wm cheng

Here's the nosecone forward fuselage - the part I spend the most time sanding. The nose seam has to be perfect - its the thing most people (incl me) see first on the model. I followed the same technique as most of my other pieces - put a little more than needed tube cement on the seams so that some of it oozes out (becareful to not put too much - otherwise the cement may continue to melt the styrene and cause sink depressions) and paint the seam with Mr. Surfacer 1000. I sand down until the entire seam dissapears and that you can run your fingernails across the seam and its perfectly smooth. I then washed the assembly, decaled the pilot and cockpit control panels and gave both a bit of white dry-brushing to highlight the details (I did a dark wash last year that picked out the crevices). I'm not going to go overboard on this, since I intend to keep the canopy closed, and with the distortions in the canopy, not real details can be seen. Ok, I've started to cut corners on the cockpit... I rather spend the time on detailing the rest of the Boosters. And yes I know, its the wrong pilot - I'm a bit impatient, and I've really been wanting to see this Booster kit on my display shelf for over a year now - so I thought if I corrected the pilot for the TV-version, that itself could take a week or at least a few days - plus sculpting such small collars is not my strong point anyways. Plus I like the DYRL pilot suits so much better than the disco collars!

Here's the same seam after sanding (notice that I took most of the Mr. Surfacer off - its almost used as a marker for me, especially on white plastic of how far I still have to sand down to the seam). I'm using the Hasegawa PE micro saws to "re-etch" the circular panel lines that have been lost due to the sanding

Here's the gun pod - originally glued together last year (with excessive glue so that it oozes out to fill in minor seams) plus I "painted" Mr. Surfacer 1000 to make sure its all sealed in. I intend to use that Alclad metalizer here, and its very unforgiving - any blemishes and it shows!

Hmm, the new boards handles attachments differently now (is there a way to get it to show like the old way - instead of clicking on them and having them open in a new window?) or do you guys prefer this way? Anyways, the arms are show below, with the left before the sanding (a little overkill on the tamiya putty - but there are some severe elevational differences sometimes especially with flat parts) and the right after sanding (you see most of it is sanded away, but there are a few sink holes that remain) (ohh, I like this multiple attachments)

Hey everybody - I'm back... Hopefully I'll have enough time between jobs to finish this baby (after a year long hiatus!) Man! it feels good to be building again... - first day back, kinda rusty, so I just kind of kept to sanding - to get back into the goove again. I'll keep posting to this thread (until this section closes down - I hope that when that happens Roy could move it over to the appropriate thread and PM me about it). This shot shows the corrugated "fencing" I put in (with styrene bought from a local train hobby store - comes in sheets) so that you don't see into the fuselage. I originally fitted the Valkryie against the booster packs to get a tracing of the swing wing's inner most swing extents to get the line to glue these styrene strips to. I was too cheap to use the PE parts that Hasegawa provides for this area.

Sorry, that baby was way before I even knew about MW or did any build ups. I have a few works in progress snaps if you're interested.

Hey Chad, Great minds think alike!! (fools seldom differ ) Nice car! I too love it (originally I just loved the look of the thing - but now having been on the track, I can't believe how it handles!) Don't you love the type68 M-rims, I was hoping to get a set of replicas for my winter tires too (can't afford the BMW OEMs again - luckily they came with the car) I also prefer the pre-facelifted headlights like ours - they look more M3 like. Yeah, I was thinking of getting body coloured reflectors too - but with the OEM clears I had on the cars already, I'm in no hurry yet (plus there's all these new Macross goodies, GBP, VF-0S and the FM M.Falcon - I've gotta watch my spending). Plus I need winter tires & wheels in the next few months! I thought about getting the BMW OEM rear spoiler for our car though (not the M3 lip) its quite unusual, very few people have it, plus its understated without being too pimp (maybe next year)

Come-on Captn! I'm pulln' for the Booster Launch Vehicle!

Hey will they release a version with both the parts and a VF-1J? or do we have to purchase them separately?

