nightmareB4macross

WM, It really amazes me how well you take very clear pictures and narrate the build so well. It is consistent with you expertise of building. Your posts are like a great story, can't wait to turn to the next page. Keep up the great job.

...sounds more like an unhealthy obsession... As far as this not being a fun hobby, I still think it is.

That's an easy enough questions to answer. Just because. Eventhough, you know you will never be able to build all those wonderful kits, it's still nice to know you have them. It's just like the toy-collectors, you will buy and buy toys, but eventually will never be able to play with all of them.

That was me. Plastikote & Fusion

Datterboy, You got my interest. How are you going to make the dyes permeate through the plastic and resin? Resin is colored using pigments that are blended in prior to mixing the control substrate with the catalyst. I'm not sure how plastic is colored, but it could be a related process. Wouldn't a pressure cooker create so much heat that it will actually melt or warp the parts?

why... unless your offering to give me head 343526[/snapback] I think this thread just took a wrong turn.

Or get on the shoulders of A1.

I couldn't disagree more. I own somethin' like 8 of 'em and they're one step above crap for the most part. It's impossible to transform one of these thing without having to hunt down a screw cover. The backpacks are shifty. My elintseeker can't stand in Battloid mode unless it looks like it's trying to simulate some Michael Jackson move. The GERWALK mode is just a byproduct of the fact it can trasnform into battloid mode. The legs in GERWALK are mismatched at best. The head sculpt of the 1S is a shame more than a "compromise" of design. The legs are awkward, transformation is clunky, and did I mention the stupid preponderance of screw covers that come off with a strong breeze? No sir, the only thing that makes the 1/60 good is the number of variations. I own them all to support my display cases but would never recommend them. People bash the MPC religiously but I think I would recommend them over the 1/60. (Obviously I would tell people to just hold their money for a 1/48 over either) 341573[/snapback] The 1/60s are not all that bad. They have their silver linings. I personally like the 1/60s as these can swooped, barrel rolled and what have you, around any room of your house, without fear of breaking them. As for recommending the MPC, well to each his own. 1/60, 1/48, MPC...all have their strong and weak points. Personally, 1/55 is the way to go for me. 1/55 is KING. 1/48 is a handsome prince. 1/60 is a noble squire. MPC is nothing more than a jester. NB4M

Awesome work!!! I would love to see the Invid doing more maneuvers.

Ok, EXO. You have to bring that over, tonight. NO EXCUSES!!!

You misunderstood, they really said "that cheap old bastid."

Leg parts different??? I've never noticed that unless you mean with bootlegs, which don't normally have as much metal. Primary diference between jetfires is matsushiro or bandai. Matsu had slightly different head lasers and said "matsushiro" on the back plate on the reinforcing bar. Earlier bandais had "bandai" the same spot matsushiro had been. Later bandai's has bandai in a box below the reinforment bar on the back plate. The diference between a vf and a jetfire is more complex. The nose cone of a vf is narrower than jetfires "child safe" blunted nose. Other than that the only difference would be the head and neck plate depending on which vf. Keep in mind I say this comparing jetfire only to matsu, bandai, and takatoku. The two exceptions are different wings on the seeker and ostrich. with bootlegs the differences can be more extreme... From plastic instead of metal parts, mis-assembly, different screws, inferior head lasers, etc. As a rule parts can be swapped between all the boxed bootlegs fairly readily. I wouldn't recomened trying anything with the carded bootlegs. I haven't tried using mpc parts yet... anybody have a busted mpc they want to let me experiment with? which boot did you get? I should have specified that $40 was for boxed boot's... I have yet to see carded one worth more than $10... barely. U can use the boosters off one on a real vf with a little work... but they are still crappy boosters at best. 340614[/snapback] Actually, there are various differences between all the makes listed above... - The back pack, has panel lines on the top (jet mode), it varies between makes. Some Bandais have it others don't - The back plate, there are three rectangular acces panels on the back, the smallest one sometimes does and sometimes does not have three lines going through it. - Some have tabs in sandwiched in the wing sweep area that allows a full forwad sweep or a limited sweep. -On the chestplate, the two small tapeziods are different depending on the maker. Sometimes the maker retools these and the shapes are varied by size and angle. -Rear landing gear covers, both legs, sometimes the covers are molded with eigth dots on the inside, or one big divet. -Above the black part on the knees, some have two trapeziods, others don't. There are other minor details...I could go on and on.

I hear you, I made the same arrangement with my wife. Guess there's going to be a change of plans. I hope.

- | - | Man, it sure is funny when that happens. Post all the pics and then see your own mistakes.

Try using Armour All (car interior protectant). Spray it lightly on a paper towel and rub it on softly. After you have finished completey rubbing the valk down, just leave it for about a day and a half. Not only will this UV protectant help keep your paint from remaining sticky it will also giveit a nice clean look. I tried this on a STRIKE, VE-1, and VT-1...worked like a charm. Plus, I think it smells nice too. BTW- It will not leave a heavy or greasy film. Just remember to wipe it down and leave it alone, as previously described.

Same here. That is the carded version, I think most people are talking about. I honestly think there was never a red 1A boxed joons.

I think not much modification needs to be done, but we need to check on this.

FYI, the Taiwan Super also came in a grey variant, I have one. 340157[/snapback] Cool. I've never seen one of those in grey. I'll add it to the list.

What so unusual about this? 340158[/snapback] I never thought that even on your first completed transactions that it would show up as a negative (sign).

You really do need to see the contents of the book. It is definitely worth that and more.

Just updating the list of 1/55s. Since Kanata67 posted his 1/100, I added all the 1/100 at the bottom of list.

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So that's what happens when the Zentradi capture a CF. Burn, baby, burn!!!

Your thread is very addictive...I can't wait to see what coming up next. Excellent work as always!!!. Are you planning to lightly spray the wings leading edges in white. I think the extra clean aluminum contrast is too much when overviewing the valk with the boosters on.

Well if the pilot is cut in a certain way I think it can be done, but these would require metal pins to keep this pilot together. They can be shipped as kits. Assembling these things would be a nightmare due to the actual size of the pilots. I think that just using crazy glue would do the job just fine. The customizer can glue them in any static pose of their choice.