ChaoticYeti

Please do! Wanna send me some shipping $ for a handful of samples?

$250usd

Scream Man's customs are pretty sweet. He has skull leader variants for a variety of valks.

Are you saying you'll S my P?

I do have a 1/48 woodland with woodland GBP. As long as people keep buying stuff, I can keep making stuff Speaking of which...

I should mention that similarly to using the stand adapter it comes with, it is necessary to drop the legs and swing bar from their seated position to get enough clearance to attach the adapter.

As is the same with most Neca items I have bought, he is still frozen from the truck. I'll try and move him around more tomorrow. The rubbery plastic is pretty locked up right now. I know the joint you are talking about. I haven't tried to move it yet. I saw in a video review that it wasn't moving on theirs either. Not sure if it is meant to or not. I have not pre ordered striker yet. I will probably pick him up, but I would like some more pictures before I order one.

Took long enough, but finally here! With the big guys:

Just get one stand and a few dual arms. 3 Valks on one stand is pretty common at this point. http://www.yetistand.com/product/yetistand-dual-arm

Check out the webstore! http://www.yetistand.com/ The stand has changed a bit since I started this thread. All for the better!

Finished printing. Should allow for enough room with super/strike parts.

I have had someone ask a question about designing something unrelated to this adapter, but I will use it as an example. They wanted to know if I could just have all of the adapters connect to a faceted peg for extra degrees of freedom. I voiced my concerns about doing so, and was going to give some examples as to why. I figured I would just post it here in a broader sense. I like talking about this stuff, so just take it as a little insight into what goes into these. My 3d printer is FDM. This means it prints one 2 dimensional slice of a 3d object, and than moves up slightly to print the next layer. You have probably noticed the striations of each layer if you have held one of my 3d printed adapters in your hand, or seen them in pictures. This layering is something that you have to take into consideration when printing with FDM. Details that follow each layer in length are much stronger than small areas that layer on top of themselves. Here are three examples of print orientation on this adapter I am currently working on. This orientation has several issues. It will require a lot of support material to be printed in order to allow the amount over overhang (printing over an area without material deposited beneath it on the previous layer), and this support material is waste that is discarded after the print and can be difficult to remove if not thought out before hand. It will also be prone to break as the layers run in line with thin walls, and areas that need to be strong. The tab on the bottom that goes into the stand adapter has a high potential to break, as does the gunpod cage and 'teeth' at the top. This orientation also has issues. It will require a lot of support material. Although the gunpod cage portion will be strong length-wise since it is a large area aligned with the layers, the ends of the longer runs near the adapter tab will be prone to breaking. You will also notice that small peg on top that connects to the valk hip bolt hole on the 1/60 v2 vf-1's. That peg is mirrored on both sides. This means that for the entire print, the only piece that is actually supported by the print bed is the peg on the opposite side. This can cause issues with the part not staying put for the duration of the print. You will also notice that the peg is a small detail and looking at the orientation of the layers you can tell that the peg may be prone to breaking off. For something so short, this may be unlikely, but if this was made longer there would be an increased chance of breakage. This is the orientation that works best for this item. The areas that need to be strong and durable work with the layers, and there is minimal need for support material compared to the other orientations. I hope this helps anyone understand this process a little bit better. There are constraints, but I can usually design my way around them.

I had some time before lunch. This is printing right now. Should be done when I get back.

Finally went ahead and ordered a 19P off of HKcollectibles. I have wanted one for awhile, but kept putting it off. It'll be nice to have 1 of each of the chassis variants, YF-19, VF-19s, VF-19p (F and K are just different heads). And to top it off, the VF-19 advance when it arrives.

FYI the whole leg assembly can just slide off the hip block. I was messing with stand adapters and separated the leg. Looks like it is just friction fit and tabbed in. Not sure if this was already known.

I wish arcadia would re-release these already... Looks like I'm gonna have to borrow or buy a set somehow. That is definitely not ideal, and the adapter I just made wouldn't work. Edit: Sitting down at my workstation again. I might be able to eyeball some revisions to make it work. I will update when I have something.

It would probably make more sense to just send you some.

Do you want to send me a set? Hahaha! Cool, but like you say there is a lot going on.

Yep, like I said it isn't broken. It slides right back on. A dab of glue should do it.

It is an easy fix. I was just curious as to how common this was.

Has anyone else had a foot fall off? I was just going from fighter to gerwalk, and one of the "toes" just fell to the floor. It does not look like anything is broke. The glue just gave up.

You'd think so.

And here it is revised and cleaned up:

^This is correct. It is a matter of saturation.

A little looser than I would like, but it works. I will revise and update. I'd like to get it to where the gunpod sticks out some more, as well.