MechTech

Thanks for the update. Still no reply for the second time. Looks like we need some intervention. - MT

Looks great! I was starting to think this thread was dying a premature death! - MT

Looks like the VF-2SS is quite popular despite not making it into the "REAL" Macross continuem. - MT

Maiden Japan, if Prime were real, he'd be real proud! Looks awesome. Makes my ship look like a canoe! VF-19, it's nice to see a Raptor after all the aircraft around here seam to emulate parts of it. - MT

You da' man! - MT

This is another side project I'm working on too (great minds think alike ). Of course I'm building in 1/200th, but I'm very interested in your project. I ordered some HO scale monster truck tires that are right on the money for size and they're rubber too. If I was you I'd start looking in toy stores for the tires. The rest is easy once you get your wheels and tires sorted out. Please keep us posted on your progress! - MT

I'm trying to e-mail him again. Still interested in a group buy if it comes down to that. -- MT

Is that what happens when you bolt together a bunch of Tonka trucks ? Good work and huge! That thing's tall! -- MT

If you're on a budget/limited resources, the newer Krylon enamel paints have a VERY fine spray and settle down flat. They'll only run if you really overdo it! - MT

Looks awesome! Now you just need the gatling gun barrel set! - MT

Formation lights are electroluminescent (EL) strips that basically glow brightly (and cool). A lot of household items have them. You can see them in formation, but not down on the ground like the other lights. It's a safety thing. Here's the civilian version - http://www.e-lite.com/electroluminescent.htm - MT

Nice! And it's not all "blocky" looking.- MT

If you're still looking for a good putty to thin out, I've used Milliput for years. The white stuff is the best in terms of texure and it white like your styrene. Once you knead it together, you can use water over the surface to smooth it and the water softens it up some. It dries rock hard though. Sanding it next to styrene may produce thinner styrene areas depending on where you're using it. - MT

I knew it would be huge, but that's huge (and great work!) - MT

I've got the same kit from the same company, it's nice. - MT

If they're about $10, then I'm down for two! Don't know how we'll do this. I got no replies from him on my e-mail. - MT

Thanks ahiachris!

Nuthin but love from us Capt!

Maiden Japan, that looks great and like it will be HUGE! Miriya, running a scribing tool (several times) is really about it unless you saw or machine excess away. Scribe at least half the thickness and bend it to break it off. You can score more shallow, but the accuracy of your cut decreases. Yes, then you have to clean up the edges, but that's life! On the positive side, a Fiskars rolling cutter IS the BOMB for thinner plastic like .020" - -perfect for strip cutting too. NO raised edges, just cut and glue! - MT

It looks great. I'm thinking you need to go one step further and make a model like and SDF-1, ARMD or oh, I don't know, a Daedalus! - MT

HWR, you're getting really good. That last paint job for the tiger meet is SOooo realistic! That flanker is huge. It looks like you could launch a 1/200 VF-1 from each intake! - MT

That looks awesome! The decals and paint job look like they could be canon. I am bummed that the mecha from MII weren't more popular (even though the story wasn't so popular). - MT

Looks awesome! Did the leg art come from the Macross modeling book, or was it part of the kit? - MT

Thanks guys! I actually got to get some work done today. I got my assignment in on time, so I rewarded myself with most of today working on parts. BigF, I used Corel Draw, but even Power Point will work! I ran out of paper so I bought clear and white sheets from http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/produ...14&catid=14 I also bought their FLAT coating. I wiped the flat coating down with a dry rag after about five coats because it had a "dust" on it from the flat coating. I then just got a brush and brushed on a coat of Micro Super Film. I put a few coats of flat coating thinking it would be enough - nope! Still need the Micro Super Film. The end result gave me a nice semi-gloss finish. Now you know how to do it too! UPDATE 24 JANUARY 2009 After building all those lights on the sides (44 so far), I realized, "how the heck am I going to mask those!" I tried tape and liquid mask. Neither worked or was easy to use in the cramped areas. I prayed and thought, "what else would work?" Then a little divine intervention, I was reminded I have some rectangle tubing. I tried it and it fits snug right over the lights! I set up a jig and sanded/cut about sixty pieces - talk about monotonous! Then I set up a jig on my drill press to mill out a 1/8" goove for the LEDs in the lights to fit into. After I put some tape over these, they'll slide right on like a cap and mask the lights! Remember when I said I was done with the inside details? I forgot about the catwalks over the light conduits! It took most of today, but I made 16 of these. Each rail was Z gauge fencing. After I cleaned up the mold seams, I drilled 7 - .07mm holes in each tab sticking out to put the posts into. Then I got some FINE piano wire and cut all those little pieces (also with a jig) to make the posts with. The posts were then rigged with hair-fine wire. The wire was glued to the posts after positioning it. It looks better than photo-etched parts and doesn't have the "flat" look to it either. The wire has a realistic "droop" to it too. Last week I started to wire things up when I realized the warning lights (blinking and strobing) were not in yet. More details to be built and added in. I saved a few silicone inserts that you put in your teeth I found on sale 8 years ago (yes, I was planning this build that far back!). They contain a flashing LED module that strobes across 4 LEDs. Add some leftover Patlabor lenses, machine them to an angle and glue to carefully cut pieces of styrene, and you get this... I bought my children a few of those ring lolypops that flash. After they finished the candy, I cut the rings open, removed the chip and filed the board to about 3mm wide. The LED was remounted and the whole assembly was put in a styrene case. and the lights strobing/flashing Lights_Flashing.MPG The "Warn" button will activate these. They are for when the main hatch or ramp are in operation. You don't want one of your crew in the way and get crushed That's it for now. I think my next step will be to paint the catwalks white before gluing them in. Oh yeah, fine mesh strips will sit on top of the catwalks when completed to simulate grading. - MT

ahiachris, do you think you can help us get through to him? Thank you! - MT