Duymon

he only needs to make one-sided molds. Sounds crazy but cuz I am lazy i just use mold putty mixed one to one by hand, press the putty onto the piece on a flat surface, then make molds from the impression. dont get cheap quick resins like alumilite unless you love bubbles. I use smooth on and after a pour into the one piece i cheat by putting the mold against a large flat surface like a cd-case. After cure, very minimal cept for some flash that got between the mold and the flat surface. This only works for one piece molds, two piecers are a whole different ball game

Saburo's setup is pretty nice. Light box with black backdrop and a reflection board goes a very long way in making great looking photos.

i want a mei leelong custom from mac30 :0

they could sell a lot more vf-27's if it were a nice low viz grey instead of magenta. Heck, Luca woulda sold way more had his valk been a nice low viz grey with yellow nosecone like the elintseeker. Off color valks = meh.... it's really a shame cuz it's actually a pretty nice mold

Alcohol with some precision will solve that really easy. If that scares you too much you can remove that triangle peace (they are really lightly glued) and get a fine sanding stick. I recommend Squadron fine grit Sanding Stick Use the black rough lightly to remove the blue, use white on a bigger area to soften the scratches and then the grey to buff it to a silky smooth. (only on the white plastic obviously) Or you could always use your fingernail and scratch really hard I guess

Just to be safe, mask the blue you don't want removed with masking tape. I normally use a paper towel folded into a little square, at least 3-4 folds thick. Then gently apply some rubbing alcohol to the paper tower (NOT THE TOY) on the thick corner that resulted from the fold. After that gently rub and apply force enough to get some friction on the blighted blue paint but NOT so much that the rubbing alcohol oozes out of the paper towel and all over your YF-25 (which would suck because ALL the paint is vulnerable to rubbing alcohol) With some patience and a few applications you can remove 99% of the unwanted blue.

For Ozzy : Supers near retail because he only wears them in one episode. The Armored set is preferred but goes for a premium For Alto : I've seen the supers go for more than the armored parts at times O_o. If you don't wanna pay a premium you can always grab the upcoming tornados this month For Michael : Supers are still at Retail, tornados coming up soon. Honestly the supers look better on him. Luca : Stuck with Supers only, have to buy at least one set for the drones unless somebody else is willing to sell them 25A : Supers only, still easy to find at retail and totally worth it. Here's some examples of valks in various modes with various armor sets

Splurge this week O_O

ARGH This little set is going to double the price of my Arcadia 19

I don't think anything will stop people from leaving the crotch in fighter position and just bringing the legs down. Dunno how much it will impact movement though.

It's not permanent. I can remove it and put it back on the regular stand whenever I want. I think I'm gonna make more of these mini stands so that I can reduce the clutter on my display shelf lol

On a side note, made a small stand adapter for my YF-25 so that I can have a low fighter mode display without the giant ugly stick. It's thermal form moldmaking material that's been formed around two plastic pegs for support and then molded by the stand slot itself. After cooling off I trimmed off all the extra for re-use elsewhere. Here are the results.

Six is enough. ENOUGh! >_<

At that point you minus well just buy the arcadia release. Even with the cheapest proxy fees at buyee that's around 24000 JPY before shipping

I would settle for a more mature Macross like Macross Plus or Macross Zero. No Moe, a darker feel and a main protagonist like Shin, Isamu or even Leon from Mac30.

Still very widely available near retail on Amazon.co.jp. Prices would end up being a lil higher if you use a proxy, so NY is still "cheaper" :0 http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/offer-listing/B00IP3H7S2/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&qid=1403790579&sr=8-1&keywords=yf-25&condition=new

Got three of them panel lined and displayed. Have 3 more in storage O_o. I love 2-seaters too much

Based on the dimensions from the macross mecha manual it's 29.78m x 24.42m x 6.77m, which in 1/60 translates to around : 49.6cm Length, 40.7cm wingspan and 11.2cm height. the length and width aren't really too killer. the footprint won't be different from most modern 1/32 fighter kits from Tamiya / Academy / Trumpeteer. However, with the main fuselage hitting ~11cm in thickness it would be pretty heavy. It could be a deadly weapon even I'd still buy one though the price would be pretty steep. It could easily cost more than 4-5 VF-25's

You can pop the knee cap off the shin armor super easily on the armored parts sets. It's just held on with some blue-tac in that pic

The pilots are not packaged in the plane, they are separate just like in every other VF-25 release. Can't wait till my 2nd and 3rd arrive then I can complete my VF-25 display case. Oh, if only I had some color-matched orange paint and a lance... Also, now the hard choice. Regular blue crotch (Just blue paint over white, i checked by shaving off some of the inside with a knife) VS White crotch from Alto

Mine came in today Looking nice. NO scratches on the lerx, but the blue line in the middle is not super clean on the edges.

if it really bothers you use the matching abs antennae for symmetry. If u use the long one you need to remove the cover on the other side (the extra cover is shown in the toys daily review, it's where the short antenna lies in fighter mode)

The YF-25 is NUNS so it gets the NUNS stand.

Yeah, I also built 6 of them on my own thus far. the only hard part is carrying the box up and down stairs, which is easily solved with a dolly.