Hey Grayson, I got a 328Ci with all the bells and whistles! Man I love this car! http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?...=1420&p=328130& Hey EXO, I know I just posted to it - I was referring to Roy's pinned thread at the top of this thread. I just know I won't bother to submit a full report after I'm done (I'll forget what I did in the early steps). I keep getting bugged by ARC or Starship modeller to submit for years (but I never get around to it). It was just easy here (at least it was...) Oh well, maybe we'll get a wider audience at the general model forums.

very nice, how much did you pay? i have been seriously looking at the BMW M-series and the 5-series. maybe i can someday soon join you on the track. chris 327996[/snapback] Its a 2000 328Ci with all sports pkg upgrades, new brakes, rotors, rims & 17" staggard setup - I got it for just under 30K canadian with the remainder of the factory warranty till Dec of this year (its a BMW Certified Pre-Owned from the dealer). Its a little more because of the immaculate condition and the CPO (the previous owner only had 78,000km on it and drove it so little that the on-board computer didn't even require a Inspection II till 100,000km) - although I am changing that with the way I'm driving it I got it on the 1.9% financing - look for it, its quite reasonable if you can find a good CPO. An new M3 would be over 80K!

Hi all, Its been a busy summer - and my new "baby" (newish BMW) has taken all my time and resources. With fall approaching and winter inevitable - I look forward to cuddling up with MW What's this with the "How to Build" forum closing down? Where should I post any future progress builds? (if I ever find the time again... ) I can't really submit a finished step-by-step (it would take so much time to compile it all in the end, I'd rather start another one if I had that kind of time) - I do it as I build along (its much less painful that way), and I do it for the feedback I get from the kind folks here - often suggesting different ways of solving my problems as I build them. A submission is a "one-way" conversation at the end with me "talking" at you. I don't want to do that. Plus I enjoy following along your builds when I'm at work and don't have time to build anything myself. My 2-cents!

Hey all, Just returned from my first track with my newish BMW - I'm hooked! This new baby has eaten into my Macross time this summer - but with Winter approaching, I'll cuddle up with MW again... I promise...

Hey fellow William! Looking forward to your bases. Personally, I'd prefer a bit more slope (chamfer) on the base but without the four rectangular tabs - I prefer a cleaner look. As for models, check out some of my previous threads; http://www.macrossworld.com/mwf/index.php?showtopic=691 Unfortunately the first few (with a *) are on the older boards and are not yet accessible - but the ones further down are here. I'd start with a YF-19 or YF-21, I think they were the easiest and yielded the best results with minimal effort. Always good to hook new Macross modellers!

Silvering occurs when there are tiny bubbles that occur between the decal and the surface the decal lays on. When a flat finish is applied, the flat coat is actually microscopically full of ridges and bumps (thus scattering the light and elminating reflections which appear glossy). The clear (or yellowed if old) carrier film lays over this rough surface and air bubbles are formed beneath making the film stand out against a dark background. MicroSET (vinegar like) softens the decals so that it may conform to irregularities in surface easier. MicroSOL (solvent like) almost melts the decals into the paint or surface irregularities (use with extreme caution - it can dessolve the decal to the point where you can't handle it without wreaking it). So these decal softeners can allow the decal to conform to rough surfaces thereby reducing the amount of bubbles beneath the carrier film. I always trim as much as I can off the carrier film - even with the NO-STEP & DANGER, I trim as close to them as possible. Future or any other gloss-coat merely smooths over the surface (when a surface its glossy - it reflects all the light back at the viewer, creating reflections) so the microscopic surface is smooth - providing a better surface for the decal to adhere to (less bubbles are trapped) As I said before, I only decal over a semi-gloss surface and it seems fine. However, keep in mind that if you decal on a light background, any silvering is harder to see than decalling over a dark background. Decalling is a black art - you learn by feel & experience. Don't worry, take it slow. Generally the thinner the decal, the better - but also much harder to handle and takes a lot less decal softeners or solvents to apply.

DEFINITELY!!

Hey Ido, Yes, I decal over a semi-gloss clear-coat. I usually trim the decal carrier film as close to the actual decal as possible - so you can't see the film. Secondly, I also use MicroSOL or MicroSET as a decal softener - which makes the decals much thinner and conform to tight curves or panel lines. You have to becareful with using this stuff as it make the decals extremely fragile. A good beginners thing to use is MicroSET (its less strong) and place the decals with water as you normally would getting it into the final position - then at the end, dab the edges of the decal with MicroSET from a brush - this helps to seal just the edges down onto the paint and helps to prevent silvering. Silvering only occurs on the carrier film, when its over a dark surface that has a flat finish on it - so avoid that. Good Luck!

