HWR MKII

hey promethium you havent posted in a while. i was wondering how your latest work was?

i use a revell/germany dual action internal mix airbrush and have had good results.see examples on my 1/16 tigers in the background of my arii destroid monster build thread. i use an inexpensive testors compressor that has a valve for adjusting the outgoing air pressure for different tips and lines. the airbrush comes with fine point and standard needles and tips. its worth the money in my book and can be found online anywhere. total cost for both the brush and compressor is around 225 USD new.

tamiya is acrylic so it will be difficult to get the paint to wash in the lines without beading up the best thing i found is to do a 50/50 mix flat to gloss mix of testors enamel black and thin it to your preference. then take a fine point brush and tap it to the lines and details. if its done correctly the paint should flow through the detail and color it with ease. try to use tamiya and polly scale paints for your base coats since acrylic paints wont turn to mud when thinner is put on them. as for fillers and gaps i use squadron white putty. most hobby shops carry it or the green version and the stuff works well.

one way to do a series is to take all the post jedi books and cut them into one hour long segments. with over 50+ books there wont be a shortage of episodes and they mostly use already accepted designs. yes the effects budget is huge but through the expanded universe character, vehicle and weapon books not to mention planet books < the design budget will be minimal since most of what is needed is already there. i say go for it just get a good director and producer and let the origional actors appear for cameos in episodes where they arent main characters like han did in rouge squadron.

ALPHONSE! anyway the series rocks including WXIII. well done animation and mood. unlike alot of other mech anime the mechs only have a total of about 5 minutes screen time in each movie give or take a few minutes. i love the kits as well very clean and aside from the clear headpiece over the "eye" pretty true to line art.

no problem theres a section in how to just for this stuff too so if you know something cool for doing something on a kit feel free to post.

i second grahms notion of a book while traveling. they dont run out of batteries and people wont steal them. the system seems cool but it just sems out of place to release such a thing right now for nintendo or sony. dont our cell phones and palm pilots do enough and make enough noise to annoy others around us or keep us busy. that and theres no macross games on them as far as i know

no need to close it he can resize them and then reedit the post with the new size pics id like to see his work. but it could be moved to how to along with my arii destroid page please. i didnt see that how to existed when i created it

i usually use primer. just dont use a spray can on a hase kit you could lose the detail under it if it goes ontoo thick. airbrush it if you can.

well done and clean as well. the one drawback on chrome is seams though its the only think that has kept me fron getting the chrome kit were those seams. now that i have seen one built i may have to invest in one. maybe the hase VF1S strike. keep up the work. need to see more.

can i fly it. can i fly it. the thing looks like you can hop in and take off. CF or not its great. excellent balance on weathering sometimes acft models have too much or not enough. you have pulled it off great. makes me want to do a 48 scale version using the resin cast kit. need the money and time got 2 rc tanks to build up first. keep it up.

ive never been exact on my ratios. its a thing you pick up after you use it enough.humbrol paints can be tricky sometimes. especially the gloss paints . the best thing you could do is do a small test mix and record the ratios you use. once it sprays out how you like keep that ratio as the one you use. different colors may require different ratios as well . you may thin black out more than white.

sorry there havent been any new pics lately ive gotten promoted in rank and havent had much time for anything outside of work. also my wife broke the batt connector for my laptop so i havent been able to get my pics online. a new charger is on the way so i hope to have some new posts up soon

hey ido where exactly are you? the only place ive been where humbrol is the main available paint is the UK. from my experience though lord is correct. if your brush painting humbrol enamels take your time. if your airbrushing them and cant get a smooth finish then try adding a little more thinner. dont add too much or the paint will be too runny. if the paint is the correct texture and its still coming out grainy on the model try reducing your air pressure a bit. other than that i cant think of any other way to get enamels to come out really smooth aside from taking time

the tbirds have always eventually replaced their acft with the newest and most agile acft to show off the latest thing at their shows. it wont be soon but it will happen. even the blue angles do it. they went from the extremely agile a4 to the 18 . the birds will eventually do the same once the fighter is in service. im not saying they are going to do it in the next 2 years. the acft isnt even in full service yet. i just think it would be an interesting model to see since were on the subject of actual acft in macross schemes. i just used the tbird for a reference , not fact, to give someone ideas

it would be interesting to see one done up in angel birds colors too since the T-birds will be replacing the 16 with the 22 for the demo team acft

excellent work. reminds me of that A10 that got shot up in the first gulf war. it made it back to base missing half a wing almost! im wsure a VF-1 even a CF one could sustain that damage without losing alot of combat performance. i love the weathering and soot smudges. actual aircraft are that dirty in real life too. some of the color markings on US acft are actually thick stickers that have a clear paint slathered over them and also start to show a ring where dirt builds up around the paint thickness almost exactly like your decals do.it happens alot to F-16s stationed in phoenix AZ. so sometimes it can work to leave the decal film on. keep it going its good to see a brownie done up with the quality of a VF-1S or YF-19.

anytime you use a postal system in any countryits a crapshoot. i had built an AAv7 (its a marine corps apc) for my brother. it had a full interior and applique armor all scratch built with a crew and a tow missile team hummer. mailed it to hawaii after packing it really well. i got it back from him a month later and basically the postal system had delivered it to him back in its kit form. i was p!@@#d off like you would not believe. when i got the box back it looked like someone had played soccer with it. this was the US postal system by the way there were footprints on the box and 2 punctures. all in all if you mail something worth alot to you or have something mailed to you make sure you have insurance taken out. that way if something gets ruined you get your moneys worth out of the system that messed it up. but anytime you mail something its a risk so you can expect the occasional brain fart from some inept employee(not that all postal workers are inept) and packages will get damaged. i have to agree wth the time and package quality of HLJ though it takes a long time and sometimes the package could have been done better. the item was ok but the boxes for the item were in sorry shape.

the swing wing 22 looks a little like a stealthed twin tail F111. the 111 was designed for the navy and turned out to be too heavy for carrier use(like the 14 it was needed to carry the huge phoenix missile) and given to the air force.it would have been a weird twist of fate to take an AF designed acft and turn it into a navy acft. oh yeah it happened the YF17 (now the F18 hornet) was the competition for the role the 16 got.

thank you king. and actually the thread died a few pages ago when it switched from VF1 in top gun to which units were active or beconing deactivated or where they were stationed or what they were flying.

does anyone have a set of the decals for a club m 1/48 strike valk kit? im going to srtip and refurbish mine and need a replacement set. any help would be nice. are the decals at valk exch waterslide or stickers?thanks sean

bleache white wont strip your skin after 2 minutes fo exposure either. its a concentrated version of the cleaner used in formula 409 cleaner and spray on oven cleaners. i stiripped down a 1/9 scale ED209 droid from robocop and had it repainted in 2 days. the base grey for the model was auotmotive primer and the stuff came right off. there was no need for chisles and sanding or even rescribing lines that the paint didnt come out of. im thinking of debonding the glue on my 48 scale club m VF1 strike and stripping it down. im not happy with how the paint turned out on it at all. i just need a copy of the decal sheet.

id try testors or poly scale gunship grey it has a blue hue to it that is effective without looking too blue. i used it on my 1/48 strike kit and it looks good

some of te pinup style girls would look beautiful on destroids. i could see a crew putting a larger version of the reclining girls on the missile arms of a monster. or some kneeling girls on the shins of a tomahawk or mech with a similar leg shape. excellent work. sean