MechTech

I knew it would be huge, but that's huge (and great work!) - MT

I've got the same kit from the same company, it's nice. - MT

If they're about $10, then I'm down for two! Don't know how we'll do this. I got no replies from him on my e-mail. - MT

Thanks ahiachris!

Nuthin but love from us Capt!

Maiden Japan, that looks great and like it will be HUGE! Miriya, running a scribing tool (several times) is really about it unless you saw or machine excess away. Scribe at least half the thickness and bend it to break it off. You can score more shallow, but the accuracy of your cut decreases. Yes, then you have to clean up the edges, but that's life! On the positive side, a Fiskars rolling cutter IS the BOMB for thinner plastic like .020" - -perfect for strip cutting too. NO raised edges, just cut and glue! - MT

It looks great. I'm thinking you need to go one step further and make a model like and SDF-1, ARMD or oh, I don't know, a Daedalus! - MT

HWR, you're getting really good. That last paint job for the tiger meet is SOooo realistic! That flanker is huge. It looks like you could launch a 1/200 VF-1 from each intake! - MT

That looks awesome! The decals and paint job look like they could be canon. I am bummed that the mecha from MII weren't more popular (even though the story wasn't so popular). - MT

Looks awesome! Did the leg art come from the Macross modeling book, or was it part of the kit? - MT

Thanks guys! I actually got to get some work done today. I got my assignment in on time, so I rewarded myself with most of today working on parts. BigF, I used Corel Draw, but even Power Point will work! I ran out of paper so I bought clear and white sheets from http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/produ...14&catid=14 I also bought their FLAT coating. I wiped the flat coating down with a dry rag after about five coats because it had a "dust" on it from the flat coating. I then just got a brush and brushed on a coat of Micro Super Film. I put a few coats of flat coating thinking it would be enough - nope! Still need the Micro Super Film. The end result gave me a nice semi-gloss finish. Now you know how to do it too! UPDATE 24 JANUARY 2009 After building all those lights on the sides (44 so far), I realized, "how the heck am I going to mask those!" I tried tape and liquid mask. Neither worked or was easy to use in the cramped areas. I prayed and thought, "what else would work?" Then a little divine intervention, I was reminded I have some rectangle tubing. I tried it and it fits snug right over the lights! I set up a jig and sanded/cut about sixty pieces - talk about monotonous! Then I set up a jig on my drill press to mill out a 1/8" goove for the LEDs in the lights to fit into. After I put some tape over these, they'll slide right on like a cap and mask the lights! Remember when I said I was done with the inside details? I forgot about the catwalks over the light conduits! It took most of today, but I made 16 of these. Each rail was Z gauge fencing. After I cleaned up the mold seams, I drilled 7 - .07mm holes in each tab sticking out to put the posts into. Then I got some FINE piano wire and cut all those little pieces (also with a jig) to make the posts with. The posts were then rigged with hair-fine wire. The wire was glued to the posts after positioning it. It looks better than photo-etched parts and doesn't have the "flat" look to it either. The wire has a realistic "droop" to it too. Last week I started to wire things up when I realized the warning lights (blinking and strobing) were not in yet. More details to be built and added in. I saved a few silicone inserts that you put in your teeth I found on sale 8 years ago (yes, I was planning this build that far back!). They contain a flashing LED module that strobes across 4 LEDs. Add some leftover Patlabor lenses, machine them to an angle and glue to carefully cut pieces of styrene, and you get this... I bought my children a few of those ring lolypops that flash. After they finished the candy, I cut the rings open, removed the chip and filed the board to about 3mm wide. The LED was remounted and the whole assembly was put in a styrene case. and the lights strobing/flashing Lights_Flashing.MPG The "Warn" button will activate these. They are for when the main hatch or ramp are in operation. You don't want one of your crew in the way and get crushed That's it for now. I think my next step will be to paint the catwalks white before gluing them in. Oh yeah, fine mesh strips will sit on top of the catwalks when completed to simulate grading. - MT

ahiachris, do you think you can help us get through to him? Thank you! - MT

Welcome Bluemaxx. I quite toys decades ago when I was like 5! I had a toy F-16 (when they first came out) and it was alright. Then I got a model F-16 and it looked like the real thing! Not to mention all the ordnance, the engine came out, and it had a wheeled stand for the engine to go on (you guys knwo what I'm talking about out there-they've re-issued it too). The models may not be as durable, but they will be far superior for accuracy, detail, and over all appearance. The price is much better too (as you said). Just get some white gloves - MT

Looking great so far. I try to stay away from modeling figures. That's one area I need some skills in! - MT

Thanks SDK for posting! The colors do look cool. Hasegawa has always made great models and also milked the molds for all their worth too! I advise you guys shoot Hasegawa e-mails with suggestions. Revell Germany built its new 1/144 C-17 on requests by customers. You never know... - MT

Hong Kong I believe. I e-mailed him and am waiting to hear back. Hopefully he can read English (let alone his PC having the English character plug-in). - MT

Welcome Skonchboy. Great concept! It reminds me of the cardboard SDF-1. I had some of my Nichimo valks hanging on clear line "flying" around it. That thing took up most of my ceiling! Good idea and I'd keep pushing the envelope with it if I were you! - MT

I'll be putting my order in and the older set is only about $25!!! Might have to get more! - MT

And everyone thinks I build in a small scale! That's awesome work! Pricey though! You could put a whole squadron on your coffee pot, but don't drink any when painting! Talk about needing steady hands! - MT Oops, correction this is about 9 US dollars, or 7 UK pounds if I read right!

ce25254 - I think your skills are just fine. Besides, no project is the same as the real thing! Big F and 505, With the classes I'm taking right now, even thinking about a Prometheus is crazy! By 2027 people will be like, "SDF-1 what?" I just realized that wherever I move next, I'll need a whole wall for the Daedalus! Maybe over the bed in the bedroom, I'm sure my wife would like it. She's want to stick flowers in the front of it or something like . Now where would I put th SDF-1? By the way, rumor has it someone else might be building another Daedalus from scratch. It's NOT me and it won't be as large a scale. - MT

All the details make it look much better! That's where building gets separated from art. Great job! - MT

No sweat! I love that book. Some of the emblems look dumb, but some look awesome. I think the ones for the Monster look bad. I was thinking of getting a BIG woman in a bikini holding two big cannon barrels. The title would say "BIG guns." - -MT

Looks great! - MT

Somewhere there are a couple of naked valks shivering in the cold of space without boosters Just kidding. Great idea! I did something to a battleship after seeing Space Battleship Yamato for the first time (about !@#$ years ago). You just need a BIG wavegun now and you're good! - MT

I'm guessing somebody wants the "Vamp" character. If you get stuck, let me know. It shouldn't be hard to composite something close to that. - MT