MechTech

Looking AWESOME so far. Yes, more photos when done please! - MT

That looks great! The 1/200 toy is a pretty good referance, but looks like a Gundam fighter in Gerwalk - MT

Looks GREAT! This thing would be cool printed in 3D resin! - MT

It's AWESOME work like this that I have to get my head out of the model building section more often to see! ALL of your work looks AWESOME Nel! Hopefully we'll be able to get a poster of your collage when you're done. I'm opposite, I SUCK at people - drawing and sculpting! But I can scratch build models and line draw machines. Don't feel bad, few can do both well. - MT

Thanks for sharing Zinjo! - MT

Looks AWESOME man! Nice work with the details and hanging in there being patient. Great job! - MT

That's cool! Half model, half hardware store! In 1/6 scale looks you could fit REAL turbines in that puppy with bottle rockets for munitions. Sorry, just the meniacle side coming out Thank for keeping us posted. - MT

I'm glad I popped in thsi side of the forums! Looks AWESOME! The weathering and details make it believable! Thanks for sharing! - MT

In the words of Dr. Frankenstein, "IT'S ALIVE" Great to see one of these baby's come to life! - MT

Tim Burton claymation backdrop Although I thought the same thing as VF-19 initially! - MT

It sounds like a poor grade/batch of ABS for sure. It happens and I've even seen it crack in R/C car chassis like it was peanut brittle. No, peanut brittle is stronger! And they charge how much for these!? Sorry guys. If the joints don't have to have to have friction in them, I use silicone oil (like they use in R/C car shocks). I use it on styrene without it crazing the plastic (vegetable oils and petroleum oils can soften or craze plastic). Hopefully it's safe on ABS which is a more robust plastic. The smoother action may take the stress of the plastic joint. - MT

It looks great! It looks naked without the missiles! Get some clothes err, missiles on that thing! Tell your client their model is only half done In all seriousness though, it does look great! The lining and shading aren't overdone. - MT

The quadruple parralell antennae across the nose (and possibly on the lower intakes) are probably IFF antenna. The two buldges either side of that are probably the missile detection sensors. The larger teardrop on the left side of the nose is probably a passive infra red ID system (similar to the Russian and European systems). Similar bulges can also be built in night vision systems. The side bulges on either side of the forward part of the canopy are probably ECM antenna. The eastern birds have many variants and packages from many companies. There's quite a few of them and various counties rivalries seem to breed more opporunity for another firm to develope something for their less "skilled" allies. There's a reason the 16's are popular though! I hope that helps somewhat. - MT

It looks as though they just used .010" styrene cutout with generic photoetched grill details. you can do it man! - MT

That's awesome! I'd like the room to go with the Seig X2, but it's size and weight are actually too much for my bench. Plus I have to shuffle my machines around (and leave room for the children to build with me occasionally ). I would love to work with Renshape, it's just so expensive! I'm going to try the Captain's particle board idea and see how that fares for the next build. Micro Mark came up with the Micro Mill (versus the Mini Mill that you have). It's huge compared to my drill press (which Seig actually markets as the X0). But it's a custom build for them. It's like Sherline's stuff (same size spindle too), but it's rugged cast iron, the neck can go all the way down to 90 degrees (parallel to the table). I can actually lathe with it in that position. Another bonus was that it didn't need any cleanup (no red grease all over). It's about 50 lbs, belt drive, 0-2800 RPM and 150W motor. There are some great billows covering the slides and it's got zero adjustable wheels on it. I think your X2 will be perfect for what you're doing. LMS also has bigger tables for your machine too if you need it. Are you getting a rotary table for your X2. They REALLY broaden your capabilities! Please post machining photos of your progress and builds! - MT

If anybody knows, it's these guys: http://www.f-16.net/articles_article10.html In the buisiness, most people call it the Falcon or Lawn Dart less affectionately. - MT

That's POOR engineering! It should not be ABS (especially if ti's a bad batch). They should have used metal and/or POM to make those parts (which of course cost more). - MT

The lighting colors look great Derex. It does look bright; is it just camera burn in? Are they actually LED strips, or luminescent light strips? Chronocidal's wax paper is a good idea and easier than calculating a resistor! Nice job on the joints erikos! The lean reminds me of the commerical with the ladies leaning due to poor diet. What you feedin' that valk? - MT

Beautiful and clean build! I think you got it just right for this type of craft. Just enough wear without looking like an old pair of jeans! I've always liked this variant. - MT

That's great you got a mill. I just got one last week. I've been using my drill press with an X-Y table. It's worked, but was VERY limited in the bits I could use and adjustments I could make. Plus it wasn't rigid enough to machine metal. The next step will be to get a lathe come tax time. I'm probably going with Sherline sice they have a awesome reputation and they chucks and parts will go with my mill! Show us some pics sometime. A couple of us are talking about starting up a machining thread to help out theose wanting to get started. - MT

Do you have a photo of the area and materials used? Is this a repair or custom? I only ask because of the type of glues and function of them. - MT

That sucks! And as much as they charge for it too! As long as the internal hinge is metal and the outer loop plastic, you can use some of Plastruct's weld or Bondene to glue the plastic. It WILL break again. I reccomened then taking ABS or styrene sheet strips and wrapping them around outer plastic loop of the hinge. Either way, the value of the toy is affected (broke or fixed), but at least it will be functional again. If you use styrene, you may need to use Bondene. Styrene does not stick to ABS well with solvent glues. Superglue works great, but will probably freeze up the joint. Hope that helps! - MT

I was wondering about that. It's coming along great and your custom work is clean! - MT

In order: - Electric Indigo, The Viper is looking good so far. That is the Israeli version; right? It's got more bumps than a dirt road - still looks cool though! - Wasabi-san, The Bird of Prey looks awesome! GREAT paint!. Too bad they didn't have the lighting kit when you started it. The SSM kit is awesome! - Noyhauser, You can never get enough F-16 love - even when they fly over your house shaking the dust off the walls! - Erikos, it's good to see some valk love. Which kit is that? - Shaorin, it's not looking bad at all. Just remember they get better as you get more experience! Are you using masking tape to help with the lines? I can't see to well in the photo. Nice use of Legos - my son agrees - MT

That's cool! It must be from season three. My son and I just finished watching season two - the ending sucked! I was like - "what, that's it after all they went through!" - MT