prototypes, the fact that it is a transformable model, and my experience with some of Bandai's kits). I mean if it turns out that these kits are not what I'd hoped they would be - so be it-. I don't have to buy them. Chances are that, unless they are a complete flop - in which case I probably wouldn't want one -, they will be produced in sufficient numbers so as to be readily available should I at some point ( after reading reviews, viewing finished (modified) kits etc.) choose to get one or two of them. Otherwise I am perfectly happy waiting for a kit of the VF-25 that I actually want. I guess I realized that just because it's the only game in town doesn't mean that I HAVE to buy it. It's still early in the life of Macross F and I'm willing to bet that there will be kits made, at some point that I will passionately want and to tell you the truth I'm o.k. with waiting untill that happens before I buy a kit of the 25. Like I said, there are plenty of other kits out there that I'd rather build (again based on what I've seen so far).