wm cheng

If you're anal like me you can add losts to the AMT kit (which I feel is already the right shape - plus it has engraved panel lines!) In fact, I wasn't impressed with the FM kit, I find it a bit snubbish - the nose didn't seem long enough (IMHO).

Just my 2 cents, Hey the AMT 1/48ish isn't that bad, plus I feel its the perfect size, I just don't have the room for a 1/24 studio scale resin (plus something that big just begs for so much more detail ) Maybe its all the great memories I had when I was 8 building it for the first time, without paint, just stickers and zooming it all over the house for days! Yes, the pilot sucks, but if you get an cheapo Monogram 1/48 scale Apache kit, the pilot in that is pretty darn close to the rebel pilot, just add some big-ass black gloves and a chest box and you've got an excellent Rebel pilot. (I had some jpgs prepared 5-6 years back that I never bothered to post when I built this X-Wing)

I'd definitely like to know more about Yukikaze - man! I love their aircraft designs!

Great work - cool paint job!! Congrats on your new "model"! Guess we won't be seeing too many new models from you for a while

Hey! I want to try that game... do you get to be inside the cockpit looking out (1st person view) - all the screen shots I see you are outside, seeing yourself (3rd person view) Secondly, does it work with the Joystick/Throttle combination from Ace Combat 4? Thanks, Wm

Woohoo!! I'm so relieved that this is back... This is my most awaited kit for the Hasegawas!! And it looks like you've done a fantastic job with it! I am still hoping that I can modify it to use rare earth magnets to make the Valk removeable after construction. Is there still some type of metal re-inforcement inside the main struct? I'll take 2 or 3 (any deals Jesse? - I'd be happy to build one up and take some proper photos of it for your box or advertisment?! ) Thanks again!

E-mail sent!

ARGH!! just picked up the kit... and I don't even like the design much - but the bulked up version is nicer.. Man! Hasegawa certainly has milked me dry!!

Great build! Thanks for sharing rarityrader. Yep, I've been busy working like a dog! Haven't touched a kit since last fall - I've got cobwebs growing around my VF-1 & booster The film business has picked up a bit in T.O. (thank God!) and I am busy trying to make up for lost income. Plus we've been on our first March Break vacation since we bought the house - and I am working to hopefully get a car for myself! I can only "lurk" around here and live vicariously through you guys - keep up the great work! Thanks for thinking of me Brian... its nice to be noticed.

Excellent work John (as usual) Fantastic 3D interpretation of the lineart, with skills to match. I'm so glad you decide to take up the Macross Genre. Thanks again for a fantastic effort. Any clear parts planned (eyes and main display console) - maybe the main exterior eye could be casted in clear resin - so we can paint out the opaque bits leaving the horizontal slit inside clear red? I love the hatches that are removeable - what a great idea. Can the rear hatch be hinged to operate after construction? (might be a tall order for something of this scale - but you do work magic...) Keep up the great work. Thanks, Wm

Wow! They look amazing... I can't find it on HLJ - did they pull the item? Where can I order it online?

How much did you by your Konami set for?? You could buy just the ones you want? Pls post pictures with the boxes... any chance anyone can get some for me too?

Nooooo... I was so looking forward to the LV - I truely hope its not dead. Maybe if there was a way to reduce the costs - there would be more takers, the cost was a huge consideration for me. I would be in for one.

As some of you know around here - I still use my trusty old (20yrs old) Single Action Badger 200IL siphon feed. I learned on this brush - but just haven't had the need for upgrading. Single action is an excellent learning platform, and I could do pretty well everything I needed on it. Especially for modelling, there really isn't the need to vary the flow and thickness during a spray pass. Additionally, one should NEVER start or stop on the model - no matter how good the brush is, there will always be a chance of splatter at the start and stop points. I plan on upgrading to a dual-action sometime - but it has been my workhorse and only airbrush for all these years - and it does fine lines really well. Its really easy to clean and sprays almost everything I've thrown at it (with the proper thinning).

Well... wow, that's steep! - its time to bite the bullet - count me in if its under $300 all inclusive (and if I'm still working )

Hey Jesse, Wy don't you show us - give us some pictures!

Oh Man! That's great news!! I'd be in for 2 or 3 of whatever Hasegawa can throw at us - especially the fighters!!

I'm liking this... it looks like the Civic Si is returning to its former glory (200hp 16valve DOHC!) http://www.edmunds.com/news/autoshow/artic...08/page014.html http://www.hondanews.com/CatID2001?mid=200...037548&mime=asc

Wow AlphaHX - great photos, Are there any more photos? What's the site? I love them - great references.

Sure acrylics stick to styrene - its all I use (Tamiya). You might be confused with regular art store acrylics - never use anything not meant for modelling (maybe except for future, but I don't even use that stuff for clear-coats)! Hmm, 56F is kind of cold - I wonder if that together with an air can might result in lower than normal air-pressure - you know the lower the temperatures, the lower the compressed air pressure is inside the can. Additionally, there might be something going on in the differences in air temperatures between indoor and out, if you're home is 70F and you take it out to the garage, the plastic may not cool down to 56F by the time you spray it, conversely, it you take in cold plastic after its sprayed into a warm house, it may condensate slightly which works against the paint drying. Try to airbrush at room temperature whenever possible. Humidity is probably not a factor at colder temperatures as it tends to be drier. You mention a pebbly surface - if its kind of like an orange-peel effect, it maybe because the gloss paint is too thick - or you are spraying in too thick of coats. Try thinning it more and spraying lighter thinner coats. Try switching to spraying flat or semi-gloss paints, it goes on much more smoothly, then spray a clear-coat in gloss to get the finish you want - that's what I do - I hardly ever spray gloss paints anymore - too picky and not enough coverage. Flat white is 5X better at covering dark spots (ie: putty) than gloss white of the same brand. Good Luck, Wm