Hey I'm from Toronto too! I believe there are a few others too; Dangard Ace, Valkyrie Beggar & Jung (but I've never met any of them)

Its fantastic to hear more people getting into modelling again - it really is a dying art. Don't be discouraged - you can get all sorts of help here and on the internet. 1- How many models did you screwed up before complete a decent model kit? I've been building since I was 10yrs old - took a long hiatus during University, but still to this day (26yrs later), I have yet to complete a model I didn't screw up on! Eveyone one I've done, something goes wrong - and everytime I see them, I can pick out exactly what's wrong with each one of them. I've just come to the conclusion that I can't ever build a perfect model - its just how you deal with the mistakes that count. 2- Do you always put gloves on when you handle painted pieces? Gloss pieces are also a problem for me. Humidity has a lot to do with how fast certain gloss-coats dry, and I'm always impatient, so I always end up touching it or playing with it before I should No I don't use gloves most of the time, although I am trying to when I do remember to. I try to time the painting of major surfaces at the end of the day or night, so I will let the model dry un-disturbed overnight. It is a common problem for most of us, the glossy clear coats are softer to begin with - but I haven't really had too much need for glossy coats - I usually decal on a semi-gloss surface, it wears better. 3- How do you clean copleted models when they get dusty I'm lazy, I don't really clean them too much But a clean brush usually works. 4- Its good if the next try will be an hasegawa vf-1 or you suggest something simplier to do? I'd experiment on cheaper easier to obtain models before starting on the Macross items - unless they are plentiful and cheap where you are. You can get experience from anything - but it should be worth your time and important to you. Don't just build to experiment. My biggest learning experiences are from mistakes on precious models where I have little choice but to repair my screw up. If you don't care about it, then its too easy to drop it when you screw up and miss a learning opportunity. Good Luck!

Great idea Chad! A CD size would be great - I'd personally love to see a clear polished acrylic disc 4-5 inches in diameter by 3/4" thick. The Macross kite logo (without any lettering) would be etched in reverse (maybe 3/8" thick) on the underside (to be seen from above through the clear material). This way we have a flat top to allow aircraft or battroid to sit flat on, but we still have a 3D kite logo to be seen from above, but all would be done out of clear acrylic so it won't detract/draw attention away from the model itself or require finishing. I'd take 4 or 5! All we need is a 1/4" dia. clear acrylic rod!

Nice kits! Hey Mechleader, nice work, but can I just say, that the inner flaps on the low-viz Valkyrie only goes down (all flaps only goes down - unless its a "flaperon" / flap/aileron) - in fact the Valkryie has Flowler Flaps, which means not only do they drop, they extend out the back then drop. The ailerons towards the outer edges of the wing can extend up or down to turn the aircraft. Please don't take my comments in a bad way, the kit looks great, it just doesn't look right to plane buffs Hey Electric Indigo - cool design! what is a Delphinus 3C - it looks like the same guys that designs Yukikaze... I'd like to see more of this series' art work.

I usually just use liquid masking fluid to mask the entire thing and also use it to "glue" the canopy down - on really stubborn fits, I sometimes use a dab of white glue, since its removeable later.

Yay! Jesse... Totally understandable... life! what a distraction from Macross!! Glad to hear things are still on - rather wait a bit longer to have it done properly than have it rushed through half-assed. I'm so looking forward to this... Take care.

FANTASTIC!! Very nice - that's exactly what I wanted to do, right beside the VF-0S! It looks great - maybe the panel wash is a little on the dark side for the non-moveable surfaces - but you did a fantastic job with the kit. I hope to build mine some day. Thanks for sharing GunnerX (how about one with all three together, F-14, VF-0 & VF-1S) Now you've got to get a F-18F and a F-4 with the Jolly Rogers (never ends...) p.s. you know there's a new Eduard photo-etched set out for the Hase F-14 that includes PE parts for the ends of the missle racks that shows the exposed launch rails - very cool indeed.

I'd save the PE parts for when you want to display the canopy open without the pilot in. The pilot takes up quite a lot of space (you can't really see around the pilots arms to the side consoles anyways. The pilot's hands already have a partial stick molded onto them as though they are gripping them already.