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MechTech

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  1. MechTech
    That's a BIG piece of resin! I've never heard of that stuff, but, after cleaning the model parts with soap and water (to get the mold release compounds off them) then sanding, it does the same thing. Most models will require sanding for seams and stuff, that alone with the mold release cleaned off will give you a prepped surface that any primer should stick to. The sanding gives the paint a surface to bite into. That was a BIG piece of resin that I'm assuming had no to little sanding on it because of the surface details he mentioned. It looked like that stuff is basically a flat to semi-gloss coat giving the primer a surface to stick to. In that case, it was probably a good idea. Normally though; not needed. By the way, Dupli-color is great stuff with a fine spray tip; I love it. Also, paint strokes should be one long movement over the length of the model. Stopping and starting over the model makes puddles or thicker areas that will give the paint runs or create darker spots. - MT
  2. MechTech
    I AM disappointed. How can you look at the lineart (even the animation which always changes) and come up with the scoop thing? It's reminiscent of Space Battleship Yamato! The Daedalus looks pretty good and the Promethius is too chunky; it needs to be channelled length wise. Thanks Jefuemon, PLEASE let us know if Hasegawa relpies to you. Somebody HAD to look at the graphics too see it was screwed up before going to mold creation. Maybe it was done by the boss' son and nobody wanted to speak up - MT
  3. MechTech
    Ultimately what you need to do is some tests. Most people swear by Future, but that needs an airbrush (something you'll want to consider if you stay with the hobby). Some people like Testor's clear coats, personally I haven't liked the way it laid down in the past. I actually use Krylon's clear coats and paints, plus you get about twice as much for the same price. The Tamiya should work fine. I mention testing first because things happen and you don't want to ruin your model. It looks like you're in Georgia; if that's the case, watch the humidity. High humidity will cloud your nice finish. I spray small amounts in an empty room, move the model to an empty room or closet and let it dry there. Then I'd just air-out the sprayed in drying areas later (usually the laundry room). The A/C keeps the humidity down, that's why a garage won't work (unless it's cooled too). Keep in mind if you are using decals, to use a gloss coat first, then another gloss coat to seal them. Decals on dull coat look like stickers - trust me! If you desire a dull coat (more realistic for the SDF-1), that will go on very last with any weathering. If you are panel lining with pencil, you're good. If you are using a wash or acrylics, you may want to before the clear coats. The clear coats, especially if you're new to this, can be heavy and fill your panel lines in. It's a lot, but hopefully that helps. I'm sure they'll be more people helping you here too! - MT
  4. MechTech
    Hey Strike_kf. Superglues pretty much have to be bought slower curing. You can't dilute them or anything. Look up Zap CA brands. Also mentioned above is taking a needle and cutting the top portion of the eye off. I made one years ago and use it a lot. When the glue dries between the prongs, just break it off to clean it.-MT
  5. MechTech
    Looking good guys! What's bad about the kit Schizo? Revell has some good 1/144 stuff, especially the Euro ones. It might be another companies original mold? Revell Germany even has original Matchbox molds in their line.- MT
  6. MechTech
    Hasegawa has a good reputation for accuracy, so I'm hoping they live up to it with this. They pulled off the fighters really well with only minor issues here and there so I hope that translates over to the SDF-1. Hopefully the items changed list is just to let customers know of the major changes; that we're just not buying a DYRL version with ships stuck on it. A full list of changes could get lengthy. Don't panic yet, it's too early! - MT
  7. MechTech
    That is one of the best lit models I've seen hands down!!! I love the detail in the dashboard and the start-up sequence. I was wondering what the tiny red thing was on the screen since it was so pixelated until I saw the whole sequence. COOL! - MT
  8. MechTech
    Talk about different subject matter! Cool idea! No budget for this, but I'll be following! - MT
  9. MechTech
    I like the colorations on that build! - MT
  10. MechTech
    From our very own builders: http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=38794&page=1 They may have encountered some questions you're going to ask too - MT
  11. MechTech
    I'm not normally in this thread area, but the work looks great!!! - MT
  12. MechTech
    Two words: Wooo Hooo! Isn't this the first styrene TV kit in 30 years or so!? Definitely got to get one! I'm glad it's got all the other extras the movie version has too! - MT
  13. MechTech
    Looking good Ignacio! I'm glad you're able to do it, I suck a sculpting people! - MT
  14. MechTech
    STILL looking great! Keep up the posts! - MT
  15. MechTech
    Hey Batcode, did you check here: http://www.macrossworld.com/macross/models/_models_plastic.htm There are more than just the 1/72nd scale kits listed there. Plus it has some kit extras mentioned. I don't know about value, but it can vary. An example is looking at auction websites. An old resin kit in a certain scale can go for a lot. Then a manufacturer produces that same subject in injection plastic and as people rush to buy the more affordable plastic kit, the resin kit goes down in price since there are fewer buyers. Plus there's variables like boxart and extras included in some kits. If there is a "list," I'd like to see it too! Hope that helps. - MT
  16. MechTech
    I usually spray outside and bring my stuff in to dry. Durring inclament weather I paint in the garage and let things cure in a closet. Spray booths can be easily built too if you have basic skills. I even used three PC fans blowing out a dryer vent once. Hope that helps!-MT
  17. MechTech
    Looks great Neptune! I like the artwork too. - MT
  18. MechTech
    Thanks guys for all your help! I will keep your ideas in mind. The class starts soon and the content was finally unlocked. It looks as though I only need charcoal and paper!!! Somebody wasn't talking when it came to posting course materials! The good news is it will be time to upgrade soon and you guys gave me some good ideas for hardware. Thanks again! - MT
  19. MechTech
    That looks great Atoyer! - MT
  20. MechTech
    Are you drawing these in 3D or hand sculpting? If you do virtual, they can easily be scaled. I would be interested in some, but in 1/350th (I know there's other out there too). - MT
  21. MechTech
    Dirty yes, but also AWESOME finnish! Nice work and changes! - MT
  22. MechTech
    Long story, but most of the places I lived didn't have this stuff. That's why I made the toolbox to help others. Another good place for general stuff is Scale Hobbyist. They take 2-3 days to ship, but I've been buying from them a few years now: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/%C2'> - MT
  23. MechTech
    Defeinitely gonna need to do a video for the completed project! - MT
  24. MechTech
    That sucks Derex. Like 007-VF1 said, battledamage is what came to my mind too. If the plastic is that bad, make new barrels. If you got a Dremmel or drill you can "lathe" one out with a sanding stick or file. If the barrels are good you have, that's the other way, carefully remove the tabs with a sanding stick. Just my two cents... - MT
  25. MechTech
    Thanks Azrael. TIGHT budget, about $500. I could go refurbished, but my limitations are based around Adobe Illustrator's requirements (for school). CPU is not a problem, but the graphics card needs to be a minimum of the list below. Best Buy is the only big chain near me. They have an ASUS A10 with R7. I'm starting to think that's my best bet right now. Other refurbed PC's seem to have below requirements graphics card. Thanks for your input! - MT NVIDIA Quadro K Series Intel HD Graphics 4000 Series AMD Radeon R7 / R9 Series Graphics 8 GB RAM P4 or Athelon CPU (definitely got to do better though)
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