MechTech

Thanks guys. You're right Hiriyu, it's fun-work (the words almost go together). Isamu, it will be great to see you get started on the 1/12 scale Valk. No excuse now, there's pilots out there that could fit into it! - MT

Thanks Dave for sharin'. I though I saw that news article a while back too. Much better than sleepy ole' grey on grey. - MT

Haven't you seen the previews for the new Wonder Woman movie yet . - MT

Like Winterdyne said, water slide look best. If you have a gloss surface, apply them and clear coat after that, they look way better and add more realism; especially in good lighting . - MT

Wow, look at the really long metal tube "drying rack." Congrats HWR! - MT

Thanks for the update Guld! - MT

UPDATE 16 DECEMBER 07 I've decided to follow the law of physics now and just make my life (and this project easier). The linear drive was modified (the older soldered bracket work cut off) and flush mounted with the deck in the middle. This pulls the ramp up evenly now. Light weight rails will be added to ensure the ramp moves evenly on both X and Y axis (yes there's a little play). Top view. From the side. Ramp attached to the drive arm and a closeup of the hinge point The next step are the rails and the drive mechanism. This thing sits right below the deck so I don't have a lot of room. I may need a universal joint to move the drive (motor or gear case) down a little. That's it for now. - MT

Thanks for posting that link. I think I know where some of my Christmas money may go. That IR measure looks like the "disco ball" without good coloring/effect (it matches the rest of the scheme). - MT

That's coming together great. And it will be bullet proof in real life too . - MT

Nice work UN Marine. Scratch building takes guts! HWR did a great job on that one. - MT

Thanks for sharing! Red Dawn, I learned how to do an emergency pee in my gas tank from that - haven't had to do it yet though . - MT

Send a PM to Ranger565 and see if he can get you one. I actually bought one from him some time ago and he specializes in the classics. - MT

I saw all the comments so I just had to see. That's SHAWEeeeeet man! Excellent use of colors and designs. If you're going to any modeling shows, bring it! You'll get lot's of comments (good ones). - MT

Welcome Sonic! I agree with my fellow MWers and would like to add that you do a "search" for whatever questions you may have. It has probably been done here before! You'd be surprised what you can find around here. I used to subscribe to Fine Scale Modeler. I still buy it occasionally, but with all the help around here and the ability to ask questions (like you did), this "place" has what you need. Keep up on your skills! - MT

Yeah, Codam23 has a good idea there. It's not hard once you get the tools. - MT

That's just wrong - MT

Thanks rotorhead. I'm ALWAYS open to ideas. You guys have given me some great ones that I've used! BigF, yes I think we should all have a "My Little Pony Bike." Those of us that are older though can remove the training wheels/stabilizers Seriously though, thanks! A sense of normalcy is a good thing! - MT

Looks awesome man! Now you just need the fuselage, wings, engines... I'm thinking about buying it (I'll have to talk my wallet into it)! - MT

Radomes (the plastic covers over radars) don't work as well when painted with some paints. When painted like that, the signal scatters or is received with impaired fidelity. Special paint and/or patterns are often used. It took me a while to learn that one. - MT

You have definitely come a long way! Great job(s) Cool8or!!! - MT

Back at it again. So far so good! - MT

Thanks everyone for your support! IAD, sorry, I thought you meant the final drive gear chain. The final drive gear is a Hitech servo arm with the arm cut off and the core epoxied into an old Tamiya car gear. However, Servocity has these: http://www.servocity.com/html/servo_mount_gears.html. I made another one last year to rotate the drive motor pods on the lower hull. Rotorhead, thank you for the help. I posted this earlier: "Chrono, The top will open up with either a servo or another type of screw and lead mechanism. It's on the very top of the hanger so weight will be the biggest issue; especially with the door construction." You are right. The screw drive is the way to go. Helping someone fix a flat tire gave me inspiration after using a jack with a screw drive. Thanks Isamu for the offer! UPDATE 12 December 07 Well, at least a small one anyhow. Good news and bad news. The bad news is that when I put a rail on the other end to support the ramp, there was too much drag and the ramp kept going back at an angle causing the drive to drag badly. I thought from the start I'd put the drive down the center (one drive, one motor, less weight). I tried to put the drive on the side for better appearance and now another setback. The good news is that I am putting the drive in the center with two light weight rails on the ship sides as guides. With the drive in the middle, it will always pull/push from the center solving my problem and keeping the weight and complexity down. Where the drive will go (blank tube showing location). I cut off the angled supports and soldered two square tubes on either side. The tubes are almost flush with the edge, but not fully to allow the edge of the deck to rest on them. The drive will sit flush with the floor in the center of the hanger deck. I didn't want anything in the middle of the floor; but oh well! Note the modified gear case in the photo (flattened end). The motor is a rewound Mabuchi 280 with added ball bearings. I think I will go with a Mabuchi RS-555 (12v) motor instead. Lots of quiet torque and no gears at only 3v! It just weighs more! Now I gotta go make it fit in the deck nicely and cut carefully! - MT

Looks great man! - MT

ALL those kits look great! The variable kits have a special place with me since they were the first kits I ever built from Macross - before I saw the series! I just got tired of building 2-14's, 2 SR-71's, 3- A-10's etc etc. - MT

ce25254, I couldn't do a lot of my work without a pinvise! This place is the bomb: http://www.micromark.com/ They are in NY so shippping should be quick. Search "pin vise" and take your pick! 21105 is comfortable for first time use. Then you'll NEED a #60362 set or for the tiny (smaller than needles) stuff #82416. Search for "drill sets" and be amazed. Hope that helps! - MT