wm cheng

Great build! Thanks for sharing rarityrader. Yep, I've been busy working like a dog! Haven't touched a kit since last fall - I've got cobwebs growing around my VF-1 & booster The film business has picked up a bit in T.O. (thank God!) and I am busy trying to make up for lost income. Plus we've been on our first March Break vacation since we bought the house - and I am working to hopefully get a car for myself! I can only "lurk" around here and live vicariously through you guys - keep up the great work! Thanks for thinking of me Brian... its nice to be noticed.

Excellent work John (as usual) Fantastic 3D interpretation of the lineart, with skills to match. I'm so glad you decide to take up the Macross Genre. Thanks again for a fantastic effort. Any clear parts planned (eyes and main display console) - maybe the main exterior eye could be casted in clear resin - so we can paint out the opaque bits leaving the horizontal slit inside clear red? I love the hatches that are removeable - what a great idea. Can the rear hatch be hinged to operate after construction? (might be a tall order for something of this scale - but you do work magic...) Keep up the great work. Thanks, Wm

Wow! They look amazing... I can't find it on HLJ - did they pull the item? Where can I order it online?

How much did you by your Konami set for?? You could buy just the ones you want? Pls post pictures with the boxes... any chance anyone can get some for me too?

Nooooo... I was so looking forward to the LV - I truely hope its not dead. Maybe if there was a way to reduce the costs - there would be more takers, the cost was a huge consideration for me. I would be in for one.

As some of you know around here - I still use my trusty old (20yrs old) Single Action Badger 200IL siphon feed. I learned on this brush - but just haven't had the need for upgrading. Single action is an excellent learning platform, and I could do pretty well everything I needed on it. Especially for modelling, there really isn't the need to vary the flow and thickness during a spray pass. Additionally, one should NEVER start or stop on the model - no matter how good the brush is, there will always be a chance of splatter at the start and stop points. I plan on upgrading to a dual-action sometime - but it has been my workhorse and only airbrush for all these years - and it does fine lines really well. Its really easy to clean and sprays almost everything I've thrown at it (with the proper thinning).

Well... wow, that's steep! - its time to bite the bullet - count me in if its under $300 all inclusive (and if I'm still working )

Hey Jesse, Wy don't you show us - give us some pictures!

Oh Man! That's great news!! I'd be in for 2 or 3 of whatever Hasegawa can throw at us - especially the fighters!!

I'm liking this... it looks like the Civic Si is returning to its former glory (200hp 16valve DOHC!) http://www.edmunds.com/news/autoshow/artic...08/page014.html http://www.hondanews.com/CatID2001?mid=200...037548&mime=asc

Wow AlphaHX - great photos, Are there any more photos? What's the site? I love them - great references.

Sure acrylics stick to styrene - its all I use (Tamiya). You might be confused with regular art store acrylics - never use anything not meant for modelling (maybe except for future, but I don't even use that stuff for clear-coats)! Hmm, 56F is kind of cold - I wonder if that together with an air can might result in lower than normal air-pressure - you know the lower the temperatures, the lower the compressed air pressure is inside the can. Additionally, there might be something going on in the differences in air temperatures between indoor and out, if you're home is 70F and you take it out to the garage, the plastic may not cool down to 56F by the time you spray it, conversely, it you take in cold plastic after its sprayed into a warm house, it may condensate slightly which works against the paint drying. Try to airbrush at room temperature whenever possible. Humidity is probably not a factor at colder temperatures as it tends to be drier. You mention a pebbly surface - if its kind of like an orange-peel effect, it maybe because the gloss paint is too thick - or you are spraying in too thick of coats. Try thinning it more and spraying lighter thinner coats. Try switching to spraying flat or semi-gloss paints, it goes on much more smoothly, then spray a clear-coat in gloss to get the finish you want - that's what I do - I hardly ever spray gloss paints anymore - too picky and not enough coverage. Flat white is 5X better at covering dark spots (ie: putty) than gloss white of the same brand. Good Luck, Wm

You need to be a little more specific. If you've got pictures of it on the model - that would be best - but its a little vague to diagnose right now. What do you mean by droplets? Is it really humid where you work? Do the paint beed up into droplets on the surface of the plastic? Is it plastic you are spraying onto? It could be release agents on the model that wasn't properly scrubbed off or greasy fingerprints. Are they droplets in the air - then it could be low air-pressure - are they sputtering or creating a splattering pattern on the model - all indicative of low air-pressure or partially clogged airbrush nozzle. Lastly, you mentioned that you stir the paint with the back of the brush handle? Why, you should use the actual brush, it will mix it much more thoroughly. Good Luck.

Welcome back Devin, I hope all is well again... I'm so sorry to hear about your troubles. I hope we can help. The end of 2004 and the begining of 2005 hasn't been a great year overall, too many negative things have happened to us all - lets hope for a brighter future. Looking forward to more great work, Take care.

Yes, anyway of convicing Shawn to retrieve a few of my step-by-steps from the old boards too - I'd be happy to put them together if we can get them back.

Hey Jesse, I'd be happy to contribute any of my built pictures to this very worthwhile endeavour - just let me know what you need from me. Unfortunately I don't have much in the way of rare kits, but I do have the Hasegawa photo etched part on your list and I'd be happy to help. Hey! whats this about Platz doing a PE part for VF-0 & SV-51??

I hope it doesn't go to a major network - although while ensuring funding, it would just water it down to be consumable by the stupid masses. The more execs that get their hands involved - the more directions and personal egos BSG needs to absorb - thus creating a rambling comittee runned story lines instead of a singular vision which most sucessful show requires. Smaller cable shows can be edgier and push the envelop - creating a fresh re-interpretation which I fear BSG may loose if it goes to the major networks.

Well, it depends how much of a stickeler for details you are. As I said, the side consoles are devoid of any controls whatsoever - they are a green armrest (according to the TV lineart). So all my side console controls are made up. However, the front console is molded and decals are provided by Hasegawa for the DYRL version, not the TV version - so no HUD. Its easier to do the DYRL version since thats what the Hasegawas are based on. The canopy frame latch lugs are pretty accurate to the lineart. Also, there are no yellow & black emergency handles on the seat that I have added.

Last one... I would be less timid on the weathering (especially after the VF-0) the next time I build one of these again. I can't wait to get back onto the VF-1 + Booster!!

Oh, yeah, there's a paperclip (non-corrugated kind) holding up the canopy - the real metal shows up well as an hydraulic actuator.

Boy... I haven't looked at these shots in years... This one shows off the bits in the canopy frame well.