Duymon

It's hard to believe that dragon was sculpted by the same guy behind the kick ass Club M 1/72 valks in the late 90's and the 1/48 ultimate O_o

no noseart

Hope things are well for ya Rosario. It's sad to see a part of pre-yammy Macrossworld go the way of the dodo :*( Hope things shape up for ya

FLIR's are a pod that allows pilots to see at night. LANTIRN is a like a FLIR + Targetting system for Air-to-Ground during night ops. IIRC LANTIRN on the f-16C's was 2 pods, one for navigating, one for targetting. I guess I'll steal some from my 1/72 hase weapon sets (think the one that has the JDAM's also has the LANTIRN units) I get the feeling the LANTIRN Targetting pod (the one with the swivelling head) is goin on the right side of the head and the FLIR on the left. Only concern... does the VF_1 really need an extra head-mounted FLIR in addition to the two nose-mounted ones?

d20 is a great system and the DnD 3.5 rules are totally fine as is. Anyone that can't handle 3.5 rules just isn't nerd enough. I mean, god me and my friends could handle the actual Table Top 2nd edition in grade school no problem () On a side note, d20 DOES have some stupid flaws that allow for insane min-maxing and making totally stupid out-of-whack characters. For example, 2-handed sword wielding rogues with amazingly high strength lol

All depends on what brand you're using. Tamiya is a big nono for me. It dries so fast that I've gotten streaks on the second stroke! Testors / model master acrylics require a lot of mixing to prepare them and even though they level out very well, but can only look consistent through an airbrush. If done througha brush on broad surfaces, flat/matte testors paints show a lot of slight silvering if you don't do it right. Oh, Testors also dries slow Mr. Hobby from GS is the BEST acrylic paint on earth! Only because it is thin, it self levels almost as well as future, and the pigment is just right so that even one thin coat is opaque. Unfortunately, Mr. Hobby also seems to be alcohol based and dries out almost as fast as Tamiya. You can get one great coat on and hope you don't miss a spot because if you do it'll show when you patch it up >_<.

Ok, so I've got 3 of the clear valks with the special model gfx decals and want to make a squadron of LV Valks with said decals. So I fire up Model GFX 2001 issue on MW and got a pretty good idea of how to paint the valk and all But then..out of nowhere... WHAM, it hits me! What the hell are those lil pods on the sides of the head?!?!? Can barely tell from the small pics. Anyone have an idea of what I can use? Perhaps they used Lantirn pod from a 1/72 weapon set and trimmed it down to look cool? O_o Gosh darn it now that I look at it more it's got largers Nose FlIR's and an elongated head... O_o.

ACK! Double post! Plz delete this thread

I'll be hoarding 25th valks just for the black heads to put on my stealth squadron

Feh, I'm just going to collect them all > I Mean, why the hell are people skimping on 20-dollar figs and then buying like 1 of every 100-200 dollar valks ;p

3 / 4 of my VF-1s's have floppy heads, and I bought none from Tisinc A little bit of epoxy and shortening of the screws seemed to magically fix that It's more of a build issue at Yammies Factory Imho.

Does that means Graham's seen the Yammy 1/60 YF-21 already? Tease

Carefully trimmed decals with a good setting solution are a start. I use Mr. Hobby decal set and haven't used anything else since. After all your decals are set, cover the valk in a thin clear coat and your decals will be there for ages

Tisinc99 has never let me down. Weird how other people got shafted by them O_o

When these suckers start coming out in MG I'm going to skip over the Good guys and collect the bad guys only lol. They actually look cooler

MInute they go for pre-order I'm getting them damnit. The new car can wait

There's a few milliputs but most hobby shops should stock milliput regular and milliput fine-grain. fine-grain may be a lil bit more but it works better for detail work and what-not. MIlliput actually cures hard and is sandable. Green stuff will be flexible even after curing and is a batty to sand. So stick with millput har har har. Even the regular Milliput is superior to green-stuff for this purpose.

It's looking good, though I gotta admit it's looks a little less intense than what Ryuji's doing since she'd butt-naked har har

Don't use the green-stuff from Games Workshop, it's far too flexible after cured and is a batty to sand. For filling you can never go wrong with Milliput. Get the fine-grain version, mix up a small batch, apply and let cure for a day. MIlliput rocks because i've never had trouble with it bonding to anything and it sands down smooth. Plus, you get a crapload more milliput per dollar than the over-priced green stuff

You can still get em at BBTS, don't know how long though

How big will its box be?

1. Looks better than the 1/72 in all 3 modes 2. Stable in all 3 modes 3. No assembly or design problems that require effort on the User Side to correct (ie DIY mods/repairs, ordering new parts) 4. No sloppy paint apps or off-center tampo printing If the 21 can't at least accomplish the 4 points listed above, then we'll have been yamatoed. And don't worry about the detachable limbs. If they're made of cheap Thin ABS plastic like on other yamatos they'll surely be detachable ......

A Yammy VF-1d would be so easy to make as Moscato has already proved (though if yammy made it we'd have a stiff canopy instead of a semi-soft one) Sadly, I'd only buy the YF-21, VF-11 and VT / VE

I dogged the LV2 until I owned one, then I saw how similiar the scheme was to Vietnam Era F-4 Phantom pics and started digging it. Now the LV2 is one of my favs O_o

All the VF's are pretty much the same now. Honestly, I like every paint scheme. Well... Except for the Angel Birds one.... I'm getting a 1d kit soon and will convert the Angelbirds into a custom 1D instead of having that eye-sore on my shelf.