MechTech

Funny enough, if the part is small, I just use my jean pants leg (while being worn). It's got a "soft" backing and the denim gives it a good shine! - MT

1/24th scale Le Manns body? Nice old school build Jefuemon. It's coming along great. - MT

That's looking good! I'm also glad to see the bad guys getting some love. I always loved Mospeada and it's great to see you working on this! - MT

I'm hoping the test shots look better! The nose gear looks like it's been soaking in alum and the fast packs are too far back as said before. It still has that aneroxia supermodel look to it. I think some guys are staying up too late working on this trying to cram it in. Late at night everything looks good! They need to stand back and take a good look and then read our forum for help - MT

That turned out gorgeous! Nice details all the way around. I think even if you were clueless to what Macross is, you still think this was really cool! It looks like this turned out to be a MW group effort too. I like the lighting too. GREAT execuation all the way around! - MT

That's a great diorama! Too bad all the posters had to mess it up with their filthy comments. They gotta be how old!? - MT

Ha ha ha!!! I'll have to try that tinting tip. I've used all kinds of paints and they all yellow. Plastics for -collectors toys- (versus kids toys) should have a UV blocker added to them. That costs more money and when cheaper plastics are used, that's what happens. Unlike food which has labels on it with ingredients; plastics don't have it so you can't tell unless you work for the company. - MT

Looks great Berttt! The mud effects are VERY realistic! - MT

Like EXO said, its an old conversation. The peroxide cleans off the top layer and leaves it easier to yellow. It's the plastic composition itself that controls the yellowing. Even people putting them in boxes complain of yellowing. Sorry man, can't outrun age! - MT

Great job Kyekye! Looks great! Yeti, the Galant and Bug Eye are cool! The Galant would be awesome in Airsoft! I'm definitely going to have to get a Bug Eye! Please keep us posted on the build. Looks like a Bug eye is next in my livery! - MT

OK, that's cool! I like the markings. - MT

With reliable turbines, that would make a cool fighter Vifam. - MT

You gotta ask yourself, "was this Macross influenced?" Even Burt Raton's stuff looked different, (but similar in the scaled down appearance). - MT

If you guys want to do castings of this (I'm sure you'll get it working), get the brass powder to dust the mold with. When you buff it out, it will look and shine like brass. I stuck some examples in this thread last year- I think. I'm wondering if this is like the Bofors rounds that look like a casing, but the round is inside of it and not externally visible. Not to be confused with the consumable rounds wich are caseless.. - MT

Wow, that box looks so 3D! Nice work! I never get tired of seeing the armored valk builds. Make sure to post completed shots! - MT

Derex and Duymon, those came out great! Cain, you gotta keep us up on your build. I saw MADDOX over 20 years ago and loved it! They need to mass produce that kit in styrene. You've got to see the movie, but a funny pose would be to have the mecha holding a bowl of Ramen in the manipulator and the hand holding chopsticks shoving a shrimp into the pilot's mouth.- MT

Sorry for the delay, I haven't been on this board a bit. It sounds like your paints are fully cured. The glossy paints actually have a coating in them to make the shiney appearance. They will be harder/denser. The downside, they take longer to cure and the finishes are easily marred if not allowed to cure. Keeping with the water based stuff sounds good with the humidity you're experiencing. The flat colors are different and will show a scratch or marr when scratched. You're actually micro sanding the paint when it gets marred. The solution, rub the whole thing if you screw it up The good news is you can clear coat it and then decal over it when the coating smooths out the surface. The coating also protects it. Another coating over your decal work will seal the whole thing. Hopefully that helps! - MT

That came out great! It's safe to say, if that was a real photo shoot, no one would be looking out for the enemy! - MT

Looks good VF-19! Looks nice-n-dirty! Thanks Dobber for posting here too! Those look great and I didn't know the wings fold on that design. I would have never seen it in the other thread. I don't spend a lot of time on the PC so the modelling threads are my main hangout here. My son and I LOVE the Yamato series and we'll have to watch that! Looks like I better go find that thread thread! Thanks again! - MT

I'm hoping those thin parts will be metal. Even in ABS, that looks thin. PetarB might be right about the limited number of transformations. As far as painting goes, I never painted my originals. I super glued them together and used a same color "blotch" method. It covered the seams, and if it came off, little chance of knowing the difference. The other painted areas didn't have much friction. I guess we'll see how it goes... - MT

Sweet builds Noyhasuer! The weathering looks great! Valkyrie Addict, I was going to joke about the hammer in the background, but then I saw it was the kit version of the toy. I hear you may need a bigger hammer - MT

Thanks for the additional photos! - MT

Nice work! I love the smooth animations into the various modes. - MT

Last year I completed a detailed VF-1 in 1/350 scale (still got to get it molded). I worked very carefully with the drawings, specs, and a scale ruler. Then I compared with other accurate 1/350 th kits. Everything matched up good - even with "anime magic" plaguing some things; it all worked out in the end. The lineart and specs are accurate in the books - unbelievably (since there are so many other errors I've found out the hardware doing scratch builds. - MT

That buildup looks great! I think the color of grey does it justice after all. Nice clean job! - MT