MechTech

Thanks ahiachris. I know there are a lot of us out there that can help each other out with great tool ideas. Some tools are just way too over priced or not the right size for hobbies. - MT

I'm glad all my research helped out another crazy person wanting to build one of these I am interested actually. I don't know how much printing would be, but my "evil scheme" was to take an exhisting hull bottom to cut time and cut out the rest of the "boxy" sides from styrene to put onto it. The bow is really weird shaped so that might have to be re-done too. I've got my CNC engraver going, but I don't have the right software to set up the machining - that would make this much cheaper to produce in styrene and yeah, a kit is possible! More like a kit conversion. Buy a 1/350 class Nimitz kit and HEAVILY modify it. Of course I'm still wanting to PRINT a Monster and destroids in 1/350 (with or without this project). If I can yank Neptune into this, he'd be up to it too I'm sure. I even thought of doing a Prometheus, but that would be a TON more work! It'd still be cool though! We'rte talking 3-3.5' models. I have the Valk master ready to go to molding for the Promethius (or whatever - more on that later). Back to your stuff - enough thread hijacking - MT

I use mine all the time. I'm trying to make a good rotary table for it since the ones I've found (3") all get slammed in reviews. I mostly work micro scales so precision is a must. Have fun! - MT

Nice work guys! I love the PS3 vault, the Mig and the VF-2SS. We could use some today to get rid of the pesky reporters!!! I've been working on the tools for my workbench to resolve some issues. I also have NO BUDGET! I mill a lot with my drill press and an X-Y table. The drill press has no threaded up-down on it so it's all micro-adjusting by hand. That takes multiple attempts and hurts the eyes. So I got some threaded rod, a skateboard bearing, handle parts, an old motor can and some threaded "T" nuts to make what you see. Then there is the issue of cutting tiny styrene pieces cleanly the first time and getting the angle right. So I got parts from a busted up hard drive, a razor blade, and some .080" styrene to make a cutter. The last bunch of parts you see are "Rotary Table MkII." I need to be able to precisely spin a styrene rod or piece around to mill it. So I took an old drill, a busted up VCR head, and spare parts from "stuff." I'll post a photo when it's done. Next week I'm going for building a radio out of coconuts and bamboo - MT

The cool part I love about our forum is all the new stuff I learn about or kits that have come up for sale (home grown or commercial). I found some cool stuff I thought I'd share since I've never seen anyone here use it before. A contractor and his crew I know was about to coomplete their term. He knew about me building models so we discussed doing something different as a parting gift. So he commissioned me to design and cast some insignias for his organization. When I went to go order the basics to do the casting (I can only do open casts where bubbles don't matter much), I saw Micro Mark has some metal powders for casting. Basically you cast your original in the usual silicone RTV, then you take the mold and put some of either Bronze, Brass, or Iron powder into it. Let it completely run around and cover the mold. Then take the rest of the powder and pour it back into the bottle. Then you use a clear or nearly clear casting resing to cover the metal dusting. You can use the transparent resin entirely, or just cover it and then use opaque resin to fisnish the casting. I used all clear and added a brown tint to it with the Brass powder. You can also mix the powder into the resin, but that uses more that no one sees. When the resin fully cures, you take a FINE grade sanding block and LIGHTLY buff it out. IT IS metal that you're looking at and it's "cold cast." As we all know brass tarnishes, so I clear coated mine since powders react fast to the elements. The photo shows one reject that I buffed half of and left the other half unbuffed to test it out. Note the tons of air bubbles in it! Then I used a off blue wash to simulate oxidation and make the details stand out. The finsihed box has a brass plaque to show color simularites. The results are below. I hope this helps someone with what they're thinking of doing next. The only trick to using this is to let the resin run smoothly over it (like with a toothpick to deliver it to the mold surface). The resin can actually wash the dust off if you pour it too quick. I only did that once after I got the hang of the process. This is going into my next Macross project to do some stands! Hopefully this helps somebody. - MT

Your best bet is to get what side profile lineart you can and superimpose it on a scaled grid (on your PC). When you have the picture scaled right, paste it onto your material. The Captain also uses MDF. The plastic boards can get pricey. It all depends on what size you're buuilding and how small/large the parts are. By the way, if you won't be a big user of a mill, I just use a hoby variable speed drill press with an X-Y table on it (photos posted up on "What's lying on your workbench soon). Hope that helps! - MT

I need to get on MW more often! The Daedalus looks awesome EXO! I think you hit it dead on! I'm just catching this tremendous buildup. Any chance of making one in 1/350 scale I'm seriously considering doing one in that to match the rest of my ship models. The "Big Baby" needs to find a good home! I love that the hatch opens and some photo etch would definitely look awesome! Can't wait to see photos. - MT P.S. I'd love to see an Asuka II as well. I'm SERIOSLY thinking of modifying a 1/350 Nimitz kit. Then again, there's no 1/30 mecha from that series to go on it! - MT

There definitiely needs to be another 1/5000 kit (or bigger) of this. I was disappointed at Bandai not re-releasing this along with their other re-releases. At least we got the factory again though! My 1/5000 hasn't faired the last two moves too well. - MT

We definitely need more photos - MT

PM Valkyrie. He should still have them available. The base is taking longer than expected, but still progressing. - MT

Thanks for sharing these! That 1/100 YF-19 is supermodel skinny! It's good to see some of the kits I haven't seen before too. - MT

That's a cool looking kit and a nice clean build! Thanks for posting! - MT

That looks awesome Kurisama! Nice job! Makes me want to pull out the old Imai kit! - MT

For all of you hoping to get a certain release by a company, always remember this: "if you make an elaborate and detailed scratch build of a kit because one has not been released, a manufacturer WILL build it!" I think it's one of Murphy's laws. But like all laws, they do get broken. - MT

Headlaser! - MT

Thanks, that looks like a great start. Benson, you know what they say about trusting Cardassians - MT

Those frames look great! I just did some casting the other day with brown pigmented resin and it STILL creamed up and did not cure right. Come on cooler weather!!! - MT

Both my son and Daughter are on the Lego Ninjago kick right now. We've been buying them the smaller kits, but birthdays are around the corner. They're already plotting and scheming what they're gonna get and what parts/weapons/characters they're gonna trade each other. I think they're gonna get the nice Lego table for them to build their projects on. The old table is smaller and wobbly. The funny part about all of this is when they say what they're gonna get, I ask them, "WOW! Who's gonna pay for all that stuff!" - MT

Last photo with the valk underneath saying, "please don't pee on me, PLEASE don't pee on me!" That looks AWESOME MIKE! I've been waiting for some new photos on this. Congrats and jobe AWEOSMELY DONE! - MT

Nice repair on the intakes. That too is also my favorite Ghost design. It's coming along great. - MT

Regult to the Valk: "you're all washed up!" That came out great! It's a nice clean build. - MT

The Monster is my favorite of the classics. I like the mechanics on the spade and the over all accuracy of it with the line art versus the 1/1160 kit. - MT

I got mine last week. This version of the kit is nice and the colors are more accurate. I had to keep my son from drooling all over it - figuratively speaking - MT

Reversible hands, that's a cool idea! That will go with my reversible jacket I do like the decal work and originality. - MT

So far, so good! I've found if you're having trouble with paint colors, use natural sunlight to check them. Sounds "dah!" simple, but sometime I forget the difference with the two lights when picking colors. - MT