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MechTech

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Everything posted by MechTech

  1. That build is awesome!!! Best bridge build ever too! I would personally love a 1/350th anything from the SDF-1. Its in my toolbox, but one of THE best places to get styrene is US Plastics. I don't think that helps in Denmark though.-MT
  2. That looks awesome! Yes, go with the Preiser figures, they're some of the best. - MT
  3. Ha ha, that sucks! - MT
  4. Ha ha, I love the South East Asia camo scheme! Take that Viet Cong Zentrans! :-) - MT
  5. Looks great so far! Is it going to have an animated creature gritting its teeth painted on it? ;-) - MT
  6. Yeah, the Preiser figures are accurate and detailed - even down to 1/200 scale! The bulk packs have anything you'll need.-MT
  7. The drone looks great! The Ki-43 looks good-relatively speaking ;-) looks like the ones found after the war with weathering.-MT
  8. I gotta jump on the flat n dirty bandwagon. They're supposed to have been around a while and poorly maintained - like my first car! :-) -MT
  9. I miss the old Nu Gundam kit I used to have with metal chest and leg parts! The M+ drone came out great! The Lagrange starship reminds me of ZZ Top's song of the same name :>) - MT
  10. That's a great idea and looks good too! Too bad the blonde is extra!:-) - MT
  11. Awesome detail work and engineering the magnets!-MT
  12. That's cool! Interesting use of parts.- MT
  13. I thought the Salt and Pepa referance was cool! And not just cause we're all fans of an 80's animated feature! That looks great WM Change. Maybe I'll try it on something big enough to see it on.- MT
  14. The Harpy came out great Zombie! Derex, the crab family looks great! Way to keep at it despite the setbacks. (Now go get revenge on the crabbing fishermen my pets):-) - MT
  15. It's looking great Derex! I hate it when my plans get foiled too!-MT
  16. Will do!
  17. That's great, especially the safety concerns! I've read a couple of tributes to fellow modelers who have died as a result of working with resins (the dust getting into he lung specifically). Since some resin kits can have gaping holes, you can also build up the gaps with simple CA and baking soda. The baking soda is also an accelerant for the glue. - MT
  18. I love that kit and I'm glad to see the internals were kept interchangeable too! That is still one of the best detailed kits and he did it justice! Congrats! - MT
  19. Thanks Ultimateone for the interest! Yeti has been busy at school and delayed with the casting. He's done with school so we should see some parts soon. I WILL notify ALL interested persons on this thread when we can begin delivering. I'll give him a good guilt trip too - MT
  20. That finish is a vast improvement over the factory one MW Cheng! That LCS model is 1/350 scale? It looks like 1/100, especially with the PE tie-downs.-MT
  21. Great work guys! Zombie - Oh yeah, GTC - Galactic Trade Commission! THE only place (a long time ago) I could find a lot of my models. I bought that guy tickets to Hawaii with all my purchases. Neptunesurvey knows him too. - MT
  22. Looks great! Nicely finished. The only thing better than this is a basket of REAL crabs and butter sauce! - MT
  23. Regarding the LED lighting, give it a try! The secret is to plan it out. Hollow models are easier to run the wires or fiber optics through obviously, solid resin parts need to be drilled through to run your wires or fiber optics. If the model is hollow you can put the batteries in it but as was stated, they can leak. You can put the batteries AND the switch in the base. Just put a small connector in the foot and you can disconnect the model from the base. I built a 1/35th Patlabor Alphonse with LEDs in the shoulders. It makes it stand out. Love the Su Noyhauser. Got to see some abandoned ones downrange. Story goes one guy sat in one and pulled the ejection seat handle THINKING it was no longer armed...;-) The fighter looks great Zombie! I managed to get one of those because I love the design. Still gotta see Crusher Joe though!-MT
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